Hi, everyone.

So I have a sort-of pickle I'm in. I have just recently swapped in a ZZ4 motor into my 1989 IROC-Z Camaro, and its basically altogether, save the prom that I'm waiting to be sent back to me.

Anyway, the old original motor that I took out was a 305. The original throttle body was a 48mm, and I bought an aftermarket BBK throttlebody, which was a 52mm. Now, there was of course no problem so far, except that this new TB came with a disclaimer in the box that stated it is of the utmost importance that the first time you connect it and start the car, you need to let the car idle up to operating temperature so the computer can adjust and find an appropriate idle speed.

As I have a brand new motor, this is not an option- when I start it, I'll be revving it around the 2200 rpm range to break in the cam. So, what do I do? Is it as important as it says it is? Has anyone had first hand experience with this throttle body on a motor that they were breaking in?

Any comments or other questions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

If its a ZZ4, theres no need to hold it at 2000 RPM to break in the cam. It will have a roller cam that requires no break-in period. That is only needed with a flat tappet, which has basically flat faced lifters with a slight crown that have to establish a wear pattern to work properly. The only break-in required will be for the rings. GM should have included something on the required procedure in the service packet that came with the engine. What I usually do is after about 20 miles or so of normal driving to make sure there are no unforseen problems with the engine, Ill do a couple of half-throttle and then a couple more WOT runs up to about 5k to help get the rings seated.

As for the note with the TB, thats because the IAC will not be in the normal park position. This means that the computer will not know the IACs true position. Once you start and run the car, and shut it back down, the ECM will park the IAC. You may have to hold the throttle open the first time to get it to start. After that, just let it run for a bit, and shut it back down. Other than that, it wont be much different than the stock one.

 

Woaaaah, hold the phone.

First off, thank you for the very informative reply. But I have some new questions now, lol.

I guess the big problem is that no, GM did not put ANY INFORMATION in with this motor when they sent it to me. Trust me, my dad and I looked at each other quizzically about this. It kind of pissed me off that I paid over 4 grand for a piece of machinery and the most info I got was the shipping manifest from the damn truck company. There wasn't even any lube or grease on anything - not even the cam. Though, it seems you're saying it doesn't even need to be broken in the same as a flat-tappet, which surprises me. I know the differences, but man, I just assumed, you know? That really threw me for a loop, lol, but I will really review my 'break-in' procedure.

On that note, I was really anxious about breaking in my motor right, so I scoured the internet, and found 3 different sources that I found to be credible, and all mentioned how important breaking in the cam is. So, not doubting you, really, but you're positive that a roller cam does not need this so-called 'crucial' period of revving? I can see the logic in what you said, but I don't want to take any chances.

As for the throttle body, is what you're saying that even though I'll be driving it right off the bat, it won't be bad or negative if I don't follow the disclaimer? If you could, tell me a bit more about that.

Thank you again.

 

Sorry for the double post here, but...
After doing some deeper searching about ZZ4 break in specifically, I have seen quite a few sources claim that it's broken in at the factory - though I am skeptical about this. Can anyone shed some light on the matter?

 

Pardon me for bumping this, but I'd really appreciate some info on the matter. Time is running out!

 

Is this a complete ZZ4? Or just the shortblock? From the price it sounds like its a complete engine, but I just want to make sure.

If its a longblock, it wont come with any lube, as it would have already been pre-lubed at the factory. All you have to do is install it with its accessories, fill it with oil, and, optionally, prime the oil pump if you want it to have lube a little sooner.

As for the liturature, GM may not include it anymore. I got it with my first crate, but that was years ago. They should have it posted online.

 

If its a complete ZZ4, you dont need to break in the cam. Rollers have no break-in period. Just the rings will need to be seated once you get the engine running. All you need to do is reach in, turn the key, and start it. Check for leaks and make sure its OK, then do the break-in procedure, minus step 3. Insteat you just want to run it at a high idle for the first few minutes to get the oil circulating.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/archiv...p/t-36639.html

 

It was the longblock, yes. It came with an intake manifold that I'm obviously not using. And I switched the water pump and dist. but that's a different story.

But that's my point, the oil pan was bone dry, the cam and rockers were bone dry. No evidence of the factory lubing or firing her up. This plus the fact that there was no information packet (which seems to have happened to a lot of people, judging by my online searches) kind of pissed me off, but I just did it all myself.

Do you know for sure where any info would be online? I've searched many places for ZZ4 info, and I only get spec sheets, never 'installation' or 'breaking-in' instructions.