stingerssx

Yeah, yeah, I know. But I'm trying all of the easy stuff first.
So I parked my Bird 3 years ago at a friends house. Didn't think it was going to be over there that long, so I didn't put any fuel stabilizer in the tank. I did go over to start it and move it 1 time. I don't know how long ago, but it ran perfect.
So the last Friday, I went over to bring it home, but couldn't start it. Cranks but no start. It will fire with starting fluid, but quickly stall out. All week long been doing research and testing things. Checked pressure at the rail. Nothing. Towed it home. Checked the relay at the ALDL. Click, Click. Ok. Pulled the fuse for the pump. Put it back. I could swear that I heard something. The pump has always been quiet. Loosened the inlet at the filter, nothing. loosened the outlet. Some left over fuel in the line came out. So tried to hit the tank with a mallet, but couldn't reach it.

I read that there is a connector to jump the pump on the passenger side. Where is it? What does it look like. I want to try that. Also, has anyone else had this happen? Is it possible to bring the pump back from the dead? or maybe it just needs to be cleaned.

I am debating wether or not to cut the trap door for the next time! If I do need to pull the tank, how do I replace the pump, well what I mean is how many lines go to the pump, and how are they connected? With a flexible hose, or hard lines? I've replaced many F/Ps for many other cars, Hondas, Fords, Dodges, Tahoes, Saffari vans, S10s and what ever else, but never a thirdgen.

Thanks in advance.

ChrisC

There are four lines that go to the sending unit and they will all be hard lines unless someone has done the pump before to which you might luckily find quick connects or something. You will get much debate about cutting a trap door. There is a debate under the fabrication section I think. Read it and choose at your own discretion.

stingerssx

Thanks, I believe I read that thread. But what I need to know is where are the four lines connected? And how? Well I guess that I'm gonna have to find out myself.

I messed some more with it the other day. Jumped wires and relays and stuff. Still nothing. I'm wondering if a rat or something might have chewed through the wires. So I'd like to run power directly to the pump. Is that two wire connector up there the one for the fuel pump? Or is it the sender?

eseibel67

You can send power to the fuel pump from under the hood by jumping the relay. There are 3 relays inbetween the brake booster and the driver's side fender, 2 of them are roundish and one of them is more flat. The flat one is the FP relay. You will have 12V at the orange wire, jump that orange wire to the tan wire and the fuel pump should run. If no, I suspect you might have a corrosion problem (because the car was parked outside for so long) at the connector located underneath near where the rear seatback is. If you want to check the pump from back there, you will have to give the tan wire 12V, and the black wire will have to be grounded to test the pump.

afremont

The four lines are metal and come out of the top of the tank, hence why people cut a hatch door. They wrap around the tank and the connectors are near the bottom front of the fuel tank, on the driver's side as I recall. If you cut a hatch in the car, you have to cut all four of the metal lines as well. Please don't do that, just pull the tank to replace the pump and pickup assembly.

The fuel pump prime connector is on the driver's side near the firewall relays. It's a red wire with a connector on it that isn't plugged to anything. You can apply 12V to this and make the pump run.

RodsRideSS

Do your jumper wire test, but also double check for a TWO speed system. TWO resistors...HI & low speed. When you start your engine, HI speed is on for rapid fuel pressure and 2-3 seconds later switchs to LOW. Switch HI again when in the throttle or WOT. Probably through relays.