While in the process of replacing a head gasket, I accidentally let the alternator wire short out on the driver's side valve cover. It arced for a few seconds and then suddenly stopped. Fast-forward to yesterday, I got it all back together, but now the car won't start. It will crank and fire off a few pistons while cranking but it won't run. Originally, I thought the problem might be crossed injector wires but I understand that it shouldn't matter if 6 and 8 were swapped.

So, I suspect that the short may have done some damage somewhere. I checked all the fuses including the ECM fuse in the engine bay and they are okay. Checked 45 psi fuel pressure at the rail. I am taking the ignition module to get tested tomorrow. The pickup coil reads slightly less than 800 Ohms. I have a new distributor cap, rotor and plug wires and I have verified spark at the plugs and correct timing (#1 at TDC corresponds with the rotor pointing to #1 on the distributor cap).

Presuming that the ignition module is okay, could a faulty VATS allow the firing of a few pistons during cranking. I understand that VATS cuts off the fuel pulsing but does it cut off all fuel completely? If so I guess I could rule out VATS since I am getting some cylinders to fire while cranking.

Any other suggestions as to what could be causing this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

if VATS were the issue, it wouldnt spin the starter or fire the injectors at all. so the fact that it cranks and tries to start says its not VATS. id double check the timing, theres 2 TDC for each piston, one for the compression stroke and one for the exhaust stroke.

and youre right, the TPI system is batch fire, it fires all the left injectors at one time, then all the right injectors. so having #6 and #8 swapped wont make a difference, since theyre in the same batch.

 

Thanks for the reply. I was reading a number of posts on this site that there are two parts to VATS--disabling the starter and disabling the fuel injection pulsing. Is this incorrect?

I have double and triple checked the timing.

 

VATS does control both the start enable relay and the injector firing. if the VATS module doesnt read the right key value, the car wont crank at all, or fire the injectors. but it sounds like both of those things are happenening atleast partially. have you tried starting it on starter fluid?

 

Not yet, but I am going to build a test light to see if the injectors are firing first. So, with the part of VATS that disables injector pulsing, no fuel at all should come out of any injector? If this is the case, then you are right--VATS can be ruled out.

 

thats right, but unless the start enable relay is bypassed, it wouldnt be cranking either. VATS controlls both at once, if one is off, both are off.

 

you can rent a noid light from the local auto parts store to test the injector pulse

 

I may do that. I am going to Auto Zone to have them test the ignition control module. If it checks out good, then I will probably rent their noid light to check injectors. The pickup coil measures about 800 Ohms. Would that be a confirmation that it is okay? I'm thinking the shorted alternator cable must have taken something out--maybe a fusible link or something--because when it was shorting to the valve cover it stopped completely as if something opened a circuit.

 

it might have. there should b 3 fusable links on the starter post. its cheap insurance to replace them.

 

Wow. I'll check that now. Thanks.

 

id also check all the fuses in the fuse panel if you havent done that yet either.

 

Will do. Thanks.

 

Won't even try to crank if VATS is holding things up. Not a click, nothing.

 

Okay, I had the ignition module checked and it is okay. I put a test light on the injectors and they are pulsing. One weird thing I noticed is that after a failed start attempt the fuel pump runs for 20 seconds and then winds down. You can hear it in this video if you turn the volume up. Should it run for that long? I also noticed that even with the ignition off, there is an occasional (every 15 seconds or so) clicking noise coming from under the intake plenum, but I'm not sure what it could be.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFE6JNct4vE

 

I totally shorted my alternator on my valve cover last weekend! Lodged itself against the positive, huge black cloud of smoke ending with catching the ground on fire. Luckily I had an extinguisher under the dash. I just had to share that you are not alone, but never again will I forget to D/C battery.

 

Yeah, that was pretty lazy of me not to disconnect the battery first. I won't do it again. I guess it's down to seeing if it will start with spray starter fluid. I've never tried this before. I'll keep a fire extinguisher nearby.

If there is any fusible link that could have melted during the shorting process, I can't seem to find it.

I'm beginning to wonder if it's the fuel pump but it was showing 45 psi when I checked it at the rail.

 

Did the same damn thing alternator wire set on fire scary good luck man

 

So I pulled off the driver's side valve cover (the easiest to access) to double check that #1 piston was at TDC and it matched with the rotor. By rotating the distributor further counter clockwise I was able to get the car to run, but really rough. Then I noticed that absolutely no oil was getting to the head.

When I jacked up the engine from underneath to change the mounts and the oil pan collapsed inward slightly, could I have damaged the oil pump? I only ran it for about 20 seconds. Did I trash the engine or is it worth trying to replace the pump? Anyone? I'm about ready to push the car of a cliff at this point.

 

Need to pull pan and check
If you have closed up the gap between oil pickup and pan , it may be restricting oil flow

 

Do you think the engine was damaged by running it 20 seconds without oil?

 

I started the car one more time for about 10 seconds and checked the oil pressure gauge in the car. It is going up to 32 psi at idle. For whatever reason no oil is getting to the heads. Any thoughts?