I've searched this topic however the results all so far ranging that I couldn't reach a conclusion.
I'll ask the question again outright with a few parameters to restrict the obvious answers.
In a Gen 1 SBC 355 c.i. (3.48" stroke) 500 hp application, can a 1053 crank , as in an OEM unit that's been PROPERLY prepped, withstand 6000-6500 rpm for an extended duration. Not so much a road racing piece but an open road event like the Silver State Challenge. No forced induction or nitrous oxide.
This isn't drag racing where we can get away with a lot in terms of outright strength. I want to be WOT for minutes on end.
I don't wish to go into what it takes to build an open road event vehicle, I'd just like to know if a 1053 crankshaft can take the abuse.
Thanks in advance.

 

i have a 4340 crank in my bird and its heavy as hell.... id say its worth it.. my crank was 600 bux.. honestly i would spend the money for the 4340 for peace of mind and do it right the first time... it will be WAY cheaper getting better crank now than to risk ruining the oem type crank and having to rebuild it all over again. ...i hate crossing my fingers hoping something holds or doesnt break... i know when i start finishing modding my 350 up with better heads and a t56 i will be happy that i bought that 4340 crank because it will stand up to any abuse i throw at it.. you dont see too many 500hp 350 with stock type internals revving that high of rpm.. and if they do i wouldnt trust it with that much power because they are on borrowed time.... its the the rear ends in these cars... they are fine but as soon as you start adding power and get slicks and manual its just a matter of time till you break it...

 

Yeh, id say your playing with fire! It may or may not last but 4340 your chances are greatly improved.

 

I'm not saying one way or another what you should do, but here's a data point for your consideration:
I'm running a stock GM cast crank in my ImpalaSS, turning it to 7100 at the dragstrip for 3 seasons, and so far so good. The only "preparation" it was given in the rebuild was polishing the journals.
To me, 6500 rpm, even for extended running, seems like a mild application. Unlike the junk aftermarket cast cranks, the GM castings rarely fail. A rod bearing failure is far more likely. A rebuild with stock rods must ALWAYS include a resizing of the bigends. We found up to .0015" out of round during my rebuild, on an engine that probably never saw more than 5500 rpm in its 90k mile life.

 

[QUOTE=88fastgta;5323076]i have a 4340 crank .....QUOTE]

It seems that the rigors of drag racing aren't those of the open road or a road racing.
I've been using a GM cast crank for several drag racing seasons but felt oblidged to keep my red line at 6500 rpm. I couldn't imagine 6500 for minutes on end flying down some Nevada hiway though.
My reason for asking (1053 vs 4340) is that my old short block with cast crank, resized rods/ARP bolts and hypereutectic pistons is in need of a refresh. To complicate things, I've come across an engine I helped put together a few years back and the shortblock is mine if I want it (for a price of course).
It has a GM forged crank which I understand to be 1053 material, forged Elgin rods and hypereutectic pistons. Less than 20 000 miles old.
Although this lump has been a dragstrip item with 7000 rpm blasts without so much as a hiccup, I'm not sure if it'll stand up to repeating flying mile competition or the like.
Thanks for the input guys.

 

It's off to the machine shop with the short block.
I'll make my decision on whether to proceed with the factory 1053 forging based on the results of the teardown which will include a crack inspection of the crank.