Heres the thing guys over the past week i have been experiencing bogging when first accelerating, also at idle the car felt like it was missing it would rev itself up and down but very slightly hardly noticeable, i could also hear what sounded like hollow pops coming from the exhaust (missing?)

So today i decided, well ill measure the resistance on each plug wire and see what i find, before i go spending money on parts. (already changed plugs twice and triple checked gaps)

So here are my results i just randomly numbered the wires from front to back 1-4.

Passenger side

#1 1.431
#2 1.300
#3 1.311-1.312
#4 1.107-1.108

Drivers side

#1 1.352
#2 1.660
#3 1.530
#4 1.415

Now from those numbers the only wire that stands out to me is wire #4 on the passenger side with a resistance of 1.107-1.108.

Seeing how the range on those wires is from 1.107 - 1.660 should i rule out wire #4 on the passenger side as being bad? or is that still considered normal and within range?

Im running accel super stock spiral core 8mm wires and upon inspection of the wire i only found the folowing tear but it seems like its just on the surface of the boot.






as a temporary solution i grabbed a box of old wires i had laying around although these are 7mm wires i replaced the wire with it and took the car for a test drive, before doing so i also noticed that this nut on this linkage was loose so i tightened it.





After going for a test drive the car ran so much better, no bogging no hesitating, so now im wondering if it was the wire or the linkage that was giving me problems. Any ideas?

Thanks for reading guys i know its a lot of info but i tried being as detailed as possible.

 

OMG.....that sounds EXACTLY like what my 91 RS is doing. I have a slice in one of my wires but it looks to only be at the surface but it isn't on the boot. I pulled all of my plugs out today and checked and re gaped all of my plugs today. I purchased 8.8 spiral core wires to put on it tomorrow and if that doesn't help I amd going to move on to the cluster of what the PO did to the harness wires where it plugs into the coil. You can watch the tach up and down between 1000-250 rpm. Almost like it is going to stall then it is like the engine saves itself. It hesitates bad in when I accel......and stalls when I push the clutch to roll up to a light. last thing its running REALLY rich and if it stalls it will start right back up. I have been trying to fix this for like 2 and a half weeks and I'm going nuts!

 

Good luck man for me i found out the prob was a bad cylinder with 77psi of compression

 

what did you do to find out and fix it? I'm still learning.

 

Nothing it means my motor is pretty much gone. Could be a bad valve but my 305 isnt worth rebuilding so im getting a new motor. Cars still driving but its bogging bad and it makes driving embarrasing..

But its only temporary. Make sure ur problem isnt ignition related, and do a compression test on it.

 

Well that is completely ironic because ALL of my BS started after I changed my plugs...the engine was idling and accelerating fine before that. Here is the real kicker......I havn't checked the block numbers yet but supposedly the PO and daddy got a remaned 350 and put it in and dropped the 305 heads and intake TBI and everything on it and put it in the car so idk......cheap ppl. My brother-in-law is dead set that it is electrical/ignition related but, I'm pulling my hair out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It is pretty embarrasing driving right now for me to.

 

Thats what i thought too man i was focused on the plugs. I changed them 3 times and triple checked gaps. Test your plug wires maybe try one last batch of plugs and how does your distributor look? Mine was brand spankin new so i didnt suspect it at all.

Try checking your engine for a bad valve thats what i did and mine failed the test. Hold a white sheet of paper over your exhaust tip and see if the paper is constantly being blown outward by your exhaust. If at any point the paper is sucked in then its a valve problem.

Mine sucked in the paper :/ so im pretty much thinking its a valve issue.

That test is supposed to be an old method of troubleshooting valve problems.. worth a shot. And u can rule something out.

 

My distributor looks new and clean.....don't even know the make....blue looks a little cheesy but looks good. I will try that valve test tomorrow for sure. If there is an issue at the valve and it really is a 350 block I was going to put a set of aluminum 350 heads onit anyway wouldn't that help?

 

Yeah it would, but if it is a valve prob u should fix it asap, and avoid driving it so u wont ruin the motor. Im driving mine because im waiting for it to pop lol, i simply dont care much for this motor. Im just glad it hasnt given out just yet.

Trying to buy some time so i can get everything ready.

 

well if all the BS about it being a reman. 350 it only has 19,500 miles on it but the old 305 crap on the top end so I really don't wanna waste the engine if that is true. I'm guessing that if it fails that test I should pull those heads ASAP and prevent a MASSIVE load of bs.

 

Start with the easy things first, really a compression test will tell u everything u need to know. It helped me prepare for whats coming.

Let me know how it goes man hopefully ur problem will be a simple one.

 

sure thing.

 

I have an 86 T/A with 305 4bbl. Been 7 years since I've done a tune-up, so I replaced cap and rotor, replaced plugs and wires. Now I have a rough idle with a mis and can be heard out of the exhaust?? Ran fine before, just thought it was time for some PM?? I've gone back and checked everthing over and everything is correct. Taking it to a shop tomorrow to get the timing checked and whatever else the mech. can do. I may also buy a new ignition module and replace that if the timing is fine. STUMPED!!!

 

Check the harness connections (pink wire) if you have the external coil. That can cause a problem if that comes loose inside connector. Just check that out if it applies.

 

I did the old paper test and it passed....no suction so I guess we can rule that one out, which is a good thing. I put my new wires on and that didn't help anything but in the process I re gaped my plugs. Never believe that pre gaped crap. Anyhow I was at a buddies shop and him and his other mechanic looked t it and he told me that he thinks the air intake that I have on it is playing a part in the problem and to get a stock one back on it. He said that it is sucking to much air. IDK so I'm gonna try it.

 

I dont think the intake will make much of a difference.
What kind do u have? Unless its something extreme?


Atleast u dodged a bullet with the paper test

 

It has a 180* open intake on it. Honestly I don't think that should be making a difference.

 

***update*** Well, I took my car to the mech and it is now fixed!! For some reason my timing was advanced 20 degrees?? Maybe that was what the mech set it at 7 years ago when I had the rapidfires installed?? It ran good though. After putting in the regular ac delcos it was missing pretty bad?? He set it at 0 degrees. No more misses, but I did notice it didn't have near the power it used to have. Going to take it back and have it avanced 5 degrees?? Hopefully that will give me back some better power and still idle good without any misfires??