I've got a 383 with world product S/R torquer heads (2.02/1.60).
This cam:
BrandLunatiManufacturer's Part Number60102LKPart TypeCamshaft and Lifter KitsProduct LineLunati Voodoo Cam and Lifter KitsSummit Racing Part NumberLUN-60102LKUPC090127606742Cam StyleHydraulic flat tappetBasic Operating RPM Range1,400-5,700Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift219Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift227Duration at 050 inch Lift219 int./227 exh.Advertised Intake Duration262Advertised Exhaust Duration268Advertised Duration262 int./268 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio0.468 in.Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio0.489 in.Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio0.468 int./0.489 exh.Lobe Separation (degrees)112Computer-Controlled CompatibleNoLifters IncludedYesLifter StyleHydraulic flat tappetValve Springs IncludedNoRetainers IncludedNoLocks IncludedNoValve Stem Seals IncludedNoTiming Chain and Gears IncludedNoAssembly Lubricant IncludedNoPushrods IncludedNoRocker Arms IncludedNoGaskets IncludedNoValve Springs RequiredYesQuantitySold as a kit.


Performer eps intake
hooker shorties
no cats

Runs ok now but I'm sure theres more power in it. It's the 1406 carb. I have the tuning kit.
Plugs are fairly tan now, but some white on half of it.

Anybody got any tips or knowledge of what jets/rods would be best for me?

 

I have not messed with one in several years but I remember the 1406 being setup slightly leaner than the other performer carbs. My first move would be to go up one step from the current rods and see how it is.

 

as much as i used ot be against holleys a 650 double pumper is what u want end of story check craigslist they are cheap as hell

 

Set the advance curve on the distributor before you do anything. Then start with the stock tune, and follow the directions in the Edelbrock owner's manual. They've got the process spelled out about as simply as it gets.

 

Nah the Edelbrock might be on the small side but will deliver better overall drivability.

 

Maybe in the future I will try a holley, but for now I want to stick with this and try to get it tuned.

My distributor is recurved with the lightest springs.

I looked at the owners manual and the chart just showed rod changes in the graph. The richest rod was too rich, I have the next size leaner in now and it runs better. Should my next step be to up 1 jet size?

What makes the biggest difference, a rod change or jet?

 

The chart shows both rod and jet changes. Neither makes a bigger change than the other, they're complimentary.

How are you determining you're too rich?

 

Well when I had the richest rods in, it stumbled at 4-5,000 rpm. I swapped it 1 step lower and it pulled much smoother through the rpm's. So I was guessing it was too rich.

1 thing that is weird and has happened multiple times is I will give full throttle in 2nd gear and it pulls then feels lk it hits nitrous. All the sudden INSTANTLY it pulls noticeably harder.

Also, I've been looking at my plugs to try to guage the a/f ratio.

 

I tried every part under the sun with my 1406 and I couldn't get rid of the stumble from the air valve.

Sold it years ago for a double pumper.

 

Well I've got the stumble gone besides that rare "bump" but hopefully im gettin a free dyno friday and I will see my A/F plot so that will help.

 

Well, I got a free dyno yesterday and was not impressed with the results. I was looking to see my A/F reading but unfortunately the machine was broken.
You guys would expect more from my combo right?
228hp @ 4200
338tq @ 2500-3000

 

that does seem a little low for what you have. Id check your total timing should be around 32-36 total, and that pulling hard in 2nd you described is the motor leaning out Id say the secondarys are opening late.

 

I've got the total timing set at 34 right now. we checked it right before we dyno'd it. I guess I will take a look at a plug or 2 to see how the color looks. Not sure how else I can tell A/F without a guage.

 

I had issues with mine and after multiple rod and jet changes, I found out that the biggest factor in my case at WOT and heavy part throttle was the springs- I needed a stiffer spring in my case.

Like was said above, follow the 'destruction' manual to a 'T'.

 

I read up more in the manual, they dont say much about swapping springs for WOT, but it would make sense to switch to a stiffer spring so it steps up sooner. I will try that out and see what it does.

 

So I went right up to the stiffest spring and it made my pedal feel a little different, stiffer, kind of feels like it has trouble going all the way down. Not sure why that is.

But i'm at the 2nd stiffest spring right now and I think it helped some but nothing crazy.

 

Maybe try the stiffer springs in conjunction with some of the other rod/jet changes you previously tried.

Are you positive that the distributor is always advancing? I only ask because part of my problem that the springs helped turned out to be a bad dizzy- it wouldn't advance, then it would, and it would stick, it was all over the board, and rarely where I needed it to be at unless it was idleing. Maybe even try one light, one medium spring.

 

i tried to get one of these carbs to work on my old 350, never could get the WOT transition to work smoothly, the lack of adjustment of the secondary air valve seemed to be the problem, it would open too quickly and make the car stumble and loose power at initial WOT.

 

Yea I want to try out the richest rod again with my new fuel pump. As far as I know the distrubutor is advancing, we've checked total timing quite a few times and it seems consistent. Initial stays right at 18 too.

How rich would it be if I put the richest rod with the richest jet? Like bogging out rich or like 11:1?

How would I be able to tell if and when my secondaries are opening since it is vacuum secondaries correct?

 

One more thing that's one of the biggest problems with the non AVS (Carter) design- you either have to add or subtract weight, and/or reshape the counterweights. AVS makes it much easier to a degree. I had a similar issue with a Carter 600, and switched to an AVS. Much easier on the secondaries.

Look at the photos in the 2nd post and F-Bird's post below it....

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/edel...ng-139005.html