Just wondering, I have a large journal 327 sitting around what would a 350 crank do to this? What would it equal out to, The block has to be bored out .30 over too. It would be considered a stroker as well right?

 

In the world of 327s it would be considered a stroker. In the world of SBC 350s, it would be considered, well, a 350. With the 0.030 overbore it would be pushing right at 355 cubes.

A large journal, 3.48 stroke 327 is essentially how the 350 was born. With the 327 heads you'll get a little more static CR, but the old 327 heads were not great for flow. You can get the same kind of 9.5:1 CR with L98 or other 64cc heads and better flow. Newer truck heads might even be better if you can guide the push rods or use self-aligning rockers.

 

Wow duh me. I should have known that, I feel stupid now. So could I throw a 400 crank in that block? as far as heads, I will figure that out later on, I am just trying to figure out my next engine build. My father gave me the block and I want to do something with it so.

 

What's the block casting #?

THe block for a 302, 327, and 350, are all the same. Just yerbasic 4" bore.

You can't just "throw" a 400 crank in them, because the 400 has larger main journals. The crank won't fit, as-is. However, back in the day, people would take them and grind them down to the large-journal size, and put them into 4" bore block, which gives a 383 if the block is .030" over. But in this day and time, people don't do that any more, for a variety of reasons. Instead, cranks that are designed as 383 cranks are widely available for basically the same price as 350 ones. They are often internally balanced, so there's no need to deal with the 400 external parts. If you have to buy a crank and pistons ANYWAY, makes little sense NOT to get the most CID possible, since it's basically FREE at that point.

 

Yeah I will bore it 30 over and buy a 383 crank. Prolly buy flat tops and all fancy **** (aka forged).

 

You'll probably want to use some fancy aftermarket 72cc heads then. Any factory 72cc head is likely garbage, and any good factory heads for a 350 like Vortec/L98 heads are going to give you an astronomical compression ratio with flat tops.

Pick piston tops you need to get the compression ratio you want, not just because it sounds good.

 

I said flat tops bc I want to have somewhere between 10.5:1and 12:1 compression.
Actually I have heard good things about Trick Flow so I was thinking trying these heads out http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30400002-M64/
and either http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-31400510/ or http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP3000BL/
Rockers. (remember this is a 383 now) with speed pro forged flat tops. Any guesses on how much horse? Or general Ideas for a cam. I was thinking something like .489/.504

 

Any help with my last post? A large journal 327 is the same as a 350 main right? at 2.45" correct? I just dont want to order the wrong **** and you guys here are ****in life savers. and you havent sent me the wrong way yet.

 

Both use the exact same block. They're not even a 327 or a 350 until the crank is put in them.

 

You might want to post the casting number of the block to make sure its a LJB.

 

I looked that up and yes it is large journal. But IDK anymore. 383 on a 2 bolt block.... not sure if I trust it to hold forever. Even though I know a bunch of people say it really doesn't matter and it'll hold fine.

 

2 bolt and 4 bolt blocks are the same casting too. Only difference is the 4 bolt block has more material milled away and more holes drilled in it.

 

Well I know that, I meant as far as the strength of the bottom end, maybe its just me but I'm a little sketchy about making a 383 out of a 2bolt block

 

How much power are you really plannng on making? There are people who wont put more than 350fwhp through a GM block period. I think that's paranoid... but if it's a newer 1 pc rear main I'd probably stop around 400-450 at the flywheel before I went to get splayed 4-bolt mains. I'd probably never bother with an actual OEM 4-bolt block. I'd also run a cast crank the whole time too, but Im all about spending money on parts that make power instead of overbuilding your bottom end with heavy, expensive parts that arent necessary.

In fact, at the point where I need to get splayed mains and forged cranks/pistons... I'd just go LS1. The stock internals can handle 5-600hp from the factory, and the block upwards of 1000.

 

More holes and less material doesn't make you think that the 2 bolt might be stronger than a 4 bolt?

Whether you have 2 or 4 bolt factory mains doesn't make a lick of difference in any way that means anything to a street engine. There's a lot of stuff you're going to wreck long before you need to worry about the strength of the block.