I currently have a 355 sbc with flattops 9.5 to 1 compression, ported 083 heads that flow 210@ .500 intake and 169@ .500 exhaust, with a lt4 hotcam 492/492 and 218/228 with 1.5 rockers, hsr with 58mm tb, shorty headers no catts and 3 1/2inch int pipe with 80 series flowmaster,how much rwhp should i be making with a good tune and built transmission just with what i have right now? and how much would it take to get too my goal of 450 to 500 rwhp? I was thinking of boost or a bottle??

 

I would say you'll need more compression, a much larger cam, and better heads to do it n/a. Im sure boost will get you there quicker but then you will want to look into a forged bottom end.

 

maybe 300whp with what you have now. 150-200 shot would get you 450-500whp.

Or boost, 10psi should get interesting.

But boost and nitrous are your best/cheapest bets.... doing that natural aspirated is gonna require new built bottom end, 11 to 1 comp, a good 200-220 cc for 4" bore, ported intake, big cam, 7K rpms.... but its doable.

 

im trying too fuiger out if i am even making the power i should be with this setup before i change anything because some people tell me this setup should be pretty fast if it was tuned right, is this true?

 

thanks for the info orr, i think im gonna go with the boost will this kit be ok for 10 psi? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-SMALL-...77650648501805

 

Something like that could work if the manifolds fit. Looking at the pic, it looks like they come off the head a good ways before going straight up. May interfere with the brake booster and master cylinder. you'd still need alot of custom work to get it all together. Its not a bolt on kit by any means and the turbos may sit up preetty high. Sorta like my old setup and I had to cut the hood to fit them.

 

Are there any bolt on turbo kits that are decent for our cars beside the procharger kits?I would go with the pro charger kit but it seems a little pricy, and since im only gonna run 10 psi i was hoping there would be something a little cheaper??

 

Not that I know of. For some reason nobody is making kits for these cars and when they did, they werent cheap either....

You could try a universal STS turbo kit or one for the LT1 cars and just run new piping to the front of the car.

 

you could take stock manifolds an flip them then run a pipe with the right angle to where the battery tray is on the passanger side an where the vacum canister is on the drivers side .

 

would this kit take alot of work to install?http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-SBC-Tw...8c811b&vxp=mtr

 

or this one i think the manifolds are two different styles http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-SBC-Tw...f3544d&vxp=mtr

 

Take it to the track. That should be 250-300hp, and you should be able to get into the 13's with it.

If you take it and are knocking on 13's, then you can just continue along with your crazy "throw turbos at it" idea* because it's working about how it should and it's just too slow for you. If you turn a 15.1 or a 14.8 or something, you'll know you have more fundamental, likely solvable, issues to take care of before you immediately declare the engine underpowered.

I think your only realistic option for 500hp is to build a 383 with $$$$$ aluminum heads, or nitrous.

*turbos are crazy just because.... well, if you dont know how to get to 500hp, how are you supposed to know how to do a turbo setup? There's always a ridiculous amount of fabrication, expense, and really important tuning work to be done to do a turbo setup. You need top notch bottom end parts and you need the experience to tune it well enough not to blow it up. You also need the ability to fabricate all of it. It's a LOT to do, and that's why there are no "kits" available for our cars. Even with a bolt in kit, there's so much work, knowledge, and other expenses involved that it's just not practical.

If you want to do a turbo setup, that's fine, but go buy a junkyard 305 TPI that has an intact bottom end, and just bolt everything up to it and learn to tune it and get comfortable with all of it, and then keep turning up the boost and tuning it til it pops. You could easily get 400hp out of a setup like that, and maybe 500. You'll learn enough through that process that you just might be able to build a big bucks expensive bottom end motor for a really high power turbo setup and actually have it stay together a while.

 

Why not spend $700 more, and build a non boost engine. That is what I am in the middle of gettinfg started. Ill have about 400-450rwhp.

 

because vistageek92 your not building a 450 hp motor from scratch for 1600 dollars .your 80% there if you already have 350 hp .lol

 

this is true, but his engine should be pretty darn close to mine i would think...

 

I'm already concerned. I hear the mention of cheap and 450-500 HP in the same phrase. Unless you're planning to build a really loud grenade, there is nothing cheap about building a 450-500HP engine. My 355 turns 450HP at the crank. I have $2,500 invested in the bottom end alone and that was using a factory block I bought from a friend. The rest was spent on solid, high test parts and quality machine work. Without the quality parts and machine work, I wouldn't expect my engine to last through very many 7,000rpm up-shifts. And believe me, if you plan to make 450-500HP from 355 CID, especially at the wheels, you will need to make power to 7,000rpm.

A boosted or nitrous injected motor just raises the cost of engine parts. Forged pistons, crome moly rods and crank and 4 bolt splayed caps are an absolute must in such a build.

The more I think about it, my best advice for you would be to find a good engine shop in your area, tell them what you want and let them build it for you.

 

You can do a milder 350whp setup and spray a 100-150 shot just fine on stock type internals...just need to be careful with the tune Ofcourse it wont live forever if you abuse it but nothing really does last forever.

There was a guy here spraying a bolt on L98 with a 200 shot and living just fine. A mild L98 bottom with better heads/abit bigger cam and intake mods plus a 150 shot should last as long as rpms are below 6500 and tune is good. Should be a 450whp car without much effort.

Ofcourse the stouter the build the better.

My old 383 all forged set me back 3600 or so for the shortblock assembled by engine builder. Abit pricey but started with new oem block not rebuild on my L98. That was a 400whp 7K capable rpm motor (peaked at 6200 but held power to 6600) and sprayed 150 on top of that for a 500+whp motor. No special parts just shelf forged parts you can buy anywhere. My turbo shortblock is closer to 4600 but not assembled. I had to do that But its with a 1800 dollar aftermarket block so costs offset. Going all forged is just about required for a 450-500whp setup n/a. Need to strength for the rpm levels.

 

A 200 shot of spray on a stock L98 bottom end makes me ascared! Lol!

 

Good stuff here.

I am not shooting for as much rwhp that you are, but when I am finished with my motor i should have about 5k invested into it.

Forged bottom end is going to be really really important when you are talking 550-600chp