bracket rs

iTrader: (2)

i keep seeing these threads pop up about stalling /surging idle, my rs would be fine till it warmed up, then sitting at a stop light it would surge a couple time, then stall, would start right back up no problem
here's the items i replaced with no results whats so ever

m.a.p sensor
t.p.s
air temp sensor
complete distrubtor
swaped out a complete borrowed throttle body sensors and all
throttle body gasket
e.g.r valve
02 sensors
knock sensor
have driven it with scanner hooked up, watching sensors, nothing crazy going on
did a smoke test on the intake

nothing changed at all

then noticed my balancer was starting to separate, replaced balancer
then checked timing, i've always run 6-8 degrees and super-unleaded
for a little performance.
checked timing after balancer replacement, was at 15 degrees
set it 4 degrees and surging/stalling when warm has gone away,
so the outer balancer ring had moved and was giving me a false timing mark
have put 300 miles on it no problem

jtsk

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for posting! This is good to know and will help others.

leo27030

Hi my 91 3.1 V6 is doing this same thing what's the best way to check to see if the harmonic balancer is bad ? also I tried replacing the throttle position sensor and after putting the new one in,when I started the car it would run like the pedal was to the floor and set off the engine light instantly . when I ran the codes it gave me 3 codes they were 22 , 32 and 35 I've already replaced the Map sensor and the idle air control also the EGR and many other parts and after the above problem from replacing the throttle position sensor I put the old one back in and after I put it back in it ran normal until it warms up just like before

ASE doc

You'll get more help by starting your own new thread rather than posting to an old thread like this. As for how to tell if your balancer is separating, look for the elastomer(rubber ring between the outer damper ring and inner hub of the balancer) to be sticking out one way or the other from the balancer. I have also had cases where the damper ring has actually come dislodged from the rubber and has walked its way back towards the timing cover.

As far as helping you diagnose your drivability issue, I don't know how to advise anyone who doesn't test parts, and the circuits to them, before they replace them. You can replace every part on that car and never fix it if you don't learn how to test circtuitry. You need a good DVOM and a 12v test light. A scan tool is also helpful. You will also want to have a good service manual for your car. The manual will have trouble trees for each symptom or trouble code.

leo27030

I've tried to test them with a volt meter and can't ever get any kind of readings from the circuits or the parts so that's why I've ended up just replacing the parts .