1986 Trans AM Ignition Problem
1986 Trans AM Ignition Problem
I have a 1986 Trans AM 5 speed. Been having some trouble with the clutch engaging to start the engine. Sometimes it works perfect and then every now and then push in the clutch, turn key and won't start until pump the clutch a time or two. Last time this happened when I turned the key, something happened in the ignition switch. The key turned freely. The steering wheel does lock when I take out the key. Put in the key, then push the little release button beneath the key to try and start and the key just moves freely in the ignition as if the ignition tumbler is not catching on anything inside the switch itself. I located another ignition at an auto parts store. But, someone mentioned that it may be a gear thing broken that sits behind the tumbler. Anyone have this happen to them and if so how to fix the ignition? I'm thinking the steering wheel has to be pulled and that will most likely cost a small fortune. Any help or advice is appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: 1986 Trans AM Ignition Problem
Not 100% sure on a manual car - but the auto's have an ignition switch (NOT the key cylinder) on top of steering column under the guages - you have to remove bottom underdash panel, remove brace that holds that underpanel, and remove the two nuts that hold the steering column up and allow the column to drop (easily) to get to it. On the auto cars, there is a cable that runs into this ignition switch - if the auto shifter isn't in Park or Neutral the key won't turn. When you turn the key, a rod is moved in/out of that ignition switch, and the cable position inside the switch determines if the rod can move.
Must be the same kinda setup on a manual car as well - so that if the clutch is not depressed, the cable isn't in the right position to allow the rod from key cylinder to move. Sounds like the rod has broke, or something inside the ignition switch has broke thus allowing the rod to flop in there regardless of the cable position, and maybe keeping the ignition switch from connecting the juice at same time.
Checking on this would NOT require a steering wheel puller - just take apart like I mentioned and see what's happening with the ignition switch. Of course, if that rod is broken, might have to then rent a steering wheel puller and replace/repair key cylinder and rod.
OH - on that ignition switch, where the cable inserts into the switch, there are two tiny phillips head screws that hold the case of the switch together around the cable - don't lose the screws - some of the replacement switches the cable won't directly fit into (cheap junk) and you'll have to put the new ignition switch components back into your OEM casing.
Hope any of that makes sense
Must be the same kinda setup on a manual car as well - so that if the clutch is not depressed, the cable isn't in the right position to allow the rod from key cylinder to move. Sounds like the rod has broke, or something inside the ignition switch has broke thus allowing the rod to flop in there regardless of the cable position, and maybe keeping the ignition switch from connecting the juice at same time.
Checking on this would NOT require a steering wheel puller - just take apart like I mentioned and see what's happening with the ignition switch. Of course, if that rod is broken, might have to then rent a steering wheel puller and replace/repair key cylinder and rod.
OH - on that ignition switch, where the cable inserts into the switch, there are two tiny phillips head screws that hold the case of the switch together around the cable - don't lose the screws - some of the replacement switches the cable won't directly fit into (cheap junk) and you'll have to put the new ignition switch components back into your OEM casing.
Hope any of that makes sense
Re: 1986 Trans AM Ignition Problem
Not 100% sure on a manual car - but the auto's have an ignition switch (NOT the key cylinder) on top of steering column under the guages - you have to remove bottom underdash panel, remove brace that holds that underpanel, and remove the two nuts that hold the steering column up and allow the column to drop (easily) to get to it. On the auto cars, there is a cable that runs into this ignition switch - if the auto shifter isn't in Park or Neutral the key won't turn. When you turn the key, a rod is moved in/out of that ignition switch, and the cable position inside the switch determines if the rod can move.
Must be the same kinda setup on a manual car as well - so that if the clutch is not depressed, the cable isn't in the right position to allow the rod from key cylinder to move. Sounds like the rod has broke, or something inside the ignition switch has broke thus allowing the rod to flop in there regardless of the cable position, and maybe keeping the ignition switch from connecting the juice at same time.
Checking on this would NOT require a steering wheel puller - just take apart like I mentioned and see what's happening with the ignition switch. Of course, if that rod is broken, might have to then rent a steering wheel puller and replace/repair key cylinder and rod.
OH - on that ignition switch, where the cable inserts into the switch, there are two tiny phillips head screws that hold the case of the switch together around the cable - don't lose the screws - some of the replacement switches the cable won't directly fit into (cheap junk) and you'll have to put the new ignition switch components back into your OEM casing.
Hope any of that makes sense

Must be the same kinda setup on a manual car as well - so that if the clutch is not depressed, the cable isn't in the right position to allow the rod from key cylinder to move. Sounds like the rod has broke, or something inside the ignition switch has broke thus allowing the rod to flop in there regardless of the cable position, and maybe keeping the ignition switch from connecting the juice at same time.
Checking on this would NOT require a steering wheel puller - just take apart like I mentioned and see what's happening with the ignition switch. Of course, if that rod is broken, might have to then rent a steering wheel puller and replace/repair key cylinder and rod.
OH - on that ignition switch, where the cable inserts into the switch, there are two tiny phillips head screws that hold the case of the switch together around the cable - don't lose the screws - some of the replacement switches the cable won't directly fit into (cheap junk) and you'll have to put the new ignition switch components back into your OEM casing.
Hope any of that makes sense

Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,337
Likes: 29
From: Aurora, OR
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: 355 cid TPI
Transmission: Custom Built 700R4 w/3,500 stall
Axle/Gears: QP fab 9" 3.70 Truetrac
Re: 1986 Trans AM Ignition Problem
The steering wheel lock working means that the tumbler is okay. The tumbler or cylinder engages a gear that turns to move a rack. The rack acts on the steering lock at the top and also moves the actual ignition switch via a steel rod, as camaronewbie explained. This rack can break so that while the steering lock still works, the end that holds the rod going to the switch hangs loose, broken free from the rest.
Lower the colunm as suggested. You'll see the rod mentioned above running along the top of the colunm. Turn the key and see if the rod moves with the key. If not, the rack is broken inside the colunm and the colunm will need to be disassembled to replace it. If you haven't done this before, I recommend you have it done professionally as it's fairly complex. If it's a tilt colunm, it's even worse.
If the rod moves with the key, the switch, which you can now see, is either broken or has come loose from its mounting on the colunm. The steel rod may itself be broken but not so likley as it's the strongest part of the assembly.
Lower the colunm as suggested. You'll see the rod mentioned above running along the top of the colunm. Turn the key and see if the rod moves with the key. If not, the rack is broken inside the colunm and the colunm will need to be disassembled to replace it. If you haven't done this before, I recommend you have it done professionally as it's fairly complex. If it's a tilt colunm, it's even worse.
If the rod moves with the key, the switch, which you can now see, is either broken or has come loose from its mounting on the colunm. The steel rod may itself be broken but not so likley as it's the strongest part of the assembly.
Junior Member

Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: MD
Car: 1988 FORMULA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4spd auto
Axle/Gears: standard
Re: 1986 Trans AM Ignition Problem
How many of you switch a automatic non tilt column with a automatic tilt column, having troubles with starting, turn the key fuel pump kicks in lights in gages light, turn the key to start lights go out but no starter engages, nothing, no clicking.
Junior Member

Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: MD
Car: 1988 FORMULA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4spd auto
Axle/Gears: standard
Re: 1986 Trans AM Ignition Problem
Figured it out, after installing the column an re inserting the safety switch, you must run the shifter through the gears to reset the cable, an the safety switch, after I did that she crank. So it was the neutral safety switch cable that was my problem.
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