Hows it goin i have an 87 iroc it starting running like **** last .ight when me and my gf were cruising in it turned onto a side street and it shut off started up no problem but doesnt want to catch an idle in park if u pump the gas pedal it will sputter and rev up it also backfires thru intake in drive it goes about 2-3mph max spuddering the whole time its done it before i found the maf sensor wires were cracked taped them up and its ran fine for the longest time any ideas

 

Its a 305 tpi

 

Could be a bad fuel pump maybe? when i'm low on gas and turn a corner my car sputters almost shutting off..once its level its fine..
when im really low gas the pump whines.

 

Maybe im gonna check the fuel pressure and some other things today it was too late last night ill post what i find out

 

Went out today and it started just fine ran rough for a min got it down to orielly and hooked up the scanner didnt read any codes dont know if the guy was a dumbass and just didnt know what he was doin or just didnt wanna **** with it but went to leave and the check engine light was off and it ran just fine for awhile then the light came back on and it started running rough again took it to advance they didnt have a scanner but the guy showed me how to stick a paper clip in the harness and read the cod ees by the check engine light blinkin it came up with 33,36,and 42 which is the maf so i bought maf cleaner still runnin like *** but everytime we hook something up to read the codes its like it clears it for a min and then check engine light comes back on and runs rough again

 

Sounds like your MAF circuit wiring issues are back. Need to really check the wiring out between the sensor, relay, and ECM.

BTW, code 33 is MAF circuit high which generally means an open, or a short to power in the sensor signal circuit. Code 36 is a failure in the MAF burn off circuit, code 42 is a failure in the electronic spark timing system. This code is commonly caused by having the timing connector unplugged.

 

it runs fine as long as i dont get on it im gonna run the codes again when i get home appreciate the help thinkin of gettin another maf on friday i read another thread about using a 85 vette maf what do u think

 

I also read the thread on using the 85 Vette MAF. It has to be a Vette MAF. The 85 F body Maf was a different animal and not a good choice. Befor you buy parts, take the time to do some testing. You just need a DVOM and some long test leads. Or better yet, back probe the MAF signal circuit at the ECM. That way you see what the ECM is seeing. Then you can do a continuity test on the wire to be sure the wire isn't open or shorted.

MAF voltage should be around .8 or so at warm idle and jump to around 4.5 on a hard pull. If MAF voltage won't go over 3v at WOT, under load, you likely have a bad MAF. Be sure to verify a solid 12v at pin E of the MAF and a good ground at pin B with the key on.