heyy guys and gals!!! i bought this intake a while back when i was a noob to the engine world. its a carb intake and doesnt have the egr valve hole which i didnt know mattered at the time so im trying to see if i could make due with what i have. dont want to admit that i may have wasted my money but im a realist soooo lol. i actually DONT want to go carb cause i like the tbi setup. some do, some dont..im just hoping theres some advice out there to be given. maybe it could be drilled and taped or something?????

couldnt find this within my search..prob cause everyone else has more sense to just buy the appropriate intake lol but here i am nonetheless.

 

What intake?

Do you need EGR installed to pass test?

 

thank you sir for replying. really appreciate it.

ok, the intake is "the original torker" thats what it says...ORIGINAL TORKER lol

well, i guess i dont NEED it but i want to keep the egr because of the horrid stories of detonation, gas mileage, ect...so i just wanted to keep my tbi and egr to keep from a load of mess. I DO KNOW that i could get the egr disabled through a chip but idk where to start with that...i hate starting something without the proper guidance. but to properly answer your second question, NO I DO NOT NEED IT FOR EMISSIONS. NO EMISSIONS HERE

 

Is the Torker for your car, or your antique collection?

 

LMAOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!! now that was a good one. like i said, i didnt know as much about intakes then..im no genius now but i know that was a less that favorable move. but to answer your question...YES, IT IS FOR MY CAR LMAOOO

 

Now that's funny

 

BUMP for help

 

are you worried about passing emissions nox too high? get a new intake than !!

 

Find another intake. If you're lucky you won't have to pay someone too much to take the Torker off your hands.

 

im might be worth 5 bucks in scrap !!!

 

CLOSE...

 

lol wow is it THAT bad of an intake? is it at least better than the stock tbi?

 

In all honesty, not running an EGR valve really doesn't affect your motor negatively in any way, shape, or form. However, as others stated, if you need it to pass a visual inspection, it's good to have it on there. The EGR system on my original TBI 305 started malfunctioning and triggering the check engine light with the dreaded code 32. I took the EGR valve off, filled it up completely with "The Right Stuff" rtv, let it dry overnight, and bolted it back on, then just plucked the check engine bulb out of the dash. Motor ran perfectly fine without the EGR functioning. If you really want to use that Torker intake, you can buy an adapter plate that allows you to bolt a TBI unit onto a carb intake. Don't know how well a TBI motor would run with the Torker, but it's totally doable, as long as you don't need the EGR valve present to pass a visual smog equipment inspection. On my TPI motor I just had EGR disabled in the PROM chip, but removing or changing the PROM chip in a TBI computer is a PITA because you can't just pluck the chip out like you can in a TPI computer, so that's why I just pulled the check engine bulb instead. Lol. As far as checking for trouble codes, you can always plug the bulb back in real quick, jump the A and B terminals on the ALDL connector with a paper clip and see what codes it flashes. The only code mine ever flashed was that stupid code 32 (EGR), which is a PITA to get to go away anyways!

 

no there is no type emissions inspection what so ever here so thats the farthest thing im remotely worried about. ive had the egr check light for about 2 mnths now. only reason ive kept it is because of the crazy effects people say it has on your motor. thats the only reason i even had the retard idea of inserting an egr valve into the intake in the first place. the only thing i fear, as far as removing the bulb is concerned, is something else going wrong and the check engine light not letting me know. i wouldnt mind a chip burned to delete it but i dont know anyone and ordering one is kinda iffy cause if something isnt done right, id have to go through a BUNCH of stuff. can the egr be ripped out and plugged for a few months until its properly deleted? ill need a new chip down the road anyway due to a future modded 350 swap.

 

As I said above, you can absolutely remove the EGR valve, install a block-off plate in its place, and it will have exactly ZERO negative effects on the way your engine runs. About the only positive benefit to having the EGR valve functioning, at least according to the factory engineers, is it helps cool down combustion chamber temps somwhat. But the other side to that coin is the fact that running the same motor without the EGR valve in place is such a minimal difference in combustion chamber temperature, that it hurts absolutely nothing. As far as having the check engine bulb removed, I still stand by my opinion that it's not all important to have it in the socket. Reason being, is if you ever develop a problem that's serious, you're gonna notice right away because your motor will be running like total crap! And if it does start running terrible, just put the bulb back in there long enough to retrieve whatever trouble codes that may be stored in the ECM. And TBI motors are so ridiculously simple that it's rare for them to actually register any code that means something serious has gone wrong. My TBI 305 always ran great after removing the EGR valve. I put the check engine bulb back in on a couple of occasions just to see what codes were stored, and the only code it ever flashed with the bulb back in place was that friggin code 32(faulty EGR). Ask just about any member on this site who's owned a 3rd gen for a long time, just how hard it is to get code 32 to disappear for good, once it starts registering! As long as the EGR system is functioning properly, there's no reason to mess with it or disable it. Once it starts malfunctioning though, that's when it's time to remove it and cover the hole with an inexpensive block-off plate. But, if you have to pass a visual smog equipment check, like I mentioned above, you can completely fill the bottom of the valve where the pintle assembly is with some good RTV sealant, then bolt it back on the intake once the silicone has cured. That's one of the many things that sucks about the TBI intakes. It's really easy to see where the EGR valve is on them. Luckily my new motor has the SuperRam intake on it, which has that huge, pizza box plenum, so a smog tech would basically need a flashlight and a small mirror to even be able to tell if there's any valve under there!

 

i understand now, thanks pat. one more question...is the torker intake THAT bad??? i know its kinda old but i bought it cause i read it produced a good amount of low end torque.

 

Depends on how bad it has to be to fit YOUR definition of "THAT bad".

Personally, it fits MY definition of "THAT bad", and is even worse.

Sorry to hear you actually BOUGHT it. I doubt I would even accept it as a gift let alone PAY for it. Now, you have the opportunity of finding the next "greater fool" that wants to go back to the past, and take advantage of THAT person's .... whatever mental shortcoming you care to call it.

 

wow, ok..guess i just get me a performer and be done with it. thanks

 

Consider it as a learning experience... the lesson is, research BEFORE you buy, not AFTER.

 

I agree that the Performer intake would probably be a better option, but holy cow, the above remarks about the Torker are pretty harsh! Sure it's old school and there's been vast improvements on intakes over all these years, but I'd pretty much guarantee that Torker would offer better performance than just about ANY factory GM intake, except maybe the old Z/28 dual plane high rise. In fact, the new Performer RPM is basically a direct copy of that original Z/28 intake, unless you're talking about the Air Gap version. I guess what I'm saying is if you're too broke to buy another intake right now, why not throw the Torker on there for the hell of it and see what it does? Of course you probably could find a used Performer on fleabay for pretty cheap if you look around a bit. Actually, now that I'm thinking about it more, the perfect intake for your motor would be the Edelbrock Performer TBI intake. That'd be direct swap without having to mess with adapter plates or any of that crap.

 

thats EXACTLY what i was thinking!!!!! i mean, i already have code 32 anyway (idk if i said that already)...why not just drop the intake on. just wanted a egr port thinking it would be useful somehow. but i was sure that even though its old, it will still be at least A LITTLE better than the factory 305 tbi intake. i know the answer is out here somewhere but...can i plug the egr hose? like, remove the valve and plug the hose. im sure removing the entire thing would leave a HUGE vacuum leak in my engine.

 

Well after you've spent however much money it end up taking to graunch that "cheap" intake onto your engine, and discover the results, I guess you will have learned a couple of other lessons the hard way, too... namely....

Sometimes the most expensive thing you can buy is a "free" one.

And, just because a part has a name on it other than the OEM, doesn't somehow make it automatically "better" in any particular way.

 

That intake is more for top end performance w/ a carb. It'll make your car run lean when you crack open the throttle, so it'll need major tuning & fuel pressure increase. I don't know why they call it a torker, it doesn't make torque down low.
Get a dual plane intake, sould be easy to find on craigs/ebay. Hell new ones are around 100-125 bucks.

 

Exactly...

It is a FUNDAMENTAL MISMATCH to the rest of the engine. The price paid for it doesn't change that. Then, it will take no telling how much $$$$ in adapters, brackets, and however much other foolishness, for example trying to get the TV cable to work right, which risks smoking the transmission ON TOP OF whatever negative effects it has on how the engine runs. Are you ready and willing to take on headaches at that level? Do you honestly think that WHATEVER an intake manifold can do for the engine you have, it's worth that much trouble?

Just altogether the wrong thing for the situation at hand.

And, if you were in a situation where an intake of that type was the RIGHT thing, it would be grossly inferior to a modern one, anyway. You'd get beat by somebody whose intake takes advantage of what we've learned about intakes in the last 40 years or so. How would this be a good idea?

Find a "greater fool". Cut your losses NOW while they are very low, before they mount any higher. Learn and move on.

 

yeah, i see what your saying..thanks guys. guess ill just find a more up to date and manageable intake. ill check back here BEFORE i buy another intake lol

 

Ya know, Sofa and ex-x-fire really are correct in the advice they're giving you. Even though I was encouraging you to go ahead and use the Torker since it's already paid for, they're right in saying in the end it'll cost you a lot of money trying to get it to even run right at all with the TBI system. In all honesty, your best choice would be the Edelbrock Performer TBI intake. That would be a direct bolt-on, making everything a snap. And if you do want to eliminate the EGR valve, that's a piece of cake also. Either buy or make a block-off plate yourself. Personally I'd recommend just buying one. They're only about 20 bucks or so from either Summit or Jegs. Once you have the block-off plate installed, just remove the vacuum line that went to it and cap off the vacuum port. These guys are right in saying that the Torker manifold is a total mismatch on a TBI motor. It probably would run like dogsh*t, if it even ran at all. Just buy that Performer TBI manifold, block off your EGR and call it a day!

 

OHH YEAHHH performer tbi intake it is. might as well grab a cam and roller rockers too. question though...seeing as how im just going to get an egr intake anyway...cant i keep my egr??? what part about the egr exact is throwing the code??? like, i have my 350 in the back that i could get the valve off of or something. just a thought

 

Whooo boy, you're opening up yet another can of worms when you mention getting a "cam" for a TBI motor. Almost ANY cam you put in a TBI motor will require retuning the computer. About the only exception to that problem is another thing Edelbrock offers. Edelbrock has a TBI performance cam if I remember correctly. That's probably about the only aftermarket cam you'd be able to put in there without having to retune the computer. Like you said, since you'll be putting on an intake that's setup for EGR, then yeah, you might as well just bolt another EGR valve on there. However, once again, when it comes to TBI motors, the EGR valve is specific to the LO3, or TBI 305 also. A garden variety valve off of some 350 won't cut it, unless you're talking about the valve off a L05 (TBI 350) motor. That one might work on there. Chances are, with a new intake and a new EGR valve, the code will more than likely disappear. While the intake is off, you'll want to clean out the exhaust crossover ports located right in the center of each head (between the intake ports). With the crossover ports cleaned out, the new intake, and a new EGR valve, the code SHOULD go away. However, as much of a PITA it can be to get rid of the dreaded Code 32, even with all those steps, I won't guarantee the code will disappear!