I have a 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro. Bought it with no engine that originally had a 305 TBI. I swapped it out and put a 305 TPI in it. When I got everything thing hooked up right it was running perfect. A little ruff at times. But still good, then it started needing "starting fuel" to start up and run. So I was doing that for a while. It would always stall and run really ruff coming to stop lights and slow stops. Then I put a new ECM in it and it was running perfect. Then after about 3 months it went back bad again, back to the stallings and using starting fuel. Long story short. So my car had started up on its own for a while. But then it started needing "starting fuel" sprayed into the throttle body. Then when I put the new ECM in it, it would start everytime no matter what the case. 3 months later everything was going wrong again, but it would always start with the "starting fuel" but still would stall when hot, etc.

One day I accedentally left the MAF sensor unplugged and drove like 50 miles at speeds around 90-115 mph for about 40 miles. Then when I got off the freeway it just dies on the road. Thats when I popped the hood and I found out that I forgot to plug the MAF back up.

After I did that...

It wasn't starting for nothing. So then I noticed that I didn't hear the Fuel Pump prime for 2 seconds. I went and bought a new FP (and put it in right there on the road) and then it started right up but was running a little ruff. I drove it home and let it sit over night and ever since then it would not start for nothing.

I did all of the procedures to unflood the engine if it was that. Still not start. Tried to turn the key ignition on like 10 times so it can have fuel in it. Then I cranked it and it like "almost wanted to start" but then still nothing... just cranking. So I gave up and didn't have the money to go get it a diagnosis.

So I let it sit for about 6 months (Because I was at school)

And Today...

I replaced the Distributor Cap, All New Fuel Injectors, New Spark Plug Wires, New Spark Plugs... Gapped and Torqued right, New Fuel Pump, and "New 89 Iroc-Z 305 TPI 700r4 ECM" New Runners, Plenum and Throttle Body. Connections are all good. Starters good. New Battery, New Alternator.

I tried to start it and it was just cranking. Nothing. Didn't even sound like it wanted to start. So I didn't want to kill the battery. So I thought... "what the hell" lets try the "starting fuel" again... And then when I tried to start it... The engine made this wired noise... As I turned the key the noise sounded like... errRRRannneerrRRRRannn (In a really slow motion type sound, plus the engine was turning over really really slow for like a quick second... like almost it wanted to die or something) then right after that it cranked like normal and then back to the weird sound then right back to cranking and then I just stopped cranking the engine and gave up...

Can ANYONE HELP ME PLEASE... ANYONE???

 

Here is a Video I just recorded. I am no mechanic. IDK maybe when I said that it was "having a slow hard crank" wasn't because of the Ether or Starting fuel like I said it was. Idk... Like I said I'm not a mechanic. But this is all it does. Even the second time when I tried to start it with the "starting fuel" it didn't even wanna budge. But usually starting fuel makes it at least want to start for a second. So that it what is weird to me...

Please anyone help?

 

have you checked for spark and running without the MAF won't hurt the car, it'll just run like crap.

 

yea sound like no spark cuz its not even doing anything when ur spraying ether in it.

 

your ignition module might have gone bad too. using starter fluid on a fuel injected motor is not good either. when you swapped the motor did you re pin the tbi to tpi or just replace the entire harness?

 

I just went threw this on my daily driver, it just wouldn't start one day. Tracked it to a bad ignition module, turns out my cowl seal had a bad spot allowing water to drip down on my distributer, replaced the cap, rotor, module, and ordered a brand new gm seal.

 

Sounds lie you got sucked into replacing parts, not knowing what the problem was. Now it's time to stop guessing and start testing. Someone said check spark, definitely the place to start. Also, test for injector pulse with a noid light or 12v test light. One quick hint at what might be wrong: Check the inline fuse by the battery. Let us know what you find.

 

I used the test light and yes the injectors are all working perfectly. I don't know the proper way to test for spark so I pulled all the spark plugs out just to be sure on all of them.

As I was testing for spark I thought that I might not be able to see the spark so I was holding one wire while standing on the ground and reached my hand in and turned the key to start the car to see if it had spark and it shocked me a little... but I did see a little spark. (it gave me a little scare for a sec though)

So then I took all of the spark plugs out and plugged them in there wires and told someone (that knows what to look for) to look for spark while I turn the ignition... They said that they seen no spark at all...

I repeated this process multiple times and they said still no spark at all. I even had them turn the ignition while I watched the spark plugs just to be sure... and yup... there is no spark at all.

But wait... So I figured? Well It shocked me and I seen a little something, sooo... Doesn't that mean that there should have been spark during the further tests after that?

I didn't know where to find the inline fuse by the battery... (plz excuse my uneducated-ness)

 

Also... I've been reading on google and doing research and they also said that I might need to replace my "ignition coil" and also my "distributor rotor"

My friend asked me why I bought and installed a high conductance distributor cap but didn't replace my distributor rotor also?

Would that be a good idea? To get a new distributor rotor? (because mines does look a little old and worn, just didn't think of it because I thought it was connected to the shaft... didn't know that it popped off)

I found online that the ignition coil - The ignition coil takes power from the battery and increases the voltage to a level high (around 45,000 volts) enough to create a spark in the plugs.

That also kinda explains why I wouldn't have spark right? If thats bad then it wouldn't create and provide spark to the plugs i.e. the ignition coil.

What do you guys think?

 

The fuse by the battery is the fuel pump fuse. It's in a holder and should be fastened to the inner fender well by the battery. The test for spark fairly simple. Remove a plug wire and insert a #2 phillips(1/4" shank) into the plug boot. Hold the screwdriver shank sbout 1/4" from a metal part of the engine while a helper cranks the engine. You should see and hear a bright blue spark. Repeat this test on a few plug wires. If you get spark on one plug and not the others, remove the cap and check the rotor for damage. If you get spark on all wires tested, reinstall your plugs, assuming they're not soaked with fuel or oil, and buy an inexpensive adjustable KV tester at the local parts store. Set it at 40KV and check for the spark to jump this gap. If the spark won't jump 40kv, replace the coil.

 

BTW, check all fuses while your at it.

 

Thanks man. It's too dark to do it now... Although the no light would be great to see the spark. Tomorrow first thing in the morning I will definitely perform these tests you have just explained to me. Thanks

I'll also check for all the fuses as well and I will inform you tomorrow in sometime in the morning before 12 pm eastern time and let you know how everything goes

 

If you just got a little tickle from the plug wire while holding it in your hand and cranking you dint have enough spark to jump the plug gap loaded with fuel. Probably a bad rotor or coil as ASEdoc has suggested.

 

Was this problem fixed my car d doingthe exact thing

 

Another topic that is exactly what I am going through with no answer. SHOCKER.

 

The answer is in following the tests listed above. The internal combustion engine isn't all that complicated. It needs compression, about the right amount of fuel, and sufficient spark at about the right time to start and run. If your cranks and won't start, see if it has good spark. I was too forgiving with the test above because I was assuming that the guy's ignition parts were probably fubarred. The HEI should fire across a 1" gap with a loud snapping arc. If it won't fire across at least 1/2", you need to check again on the coil wire to see if the problem is at the coil or at the cap and rotor. If there is no spark from the coil at all, use a 12v test light to check for power on the pink wire and a flashing light on the white wire. If this is okay, replace the coil.

Try unplugging the MAF sensor if it has one. If the car starts and runs with the MAF unplugged, that's a clue. Check fuel pressure. If no pressure, see if there is power to the pump. There is a connector just in front of the tank, under the car. The gray wire is power to the pump. It should be hot while cranking and for about two seconds after turning the key on. If you have power and no fuel, replace the pump. If you have fuel, check injector pulse and power with the test light or a noid light.

There is no quick easy answer to why your car won't start. Unless you just want to stand back and throw parts at the problem on the chance that you might get lucky, you need to do the testing to determine what the actual problem is. These are old cars. There are a whole bunch of possible reasons why it isn't starting, but probably only one actual reason.