Roller or not?
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Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 145
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From: Cambridge, MD
Car: 88 Firebird, 87 Formula
Engine: 2.8, 5.0
Transmission: both 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42,3.45
Roller or not?
My '86 Camaro needed a new timing chain set. I purchased a Zoom set at the Advance nearby. The dampener will not line up to the #1 cylinder. I lined the gears at 6 and 12. The timing mark is at 12 o'clock on the timing chain cover, and way off on the dampener. Is this a roller motor? It's a code 'H' 5.0, carburetor. I want to get the right chain set.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Re: Roller or not?
There are two different timing mark location balancers- the 12:00 position one (which it shounds like you have) and the 1:30 position (which lines up with most common factory and aftermarket bolt-on timing tabs over by the driver's side leg of the water pump).
I'm assuming you changed the timing cover or bought a new balancer when you changed the timing chain? One or the other is mismatched and it throws things off by about 35*. Happens all the time.
I'm assuming you changed the timing cover or bought a new balancer when you changed the timing chain? One or the other is mismatched and it throws things off by about 35*. Happens all the time.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
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Re: Roller or not?
If the chain bolted up, it's the right one.
The cam sprocket on a factory roller cam has a different bolt pattern on the front (smaller), so if what you've got bolts up, there's no way you could have the wrong one.
Damon's description of the damper mark problem is exactly correct; that's probably why your "marks" don't line up.
Be aware however, that with the dots on the sprockets at 6 & 12, you are NOT at #1 firing. You're at the other instance of #1 TDC during the engine cycle, at which the #1 exh valve is closing just as the piston reaches TDC and the int is opening. At that same time, the #6 piston is ALSO at TDC, and THAT'S the one that's firing right then. If you turn the crank exactly one full turn from there (both dots at 12), #1 will again be at TDC, but this time, it will be at firing, and #6 will be at "valves swapping over". The timing mark will of course be at the same (evidently wrong) spot both times.
When you put the dist in, have the motor sitting at about 15° before the firing instance of #1 TDC. Drop in the dist at the spot where the rotor points at the #1 terminal, just to the driver's side of straight ahead, when it settles all the way down. (It'll run no matter where it points as long as that's where you put the #1 wire and then all the rest in the firing order, but that's the factory spot for it, so the wires route around the dist the most neatly there) Look down in the dist at the star wheel teeth, and adjust the dist body until the teeth line up. It'll start RIGHT UP that way, and the timing will be real close to spot on.
If you really give a rip about some "mark" (personally, I don't), set the motor to EXACTLY #1 TDC, you can use either instance of that either #1 or #6 firing, and make a new one on your damper to correspond to wherever your replacement pointer happens to have its "0".
The cam sprocket on a factory roller cam has a different bolt pattern on the front (smaller), so if what you've got bolts up, there's no way you could have the wrong one.
Damon's description of the damper mark problem is exactly correct; that's probably why your "marks" don't line up.
Be aware however, that with the dots on the sprockets at 6 & 12, you are NOT at #1 firing. You're at the other instance of #1 TDC during the engine cycle, at which the #1 exh valve is closing just as the piston reaches TDC and the int is opening. At that same time, the #6 piston is ALSO at TDC, and THAT'S the one that's firing right then. If you turn the crank exactly one full turn from there (both dots at 12), #1 will again be at TDC, but this time, it will be at firing, and #6 will be at "valves swapping over". The timing mark will of course be at the same (evidently wrong) spot both times.
When you put the dist in, have the motor sitting at about 15° before the firing instance of #1 TDC. Drop in the dist at the spot where the rotor points at the #1 terminal, just to the driver's side of straight ahead, when it settles all the way down. (It'll run no matter where it points as long as that's where you put the #1 wire and then all the rest in the firing order, but that's the factory spot for it, so the wires route around the dist the most neatly there) Look down in the dist at the star wheel teeth, and adjust the dist body until the teeth line up. It'll start RIGHT UP that way, and the timing will be real close to spot on.
If you really give a rip about some "mark" (personally, I don't), set the motor to EXACTLY #1 TDC, you can use either instance of that either #1 or #6 firing, and make a new one on your damper to correspond to wherever your replacement pointer happens to have its "0".
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 145
Likes: 1
From: Cambridge, MD
Car: 88 Firebird, 87 Formula
Engine: 2.8, 5.0
Transmission: both 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42,3.45
Re: Roller or not?
Thank you Damon and Sofa for your replies. The car is all original, 1986, but GM always likes to throw a monkey wrench into everything. The timing cover is set up like my 87 Formula ( which I know is a roller!). I will review your directions, and report back soon. I work evenings, but I am off tomorrow.
Charles
Charles
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