i have a 87 camaro iroc 5speed 305 and i just did my valves and i connected my battery back together and i go inside the car and theres no power to anything at all. fuses are good.

any idea what couldd have possibly happened?
any suggestions would be great

thanks

 

what did you do to your valves, or more importantly, what did you remove in order to gain access.

 

i was ajusting the valve because a couple were held open. i removed the valve covers. a smog pump hose. the ignition coil(the one the has vacuum lines coming out of it.), a heater hose that goes into the manifold and thats it. i also checked the fusable links and they are fine.

 

thats puzzleing...

idk what to suggest other than check and recheck ALL your connections.
if nothing still, bust out a meter and start taking some readings

 

How about that fuse that's in it's own holder at the left side of the rad?

 

Did you remove your ground strap, from the block to the chassis?

1.) Check battery for voltage. I don't see why you wouldn't have any charge if you do then...

2.) Do you have voltage between the chassis and the positive of the battery? What about from the block to the chassis? I'm going to bet you don't. I'd check your grounds, or make sure that you have a solid connection to your battery. I have mistakenly undertightened battery terminals and had no power. an hour of diagnosing later...yup.

 

My brother just told me that he forgot to removed the battery and he was removing the ignition coil and it sparked up with a ground wire to the block and gave out a lot of smoke. Would there be a fuse that's popped since my stupid 5.0 enthusiast Brother happened to make a mistake on my car?

 

He might have blown a fusible link, which resides in places with high current flow such as between the starter and battery. But if he is saying he grounded out the ignition coils to the block and chassis, he most likely blew a fuse or fuseable link. Short to ground takes the loads out of the circuit which allows a much larger amount of current than planned upon through the fuses.

 

i see three fuseable links on the wires that are going to the starter. do i cut all of them and replace it later?

 

Are they blown? You should be able to see it if they are.

Also, is the ignition coil blown? They work on induced voltage and have a very high resistance (20k to 40k ohms). If you grounded it out, electricity would have gone through the block, through the chassis, and to the negative on your battery. If you simply accidentally grounded it to the block or a ground point, I'm inclined to think you would not have blown anything UNLESS electricity had to pass through that object. If the ignition coils did blow, you won't be able to start at all.

Take them out and see if you get high resistance readings from them.

You said you have zero power to anything in the car, correct?

 

yes no power at all. no interior light, nothing. im pretty sure when it did get grounded out he reacted quickly and moved the coil. the fusable links look normal like before. im not sure how to check to see if they are blown or not. and is there any other fuse boxes other than the one under the dash? i am going to test the coil for resistance. and a blown coild would cause the "dead car" problem?

 

Yes. if a coil is dead, the entire module will not fire. If your spark plugs do not work, then the computer will not send fuel. You would have power, though.

If a fusable link is blown it should be split in half, it cuts the connection just like a circuit breaker: resistance goes up, heat is generated and it melts the special wires to break the circuit.

You most likely, like my car, have a lot of in-line relays and fuses. Unfortunately, my car does not have a centralized fuse box so when it comes to checking them, you gotta look around. They all should be on the driver side, near the firewall, though.

You wouldn't happen to have access to AllData or any electrical diagrams/Haynes manual would you? If it's none of the obvious stuff, then you will have to start digging.

Oh, btw, have you tested your battery yet? Bring it to NAPA and use their digital load tester.

 

i do have access to all data at my school. ill check it out and ill post if i find the problem that fixes it

 

Sweet. Dunno if you have ever used the location numbers on a wiring diagram (like C100, C200, C300) those will be really useful for you right now

 

interior light will still work even if fuseable is blown, ck batt connections, if side post battery, they can be a bitch, big time corrosion issues inside the cable ends.

 

I got my dmm and the battery still has full voltage and the starter negative post has full voltage and the positive side of the starter terminal has 0v but I was told it was normal. I have voltage from block to ground. I tightened down my terminal posts with a ratchet and a 8mm socket. So were else should I check. I'm still waiting to get the diagrams from my school.

 

you have 0 volts on the starter stud, or the solenoid pull stud?

 

yeah the stud with three wires to it

 

you should have power at that big stud on the starter

 

oh really? so can it be the fusible links? cuz i know theres three on that circuit. i have voltage everywhere else but there

 

You should have 12 volts everywhere. If you see 0, there is an incomplete circuit. That can be something normally open, like a relay. Not necessarily broken., But in your situation, yes 12 not 0. SO now time to hunt for that drop!