I got some good stuff off a few searches. like torque patterns and bolt patterns.

ihave a 350 TPI and im down to the heads (replacing head gaskets) NOW this is my question. do i need to remove ANYTHING else other than the head bolts?
do i need to take the rocker arms off? or the pushrods? will the puchrods fall into the block if i leave them on and remove the heads?

all i need to do is remove the headers and the bolts and replace gaskets. i already know that i need to keep the rids in exact order for wear reasons.

also, i know the valves are self adjusting, so if i need to take the rockers or anything off the heads, can i just bolt them back on and button up everyting?

i just read that i need to do valve lash? going to look that one up in the mean time

school me please. any info would be greatly appreciated. I searched and am still searching as well. ASE doc made an awesome post about replacing head gaskets BTW! thanks in advance!!

 

You need an extra pair of hands (or 3) - pushrods will want to stick to the head when removing it, but easiest to let them stay on the block (to keep them all in their respectful place).

Nothing special here, just remove the head bolts and remove the heads, keeping pushrods in place. Then, I have a shoebox with X's cut in the lid, and marked "front" on the lid, filled with 2 inches of rice, cat litter, or something similar - I remove the pushrods from motor and stick them in the slits in the showbox lid to keep them in order. That way, they are easy to replace after reinstall of heads.

 

I use a chunk of 2 x 4 with 16 numbered holes drilled in it, not quite all the way thru, that's served me well. Stick the pushrods in those, then you can hang rockers, ***** and nuts on those if you remove them. Pull the rods before removing the heads - heads are heavy, and you'll risk bending or damaging rods whilst moving the heads.

You will need to do the valve lash again, as the new gaskets will probably not be quite the same thickness as the old ones. There's 8 billion threads on setting lifter preload.

 

ok i got a little better understanding as i started to remove everything and also looked up a youtube video. te good thing is that i have NOT moved the crank or the rotation so im leaving it like it was. I also marked how the dizzy was placed in the order it was before removal. and synced up to the manifold for proper re installation so i dont have to fiddle with the timing much.

good ideas guys. we used a brown cardboard box and everything is in order. well since i took those off im thinking of installing roller rockers on there when i re assemble but need to look into that. not too sure if there is a whole other can of worms for that one or it just might be that simple. nothing is that simple.

in the video, the guys tightens the nuts just enough so there is no 'play' as he wiggles the pushrod and to make sure the socket is not resting on the actual rocker arm so you can feel the correct tightness. kinda makes sense to me. and like i said, nothing has been rotated.

one problem i can see my self running into is the fact that the heads are bolted onto some of the accessory components (a/c and alt.) yikes.
thanks again fellas! I know it might sound nobbish and i have done A LOT of wrenching but never gotten this deep on a SBC.

 

Glad you realise that - this is the crucial first step to make before wrenching anything! Actually, most of what's done in car repair is simple in concept, but the devil's in the details - research and measure, just like you are doing.

Obviously, to remove heads, anything bolted to them - accessories, intake etc, are going to have to come off first. Find out what you are removing, and take pics before you pull it off. Put removed bolts back in the holes you pulled them out of, or into labelled sandwich bags. Label wires so you know where they go back to.

Good move with the dist - have you researched how to reset timing?

 

oh trust me i have a box of plastic bags and every bolt is back in the plenum, or runners so i know where it goes. all wires are taped and labeled. the rods are in a box, labeled, etc. got the camera handy too for snapshots.

very true, its just that i noticed some bolts going into the heads from a few accessories. so i wasnt sure if i had to remove the whole accessorys or just those bolts. from the looks all i have to do is remove a bolt from each side. look more into it tomorrow. today was rods, rockers and labeling. im in no rush, but want to do it soon so its still fresh in my memory. its like chess right now, im looking at the next move and also looking in the chiltons manual.

for timing, my friend said when its put back together, fire it up and hook up a timing light on clamps onto the battery and the other to the num 1 plug/piston. and shine the light on the balancer and it will show the degree as i turn the dizzy. not too sure what the base timing is, gonna look that up too. think i heard something before on here like 6 or 8*.

thanks for the insight!

 

quick question, i bought new head bolts (fel pro) and i also bought some liquid teflon type liquid to coat the head bolts that go through water jackets. the head bolts come with the threads coated, in white. in the paper its states that nothing is needed to be put on the threads

so do i put some on anyways? im just asking because I read everywhere that you need the teflon other wise the water could leak through and you can be at square one.