My rebuilt short block has a Federal Mogul/Sealed Power replacement timing chain. I popped for a Cloyes true roller. Of course, the crank gear is on so tight, it needs to be removed with a puller. I have a puller but would need to fab up a "chuck" as the tip of the puller is smaller than the hole in the crank and I don't want to booger up the threads in the snout but I'm pretty sure I could handle that. And, then there's the putting the Cloyes gear back on. I always thought the crank gears slid on and off but apparently that's not the case and am unsure how to install it if it needs to be pressed on. However, I'm lazy/anxiety riddled. So, my question is this: do I really gain that much from the double roller chain or should I just slap the gear back on my cam and call it good as this is not a super-duper, big power rebuild? Or, should I do the "good" one? And, if so, how?

 

The crank sprocket is a press fit. Takes a puller, 3-jaw is best, such as you can "rent" from AutoZone and such. Pretty trivial.

For a "stock" sort of rebuild, the Link-Belt style chain is fine. No benefit from the high-$$$ one. OTOH if your existing chain is a "truck roller", GET IT OUT OF THERE. But no need in any case for the "true roller" unless there's alot of stress going on in your valve train.

 

Yeah, they're a press-fit. Getting it off with a gear puller is no big deal even if the puller's center bolt won't straddle the bolt hole. Just cut some 1/8" plate in a 3/4" square (or 1" diameter circle), lay it on the end of the crank and you'll have a solid surface to push against. Our just a little 3/8" bolt that will slide all the way in the hole and the head of it will act as a solid surface that will support the end of the puller's center bolt. Lotta ways to skin that cat.

Putting it back ON is the easy part. Get a BIG deep well socket (like inch and 3/4) or just some heavy wall tubing that will fit over the crank snout and tap the crank gear on with a hammer. And I do mean TAP. Not pound. Well, OK, maybe more than a tap but definitely way less than a pound. It's not that tight a fit.

 

OK. Thanks for the help. I was thinking of the bolt in the snout but just starting to drill a hole in the head of the bolt so the point of the puller doesn't "walk" around. In the mean time, I think I've got it figured out. I've got a harmonic balancer puller/installer and a 3 jaw puller, (a little big but it'll do). So, if I get this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4789/ , I should be in tall cotton. Yes? No?

 

I agree putting them back on is easy. I use the crankshaft nut turning tool and lightly tap them in place with a socket. That installer is basically the same as using a big deepwell or crank turning nut.