jac113

iTrader: (4)

Hey 3rdgeners,
I had some free time this weekend so I decide to finally replace my broken oil dipstick tube that my mechanic broke when he took my heads off about 2 months ago. Mind you that the tube is already halfway broken, so I try to yank it out from the bottom and it won't budge. It's too short to pull from above so I start to wiggle it around and it wasn't too much after that the wiggle caused the tube to crack right at the engine block. Before I finished it off I looked up what kind of job it'll be to get it out by removing the oil pan and I quickly found out what i'm in for. A 30 minute job turned into a 5 hour one, fun huh?

The only good thing about is that my pan gasket was leaking at the rear anyway, so I can kinda justify my mistake, just wasn't planning on doing that yet.

Here's my Questions:
1. when I get the engine lifted up will this clearance make replacing the motor mounts any easier? I'd like to change the mounts at the same time but if it'll take another 2 hours to get to the bolts I might save it for another day.
2. Any tips on replacing the oil pump? I was seeing about 25psi at idle but with 200k on the short block i might as well do it when the pan is off. I remember just hammering on the one I put on my sb400 about 10 yrs ago. Are these any different?
3.Does the rubber pan gasket require any sealant?
Lastly, I'm going to do all this myself and consider myself to be a decent backyard mech, but any pointers on how to not hurt myself or the maro?

thanks

Apeiron

You'd need to lift the engine up to replace the motor mounts anyway. If you're just replacing the rubber inserts, there's a trick so you don't have to fight to get at all the nuts inside the K member.

Oil pumps practically never go bad, and your oil pressure is more than adequate.


No

jwande

Some guys have talked about leaving the mount in place, cutting a rivet and lifting the clamshell, and replacing the rubber part only. I did the whole mount but I was sittting in the engine bay (still a pain). Not completely necessary, but you might decide to drop your cross member under the tranny. But, those 4 bolts can be tough. I had to heat two of mine because they broke off. Make sure you get the one piece oil pan gasket.

Apeiron

That's how I do it... you only have to take out the "easy" bolt that way.

jac113

iTrader: (4)

Did anyone happen to get any pics while swapping the inserts and what's the best way to cut off the rivet. I think i'll have to get under it to see what you guys are talking about. I'll won't be able to get started until tomorrow probably.

thanks

Apeiron

You can drill the head off, if you have a drill that'll fit in there, or you can grind it off with a die grinder or a rotary tool.

jac113

iTrader: (4)

Here's and update guys:

Last Saturday I get started on pan gasket/motor mount/dipstick tube replacement and it took me twice as long as it should have to get me just half way. I know that sounds bad but I had some hiccups along the way. After hitting myself in the face with my pry bar while getting the driveshaft off, and fighting with the motor mount bolt because my impact was too week too loosen it and worse of all, the stupid smog pump tube that would'nt let my exhaust pipes drop because of the one bolt that's behind the head. Not only inpossible to get from the top but only allows for a 1/4 turn from the bottom. Maybe a ratchet wrench could of helped but the one I had didn'f fit around head because of the pipe's bracket.
Anyway so I spend the better part of the day just getting the engine ready to come up. Dis. is pulled, crossmember dropped and pan bolts are off, oh yeah, oil cooler pipes are a pain too.

So considering how long that took me and how much time I have to work on my car, which is not very much, ive decided to ask my friend mechanic to finish it up. He guessed about 150 to put on the pan gasket and change the mounts and wrap it up.

I could only do about a hun, so I told 'em to put on the pan gasket(lift up engine of course) and change the mounts and i'll wrap it up and he says ok.

So question for those of you who changed the mounts by taking off the whole mount instead of just the insert. Is the hundred bucks of mine well spent???

Really I wouldn't have the time until until next weekend so that means not having my thirdgen another week but behides that still wanna know if it's fair.

thanks

remltr

iTrader: (4)

For a hundred, he could come by my place and do that to both my Camaros!

Sparkytfl

The oil pan gasket is supposed to have a blob of sealer at the four corners.

jwande

I am laughing with you. I went to work with a semi-black eye from a 1/2 drive ratchet and a pipe. Been there, felt your pain!

Make sure he puts the bolts back in the motor mount for the $100. That is the hard part. Or clambshell it like recommended in other posts.

jac113

iTrader: (4)

Update:
What I thought was a good deal turned out to be a waste. It's monday and and i'm still thirdgenless. My mechanic friend took my maro to his place and placed it over a pit to get to work on it. I told him that everything was all ready to go to drop the pan. Just lift up the engine, make sure the crank counterweights are up and the pan should slide out. I was out of town on a meeting so when I got out i called and got the bad news. My "mechanic" friend claims that he had the engine halfway out and the tranny dropped and the pan still wouldn't come out. I told him that removing the trans wasn't necessary but he claims that there was no way the pan was coming out, something about the pan hitting the oil pickup screen and he had to bend it to get it out. I'm not sure what he did or didn't do but this job got the best of 'em. Dropping the pan was supposed to be the easy part but spent all day on the pan, didn't even get my motor mounts changed.

I thought maybe he was lying about dropping the tranny but he had my shifter off and all. I just finished bolting up the drivetrain last night and am going to finish bolting up the pan tonight, chage oil cooler seals and stab my dizz and should be good to go.

About my mech. friend, in his defense he's a good mech, had his own shop at one point but has never done a pan on a camaro. I still paid him for his efforts and because he lets me use his scanner every now and then, didn't want to burn a resource.

Dunno what you guys think about the job but i have mixed feelings. i'll have to r/r my mount some other time, at least I can check my check my oil level now and hope that I oil leak will be solved.

I wish I could write about how smooth the job went and share some useful info for someone but will just have to chalk this one up as a wash/loss?

jwande

I would be concerned that he may have bent the pickup tube. Look for a loss of oil pressure when you make a long turn. Also look for bubbles in the oil. You may be starving the pickup tube if it is bent incorrectly now.

jac113

iTrader: (4)

that really sucks, not something that I can ask him and get an honest answer. I was looking at the bottom of the block through the bolt holes and it doesn't look like he even wiped the the block down before puttin the new gasket on. before i put the rest of the bolts in i'm going to drop the pan and wipe down the block as much as I can. He kind of thinks that I got over on him because I may have known how much work was involved and I think that I should pay him less because it's his fault he didn't do it right, kind of a funny situation. Should get it cranking tonight and we'll see how it goes.....

thanks all

oh jwande, when I get to the engine mounts, how would I secure the rubber insert back to the base if I separate the rubber from the base. I see the rivots your talking about that secure the rubber to the base, i'm guessing a nut/bolt to replace the rivot?

Apeiron

The bolt mounting it to the frame will hold it together just fine. The rivets are only there to hold it together when it's not mounted.

jac113

iTrader: (4)

k, let me get this straight. If I knock out the rivots, the top part of the mount will come off exposing the rubber insert on both old/new mounts. So then I replace the new rubber on the base plate left on frame, put the top part over it and drop the clam shell/engine onto mount. Problem is I will still have to secure the cover to the rubber insert to the base plate b/c the rivots are out, right???

jac113

iTrader: (4)

looking at the pic again just confused me more. don't see how taking off the rivots will help to expose the insert. the insert cover will still be bolted to the frame unless i got the wrong type of mount, it's from NAPA

Sparkytfl

My oil pan also got caught on the pickup tube when i was trying to change it (changing the pan. new engine and the sump was like an inch too long and in the way of my y pipe). I had to pull the whole engine out.

Apeiron

No, if you take out the rivets and take out one bolt. When you put the bolt back in, it will hold the sheet metal together just fine without rivets.

jac113

iTrader: (4)

ok, gotcha apeiron, pop rivets and loosen the bolts enough to let the insert come out.

and thanks Sparky, so my mechanic was right.....

jac113

iTrader: (4)

Update: final
New gasket on, new seal on oil cooler and back on the road again. I had a distributor and coil from a early 90's 1500 p/u that had much less miles and I put that in too. I was trying to get rid of a sputter that it has at idle but no dice. May be a loose timing chain or plugged injector.

As far as the seal, well no dice also. I'll get about 3-4 drops on the ground every night and it's probably from the right rear corner. Kinda hard to put sealant in the corner when the engine is already in place or the fact that I didn't torque down the bolts. All just hand tightened in a zig-zag pattern. I haven't gotten under it to inspect cuz it takes me 10 mins just to get it up on stands. At least I can check my oil level now.

oil pressure: about 20 at idle when warm, I forget to see if it drops when i'm cornering due to my mech. bending the pickup screen.

All in all, $80 for coolant & seals and mounts, $100 for labor, being able to drive my thirdgen again - pricele$$.

thanks guys