Question time again guys.

On anything other than a full tank, my fuel gauge will drop a considerable amount while braking then rise a considerable amount on acceleration. I read that this effect is due to the fuel sloshing around in the tank and is in fact normal, however the gauge SHOULD have a delay from the time it takes it to react when it recieves a change in signal from the sending unit. Mine instantly responds to any changes in g-force. I did some reading and discovered that there is a circuit consisting of a capacitor that is built into the fuel gauge itself that will delay any fluctuations received from the sending unit for this exact reason.

My question is if the gauge were taken apart is this a common capacitor that could be bought and replaced?

 

Mine does the same exact thing and i read up about the capacitor also seems like a common problem that is so common people think its normal.

I would like to know how to fix this also

= full on my car

my brothers 95 chevy Beretta did the same exact thing also
maybe its in the blue prints for the design and Chevy left it haha

 

mine does it too. You should see how it looks on my boat

my 4th gen's fuel gauge is all over the map too. Don't let it go to 1/4 because you'll be walking with a gas can in your hand.

 

alright but lets say its suppose to be extremely sensitive like they are how can we fix them?

new cars don't do it so they must have put something in so they aren't so sensitive. the whole capacitor idea makes sense just what size should we go with and how to do we put it in? and if its to sensitive or not enough how do we read the sizes to judge how far either way to go in the size

 

okay so since no one has any ideas on a fix i went to a junk yard today and grabbed a few fuel gauges i noticed that mine on my car after i pulled it off

if i push the needle up and down its extremely easy and has no resistance to it at all

the ones from the junkyard have a noticeable resistance to them i swapped them out alot better when i turn on the key it slowly moves up to were my fuel is my old one was instant.

the new gauge still moves around a little bit but no wear near as bad as my old

so finally if i hit a bump my fuel gauge isn't bouncing around any more thought you guys should know how to check your gauge real quick. no idea on how to make them even less sensitive but i have an extra one maybe on my free time if i find any ill mess around with it see what i can do.

hope this helps alot of use with the stupid bouncing gauge. this is more like the extreme ones were if your at a half tank and brake it says your less then 1/4 and when you punch it it says your full.

oh tip: in case if no one has pulled them before super easy just unscrew the black bezel take off the clear one and then the metal framing undo your 7mm bolts holding them down and they just clip in and pull out cluster dosent need to come out at all 20 minute job start to finish