I have a 1989 GTA with the 350 engine, borg warner 9-bolt rear, and 700r4 auto transmission, lexan tops, AC/Delete, and aluminum shaft. Aside from a conical K&N, a de-screened MAF, the car is bone stock. My goal is to get 350HP+ at the crank eventually. This car is a garage kept weekend warrior, not my DD and will likely never get more than 1000 miles per year.

I have $4,000 budget (to start) I am looking for advice on direction. I'll likely work in steps to get the car where i want it, so here's my first step.

STEP 1:

HEADERS:
Sitting on my floor is a pair of Hooker 2055's ready to go in. I was thinking of switching those to long tubes but for Pennsylvania roads, may spell doom for it's street-ability. if i absolutely NEED to keep the stock cat positions, i may sell the hookers and contact dyno don.

Question: should I stick with the 2055's or look for a long tube setup? Car will be driven on PA roads (some of the worst in america). I am looking to get as much HP as possible without modding the actual block (for now) and make sure any future updates done to my engine, the current mods will scale without the need to replace. if anyone has longtubes on their firebirds, please post pics! Also, anyone using Dyno Don's headers on their bird, post pics as well!

EXHAUST:
My idea would be to get the cats gutten but the stock exhaust system for the 350 looks incredibly inefficient! A straight pipe back from each header sounds idea, but compared to the camaro, the underside of the bird seems a lot less forgiving when running pipes. http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/r...m/IMG_0775.jpg With my above 2055 header choice, the 2 headers move into a single 3" collector, but the current headers move into dual cats that collect after the cats into a single 2.5".

Question: gutted cats will pass inspection as its visual only, but on a car that is driven less 1000 miles a year, i've been told in my state, I can remove them completely? Without replacing the **** stamped torque arm (see below) it looks like routing dual exhaust is a real PITA under the birds. Once again, if people could post any long tube firebird exhaust pictures they've had done, I'd appreciate it! (and yes ive been looking all over the site already and seen some decent pics so don't say i didn't use the search first

INTAKE:
From the K&N filter to the block - I was thinking of purchasing a First TPI intake system: http://www.firstfuelinjection.com/PDRM1966.JPG Prices start at $1000 for the kit and will need a new fuel pressure reg (88fastgta has an article on how to install this). Stock bosche 22lbs injectors will be used and no block modification will be done (cam, bore, etc).

Question: At the point of install, i want the block itself to be the bottleneck in my car, will this achieve my goal? The idea here is to provide as much bolt on breath-ability to the block without re-tuning, or modifying the block itself. A worry of mine is flowing so much more air, that the stock MAF and/or computer maxes it's numbers out (being 8-bit). Can someone confirm if i even need to worry about this or will the block itself have enough inefficiency to have this occur?

CHASSIS:
I am looking to get a nice set of sub-frame connectors to stiffen up the feel of the car. As mentioned earlier, i live in PA where the roads can go from smooth, to potholes, to bumpy, to uneven (even different elevation between passenger and driver-side. Depending on the exhaust setup's requirements, I will likely be getting a torque arm at the same time. Tubular mig-welded, unknown what brand i'll shoot for yet. Suggestions are welcome.

Question: Would weld on or bolt on be better for my road system? I would think bolt on could be readjusted if ever needed, but the weld-ons will save me (or a shop) from having to tear apart the interior to affix them, correct? Also, do you think i'd benefit from an adjustable torque arm? I currently have no plans to take it to a strip or running a different sized rear tire.

ENGINE BAY ITSELF:
I'm looking to remove the AIR system from the bay to clear things up and save some more weight. I've already removed the AC system and replaced it with a delete pulley. This site already told me the right belt to get to completely bypass / remove the air system.


That should be it for my step 1 mods and should come pretty close if not just over my $4 grand budget (with shop labor if needed). Thoughts, suggestions, etc?

 

With the exhaust, I would go with a good shorty headers ( possibly dyno dons headers with his y pipe) along with an aftermarket y pipe, that goes into a 3 inch catback exhaust. You lose ground clearance with long tubes, and will be much more difficult to install. And as for gutting the cat... why?? Its illegal to tamper with emission devices. Just buy an aftermarket one, it will only cost you 1-2 hp max. My exhaust setup consists of dyno dons shorty headers along with a catco converter into a 3 inch catback exhaust, and makes 480 hp at the crank.

 

Exhaust is a great upgrade and you should consider true duals if you wanna make that kind of power

The intake im not too sure of, you dont need it not now atleast

Heads and cam first but if you want some power your gonna really feel, stroke the motor out to a 383