Hi.

I recently acquired an 89 Camaro, 305 TBI. When I got it, it didn't have nearly it's full power. The idle wasn't too stable either (though generally stayed around 700rpms). After a week or two, the idle would sometimes drop all the way down when the car was stopped, and die (I could usually keep it from dying by giving it some gas). Soon after, it got to the point where it couldn't go more than a couple blocks before it would die while moving. It would only die when I was in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear, and below about 2k RPM.

I pulled out the distributor, and replaced the ignition module. This was a slight improvement, in that the car drove for about 15 miles before dying, at a stop. Then, I replaced the pick up coil. That made a HUGE difference. Suddenly, the car had all its power back (note: the gas tank was full at this time).

Even though it felt like I had all my power back, the RPMs would STILL dip and rise while stopped: down to 500 and up to 1.1k (never low enough for the car to die anymore though). Once my gas tank reached about 2/3 full, it seemed like there was a bit of hesitation, when I pressed on the gas at all while the tach was below about 2k. Once the gas tank dipped below half, the gas needle starts to fluctuate. Also, even above 2k, it seems like I don't quite have the power I should have. It seems like the less gas I have, the less "power" the car has. I have also noticed, when I start the car, if I have the fan on, blowing air into the car, I can smell gasoline. Oh, and on a cold start, the engine turns over, RPMs go up to about 2.2k then it dies (unless I press the gas pedal). After it dies, and I start it again, it starts up fine.

Fuel pump was the first thing to come to mind, but it seems like it could be more than one problem I'm facing. And if it's relevant, I do have a remote solenoid hooked up (the original was getting too hot). Let me know if I may have left out any other relevant information about my car. Thanks for your help.

 

Did you change the fuel filter? What about plugs. cap, wires, rotor? Any SES light?

And welcome to TGO!

 

I'll have time to check (and probably just replace) the fuel filter tomorrow. I know it's the original filter. Plugs, cap, wires, rotor seem fine (plugs and wires were replaced less than a year ago). Somehow I forgot to mention the SES light has came on twice in the last week. Once it came on while going over a bump, and once while around 4.5k in 4th gear, merging onto a busy freeway. After I turn the car off, then on again, the light doesn't come back on. It hasn't come on at a time when I can take it to a shop to get the code checked.

 

You don't need a shop - you need a paperclip and read this:

https://www.thirdgen.org/service-eng...ht-error-codes

 

There might be a stored code to check - just because the light isn't on doesn't mean there's not something in there to check.

 

Sounds like your car needs a good tune up. Check the fuel pressure, replace the plugs and fuel filter. Set the base timing back to 0 deg (with the est unplugged). Depending on the miles of the car you might need to pull the TBI unit and clean out the gunk in the bottom passages of the unit. Your IAC could be sticking as well. A quick shot of carb cleanerr can go a long way with a gummy TBI unit.

 

The SES code was 43 [Low voltage at electronic spark timing circuit]. I ended up replacing the plugs and cap/rotor (it wasn't looking too good inside), which I'm guessing had something to do with the code 43(?). After replacing those things, the car performed a little better. Then, I took the TBI out (which actually didn't look too bad), and cleaned everything. Took the IAC out, and it was really bad, with tons of gunk inside, under the spring. Good call on the IAC. I ended up replacing it, and now I have no problems with the idle, and the car is running smooth and has its full power. Oh, and I did replace the fuel filter as well. Didn't get around to the timing, or checking the fuel pressure yet.

Thanks for your help!