Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
#1
Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
As the title states, I changed the cap and rotor yesterday and assumed that I could use the std "#1 is at 5 o'clock method to put the wires back on.... WRONG.
So, now I have no idea which post on the dist cap #1 actually is... My first thought would be to just play "musical plug wires" and keep rotating them (keeping the firing order correct) until it fires up again.
Is there serious harm in doing this? Also, is there any other way to determine #1 w/o finding TDC on cyl #1?
So, now I have no idea which post on the dist cap #1 actually is... My first thought would be to just play "musical plug wires" and keep rotating them (keeping the firing order correct) until it fires up again.
Is there serious harm in doing this? Also, is there any other way to determine #1 w/o finding TDC on cyl #1?
#2
Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Beautiful Coastal New Jersey
Posts: 276
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
5 Posts
Car: 1990 Firebird
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: Auburn posi 3.73
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
At this point I would probably just start from scratch. Take out the #1 spark plug and put your thumb over the hole. Then have a buddy get in the car and bump the starter until you feel the air pressure on your thumb. #1 should now be close enough to hook up the wires. Once you're done with that you probably want to get the timing light out.
#3
Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Manitowoc, WI
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 90 Camaro
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
You could take off both valve covers, see which cylinder (or cylinders) have both valves closed or almost closed, then put a wrench on the crank and turn it to see which cylinder should be firing (both valves closed and not moving) and start with that plug wire.. But for all that work its probably going to be easier to do what Pound suggested.
#4
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,893
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Aussie 9-bolt/3.27 posi
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
Not any help now, but next time you change any dizzy cap? Pull the cap off with the plug wires still on, making sure you know where the orientation was. Put the new cap on. Then transfer the plug wires one by one.
#6
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Delaware
Posts: 3,371
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
no 1 is directly behind the brake booster hose on the back of plenum.
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Littleton, CO USA
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
34 Posts
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You could turn the engine over until the timing mark on the damper lines up with the timing tab. From there you will be in one of two possible positions, #1, or #6. If the rotor is pointing somewhat forward, it's probably #1 (unless someone put the distributor in 180 degrees off sometime in the past, and changed the wires on the distributor cap to "fix" it). If the rotor is pointing somewhat rearward, it's probably #6 (unless someone put the distributor in 180 degrees off sometime in the past, and changed the wires on the distributor cap to "fix" it).
Trending Topics
#8
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
Depends upon how confident you are it wasn't messed up some time in the past.
You could turn the engine over until the timing mark on the damper lines up with the timing tab. From there you will be in one of two possible positions, #1, or #6. If the rotor is pointing somewhat forward, it's probably #1 (unless someone put the distributor in 180 degrees off sometime in the past, and changed the wires on the distributor cap to "fix" it). If the rotor is pointing somewhat rearward, it's probably #6 (unless someone put the distributor in 180 degrees off sometime in the past, and changed the wires on the distributor cap to "fix" it).
You could turn the engine over until the timing mark on the damper lines up with the timing tab. From there you will be in one of two possible positions, #1, or #6. If the rotor is pointing somewhat forward, it's probably #1 (unless someone put the distributor in 180 degrees off sometime in the past, and changed the wires on the distributor cap to "fix" it). If the rotor is pointing somewhat rearward, it's probably #6 (unless someone put the distributor in 180 degrees off sometime in the past, and changed the wires on the distributor cap to "fix" it).
I turned the engine over with the #1 plug removed and waited for the compression to blow my finger off of the hole; I looked at the damper and the timing mark was at the teeth on the block. I pulled the cap off and it appears that the rotor is pointed at 7 o'clock, instead of 5:00, where I was expecting to see it. I went inside and looked at some pics of the engine I'd taken at various stages of getting it running - Sure enough, it looks like the P/O has #1 at about 7:00 and then the rest of the firing order looks correct. I put it back together this way and will test tomorrow when the tank comes back (just called as I typed this - I'll pick it up in the morning).
Could the fact that rotor points to #1 when it's at 7:00, be an indication of anything as far as ignition timing goes?? The engine seemed to run correctly with the old cap/rotor, although a little rough; I figured it needed a new rotor/cap as well as some fine tuning.
#9
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
I did a little bit to it today, but until I get my fuel tank back in tomorrow, I won't be able to tell if it worked.
I turned the engine over with the #1 plug removed and waited for the compression to blow my finger off of the hole; I looked at the damper and the timing mark was at the teeth on the block. I pulled the cap off and it appears that the rotor is pointed at 7 o'clock, instead of 5:00, where I was expecting to see it. I went inside and looked at some pics of the engine I'd taken at various stages of getting it running - Sure enough, it looks like the P/O has #1 at about 7:00 and then the rest of the firing order looks correct. I put it back together this way and will test tomorrow when the tank comes back (just called as I typed this - I'll pick it up in the morning).
Could the fact that rotor points to #1 when it's at 7:00, be an indication of anything as far as ignition timing goes?? The engine seemed to run correctly with the old cap/rotor, although a little rough; I figured it needed a new rotor/cap as well as some fine tuning.
I turned the engine over with the #1 plug removed and waited for the compression to blow my finger off of the hole; I looked at the damper and the timing mark was at the teeth on the block. I pulled the cap off and it appears that the rotor is pointed at 7 o'clock, instead of 5:00, where I was expecting to see it. I went inside and looked at some pics of the engine I'd taken at various stages of getting it running - Sure enough, it looks like the P/O has #1 at about 7:00 and then the rest of the firing order looks correct. I put it back together this way and will test tomorrow when the tank comes back (just called as I typed this - I'll pick it up in the morning).
Could the fact that rotor points to #1 when it's at 7:00, be an indication of anything as far as ignition timing goes?? The engine seemed to run correctly with the old cap/rotor, although a little rough; I figured it needed a new rotor/cap as well as some fine tuning.
but you really need to mark #1 on the new cap. Mine is at 3:30 (give or take)
purists will tell you to remove the distributor and try to install it again and get it lined up so #1 is at 5 or 6 o'clock. Frankly, as long as you and the next guy knows the location of #1 then that is all that matters
#10
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Cary, North Carolina
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
16 Posts
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
The rotor can point to the moon when engine is at TDC #1 piston, doesn't matter where it points, as long as the #1 plug wire goes on THAT distributor cap terminal and the rest of the wires follow the firing order around.
#12
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Delaware
Posts: 3,371
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
just look at the brake booster hose on the back of the plenum directly across from it is no 1 on the cap. It is at about 5 o'clock if your standing in front of your car. It is very simple. You may have something else wrong. Is your distributer in correctly?
#13
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Delaware
Posts: 3,371
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 91' Firebird SOLD
Engine: 350 TPI +bolt-ons
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
Alright, stand in front of your car. imagine a line going from number one spark plug/cylinder to your distributer cap. The line will be 22 degrees or so.It will come out to like 5 o'clock position if your distributor is a clock and you are standing in front of your car.
#14
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Cary, North Carolina
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
16 Posts
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
Alright, stand in front of your car. imagine a line going from number one spark plug/cylinder to your distributer cap. The line will be 22 degrees or so.It will come out to like 5 o'clock position if your distributor is a clock and you are standing in front of your car.
#15
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Bozeman MT
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 83 Camaro
Engine: 4 Bolt 350, Bowtie aluminum heads
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.42, superior axles, Torsen diff
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
It would just be best if you started from scratch as was said before.
When I pull and reinstall SBC distributers I have number 1 as the passenger side front post(7 o clock?). I have seen service manuals showing #1 as the drivers side front on some smallblocks and passenger on others. My 94 truck shows it on the drivers side.
The fact is it really dosen't matter where the post is. I have found the passenger front #1 seems to give the cleanest looking wire routing. thats really the biggest reason I do it that way.
When I pull and reinstall SBC distributers I have number 1 as the passenger side front post(7 o clock?). I have seen service manuals showing #1 as the drivers side front on some smallblocks and passenger on others. My 94 truck shows it on the drivers side.
The fact is it really dosen't matter where the post is. I have found the passenger front #1 seems to give the cleanest looking wire routing. thats really the biggest reason I do it that way.
#16
Re: Changed cap and rotor; unplugged all wires, forgot where #1 was...help
camaronewbie is right the position does not matter, wherever the rotor is pointing at on the compression stroke is number one. attach #1 wire there and follow the firing order around. It could be 2 3 8 or 12 o clock it does not matter. #1 is #1 no matter what position its in
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eightsixseven
Tech / General Engine
1
08-14-2015 03:09 PM