Hey guys im new to this fourm and hoping someone could help me out with a problem im haveing with my 86 camaro iroc-z.
i just got this car in july. and since i have had it it likes to stall out at lights or when i put it in drive or reverse especially when she gets warmed up.when i start it she will idle all day just the rpms jump up and down fr 800rpm up to 1500 rpm.butwhen i step on the gas she goes lije a bat ou of hell.no hesitation.
the engine was swaped fr the original 305 to a 350.it has had engine work.it has a mild cam,22pnd injecters with heavier springs,high flow vortec heads and ported runners,hollywide mouth throtal body,and a full exhaust system with a stage three shift kit.also she has been getting harder to start she always use to start first turn of the key,now its two or three turns and steping on the gas.and after 10 min of driving engine light comes on with a electronic spark timing code.
this stallinng has me drove crazy.anyone able to help.iv had 100 diff people tell mea 100 diff thing.
please help.thanks in advance.

 

Was it tuned?

 

When was the last time a tune up was done? Cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires? Make sure those are good before you go any further.

The jumping idle could be many things. One of which is arcing plug wires, if they're shorting against the headers/exhaust manifold. Also broken/defective plugs. I had a jumpy tach on my Wife's Alero that turned out to be an cracked spark plug that was arcing to the block.

The jumping RPM could also be a vacuum leak. Get a vacuum gauge and make sure your car is holding vacuum, which could also contribute to the stall If the car wasn't properly tuned after the engine swap, the ECm might not like the lower vacuum or other characteristics of the new motor.

 

As far as i know the engine hasnt been tuned.its just the stock computor settings

 

Well there is your problem.


Thank you Thank you I will be here all week

 

What should the proper vacume gage reading be?im lost when it comes to this ****,but a have a buddy whos a licend mechanic

 

So i need an aftermarket tuner

 

Whoever put the 350 in it should have done the reprogramming. But yes, best is to buy our own and learn how to program it otherwise it'll cost you $400-$500 to have someone competant do it.

Normal vacuum reading should be about 22HG.

However, since there was CAM work done, anything over 16HG is fine. Anything less than 16 and you will start to have issues with your brakes and anything else that needs vacuum to run. The problem is, your ECM won't like that, because it's looking for a stronger vacuum signal. Also it's possible that they didin't upgrade the knock sensor from the 305 to a 350 type. Lastly, you hsould be running 22lb injectors, not 19lb, I doubt they thought of upgrading those at the same time.

I would definitely spend the next few hours using the search function on here looking up your symptoms to see if you can find any additional answers.

 

They did put in 22pound injecters not sure about the knock sensor.

so list of what to do:
1.vacume test
2.tune up(plug,plug wires,and distribtor cap.etc.)
3.get the ecu tuned

Any other suggestions.

 

I would start there. It will never run right without a tune.

 

Will i knock sensor fr any 350 fit cause i have no idea what the engine came out of

 

Ok after a lot of stressing and exspecting the worse,i have solved the problem.it was the distributor cap rotar,the thing was wore right out.she idles at a steady rpm and doesnt stall when put in drive or reverse and when i stop at a light i can drive this car with one foot instead of two.thanks for e suggestion guys muchly appreciated