Im not 100% on that. i think its through photobucket and typing the location of the pic in this box but dont quote me on that!

 

I bet that thing was a little dirty.

 

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/...psf1bc5088.png?

 

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1357617627

 

I dont think I did that right hahahaha

 

Wow. good before and after pics. It was filthy! Wasnt it a pain to get running after that long?

 

bth_TransAmdusty_zpsf1bc5088.png?t=1357617697

 

bth_TransAm_zps19597bdc.png?t=1357617627

 

Ok that worked. Now everybody can see why im trying so hard, this thing has never had a wire cut or anything removed and all the original sales receipts.

 

actually not at first, new fuel pump and tires and all the fluids at first. dint even smoke when it started.

 

Thats the worst part when you have to go messing with everything when something goes wrong and its never been touched!

 

Id post a pic of mine but i havent got a clue

 

Funny thing is i see your location says kentucky and thats where im at. I hope this problem isnt just a kentucky thing! LOL

 

The second pic was when i got it home, about an hour after i took the first pic. Its never even seen rain before now.

 

What Part Ky?

 

Western, by indiana

 

Im Eastern, lived in Henderson awhile though for work.

 

It doesn't like being in a Ford household ?

I hope you can get it sorted out soon, you are more patient than I am ! A manifold, distributor and carburetor would have found its way onto it, if it was causing me problems like that !

P.s. I'm sure it's something simple !

 

cool. might have seen you somewhere and never knew it.haha

 

always is..............

 

Im getting overcome with GM's lately, his Trans Am and her Vette and my Mustang and F150. Oh and my D@mn camper even has a 400 small block hahahaha

 

i wouldnt have it any other way

 

Ok guys ill update when i get that knock sensor changed, off to bed. After 8 hours of working on that thing non stop im a little tired.

 

I would try that knock sensor
get a good brand, there are diff between part #s. It work off hz frequency. Learned thi while tuning my holley hp. Here is a little link to burn your mind on knock hz.

http://forums.holley.com/showthread....-knock-sensors

Interesting stuff

 

Here is another good link for your condition:

http://www.corvettebuyers.com/c4vettes/l98.htm

 

Here is an explaination of code 42:

Check wiring at ignition module. Replace ignition module. Possible ECM failure

 

......... The scan shows spark advance at 0 ... no spark advance will cause it to run rich ... will also cause the Idle air control to open wide ( 144 ) ... and will keep the ECM from allowing closed loop ... I strongly suggest you check / change the Ignition control module , make sure you put the dielectric grease under it ... and the Electronic spark control module .....

 

Ive replaced the module twice and tested the old when i returned it, it checked out good but replaced it anyway. Im a descent mechanic but this thing has me stumped, I did order a new radio resister so i could replace the wires inside the distibutor. It acts like something electrical breaking down but when i unplugged the EST wire last night it started right up!

 

Im aso gonna add when i got the top end back together (new injectors) and timed it at 6 degrees with the EST unplugged it ran hot around 220 or better and idled around 500 rpm's. I was thinking about bumping up the timing just a liitle today but dont think that'll help the thing from quitting after a couple miles.

 

You test the coil?

 

Coils don't fail like that. They either work or they don't.

 

Because you disabled the timing . It doesn't start because the computer is retarding the timing so much that it will not start. It is sensing detonation or spark knock for whatever reason bad enough that it pulls the timing completely out of it causing it to stall.

 

Coils sometimes when hot short out. Ive been through this with msd replacement coils on these cars. They short out after running x amount of time. Seen it. Doesnt take long to test the ohms across three points before and after it stalls. If it isnt the distributor or the module, last on the list is ecm. What is your engine code? Ill check my helm and post the page here for reference.

 

 

they may break down and not work to full potential. but as far as it working, stop working, and work again is not the way a coil operates.

 

The power that the 12 volt battery used in the car it tends to produce is insufficient to trigger the spark necessary to facilitate explosion, and this is where the 'ignition coil' comes into the picture. It converts the battery's 12 volt power into 40 kV power required to create the spark. In other words, it is an induction coil which converts the relatively weak power from the battery to enormous power amounting to 40 kV that is required to produce the spark which ignites the air fuel mixture in the ignition system. The current from the battery begins building up when the contact breaker closes, and continues until it reaches its maximum capacity. Once it reaches its full capacity, the contact breaker opens and the high voltage spark is produced. If the ignition coil is not there, the 12v DC battery on board the vehicle is of no use as such little amount of power is not sufficient for creating the spark that's required to produce the explosion of the fuel-air mixture in the engine. While some of these coils resort to resistor to reduce the voltage, others rely on a resistor wire or an external resistor to facilitate the same.

Basically, the ignition coil is made up of two coils of wire - placed one on the top of the other. These coils are also referred to as windings - with the first coil being referred to as 'primary coil', while the second coil - which is wrapped around the primary coil, being referred to as 'secondary coil'. As far as the number of 'turns' in either of these are concerned, the number of turns in secondary coil is in multiples of the number of turns in its primary counterpart. The current flows from the battery through the primary coil wherein it is collected together to produce the required spark - which is eventually sent to the distributor by the secondary coil. In order to make sure that the tremendous amount of heat generated in this process doesn't harm the coil, it is filled with oil acts as a coolant for the device. While some engine models are equipped with a single ignition coil, others have one each for every spark plug. In case of models with single spark plug, a distributor is used to distribute the spark to the appropriate spark plug.

You also need to be well-versed with ignition coil problems that can turn out to be utter nuisance at times. Of the various ignition problems that you are likely to face, weak spark and coil not firing are the ones which are attributed to the ignition coil. In his case when the car dies id bet if you pull the coil wire and crank it its still firing.

 

I replaced the coil once but it wont take that long to replace it again, I just went out and checked something though. I put the timing light back on it and still at 6 degrees with EST wire unhooked it advances when i rev it up. When I connect the EST wire and rev it it does the same thing. Am i right in saying the control module will advance the timing by 10 degrees or something like that?

 

One more question, will the coil heating up and breaking down cause the code EST problem?

 

bth_50TPI_zps37e148b5.jpg?t=1357679848

 

No. the problem your having isnt caused by the coil. Did you do the knock sensor yet?

 

No I havent picked up a new knock sensor yet, honestly dont feel like worikng on it today hahahaha

 

Bingo. Change your knock sensor.

 

Alright I changed the knock sensor and reset the computer, drove it around the block a couple times and after a mile or two the check engine light would come on just for a second and the engine would stumble. When the light would go out the engine would straighten right up. Pulled the codes and the dreaded 42 is back, called Napa and they have one so return the other to Advance and try that. Like always any help is appreciated

 

Control Module i meant to put in there

 

It sounds like it keeps detecting spark knock or detonation! It stumbles because the computer thinks it needs to pull all of the timing out for whatever reason. It runs fine when it turns off because the timing goes back to normal.

 

So would you suggest a module and coil change?

 

That shouldn't have anything to do with an issue like that. Have you checked the timing by chance. I couldn't remember if you did.

 

Yea I checked it with the EST wire still hooked up, it was at 6 degrees. Should it be at something else with the wire hooked up. I know I initially timed it at 6 degrees with the wire unhooked.

 

Let me just clarify something...

When you said module, were you referring to your ICM, or the EST module...?

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...216_0168412117

 

That sounds fine. But the computer is sensing it somehow. The only way it does is through the knock sensor. I wish you weren't 500 miles away we could swap a computer and make sure that didn't fail.