I was just wondering which noid fuel injector test light will work with my 80s tpi 350 motor, because the list below are all the ones I can find available and none say TPI so which of these will work if any at all, thanx alot also

GM TBI,
GM SCPI,
GM PFI,
Ford TBI,
GEO TBI,
Bosch PFI

 

3 and 6 maybe the same or it may say GM mpfi

 

You should read your last thread from a week ago.

 

the last thread you said mpfi and there is no such thing according to ebay, autozone, and o'rielys that is why i made this thread, so the Gm pfi one will work

 

Port or multi port same same

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/buy...lty-tools.html

 

Please, please, please get a Factory service manual from HELM inc.

 

Ok well i guess the kit that comes with all listed above is what i have to get for the $25 since the single noid lights arent stocked and they are only $15

 

Oh thanx for that link, but i have checked all my local parts suppliers and none have them in stock, but wether i buy the kit or order the ingle one thanx for assuring me which one to get

 

Your parts stores must suck I have seen the oem brand at oriely for $10 or less

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/buy...lty-tools.html

 

I have used these B4
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062570

 

Don't forget a 1k resister

 

Wait so could i hook up 2 wires one pos, and one neg to a led light and then use that to check if the injectors are getting the signal to open or whatever?

 

What do you mean a 1k resistor?

 

You can use a led with a 1k resister across the injector power and ground. The 1k resister will prevent the smoke from coming out of the led.

 

Oh I see I thought you meant to buy one when i got the noid light, So basicaly im just going to use the led light i have hook up some 16 ga wire to grounded spot, then one wire to the injector harness clip, or do i split one wire from led to ground to one thing on wiring harness then take a wire from led to other tab on wiring harness with the resistor in between both somwhere near led, thanx and sorry or complicated question

 

with a noid light, you don't need anything else.
you unplug the injector connector & plug the noid light into the connector. one side of the connector is hot, the other is ground controlled by the ECM.

 

Sorry I brought the confusion, ugh.. OP buy the correct noid light and a factory service manual, read it cover to cover then and only then, tinker with your truck.

 

FYI - I found a set at Harbor Frieght

 

lol I have never messed with a fuel injected motor before so i like to ask alot of questions first before doing something WITH IT, but trust me i understand everything i have heard in this thread as its all very simple to understand, i just like to check with people first so it makes stuff easy.

 

Ok I just got done checking with the noid test light and well it did nothing, i pluged it in the injectors harness and turned key on, and no light, theni unplugged and plugged back in with key still on and nothing, and nothing when trying to start either, so its not getting a signal from the ecu rite

 

I think you stated in another post you have power to the injectors, if thats the case do you have spark ? You may have a bad icm or this maybe a vats issue !

 

If power to the injectors is checked by using the meter on the injectors top, then ya i got .17ohms, so thats why i think its a bad computer right, or whats the icm ignition controll module? and i should have spark since it will start with gas threw the throttle body on plenum then die in a few seconds so?

 

check power to the injectors on 12v dc setting, the icm is the ignition control module it sends a tach pulse to the ecm to fire the injectors and controls the coil ground for ignition spark. You can still have spark but still have a bad icm.

 

Ok so I guess we have established that the injectors arent getting a signal and it's either the vats (if it has one), the icm, or the ecu rite? If so how do i get that number to check if it has vats or not, and how can i check the icm

 

parts stores can test icm's, the memcal numbers will identify if the ecm's programing contains vats.

 

Ok well can you work with me hear, alright so the icm is going to be located near the dash or in the motor bay, but when i looked up icm and there was one for $55 on ebay and its the only one but I have never seen the icm yet but im guessing its going to be near ignition or pluged in it maybe? Oh and like a autozone or napa can test it and how much about, thanx by the way for all the help

 

I don't know how much parts stores charge to test the icm I built a test bench to test them. The icm is located inside the distributor and has a heat sink paste underneath it.

 

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_ic...n_module_1.php

 

Ok thanks for that link because now i can buy a spark tester tommoro and that will eliminate the wires,plugs,ignition controll, and the pick up coil, if i get spark on all the plugs so ill keep you updated

 

Ok this is the only spark tester that they have stocked at my store but it doesnt look like its the rite thing, can someone check this link just to make sure.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...fier=10257_0_0_

 

That will work screw it all the way out your coil can produce up to 45kv

 

Ok ill see what happens tommoro and hopefully its just a bad pick up coil (easy replace)

 

if it is a pickup coil you will need a timing light and will need to pull the distributor.

 

Oh but the pick up coil is sitting like a half a foot from the distributor its not under it?
Anyways i got the spark tester shown in the link above and i tested the first plug and will test the rest with my sisters help in awhile but basicaly plug the one end in each plug and ground it and it should spark back and forth alot, then thats it after checking all 8 rite?

 

The ignition coil maybe a remote mount but the pickup coil is in the distributor. If you have a strong blueish yellow color spark on one cylinder chances are you will have spark on the other cylinders but this does not rule out the vats or a bad icm.

 

Test one per side, each injector fuse protects 4 injectors.

 

so how was this supposed to rule out the icm, because the link said if they all get spark then its good?
Also im not testing the injectors still I already did that the other day rgarcia63

 

you never stated if you are getting power to the injectors with the key on. and you said your noid is not blinking when you crank the engine over. possible causes bad icm, bad ecm ground, bad ecm wiring back to the ecm on the purple white wire open or grounded or the vats is stopping injector pulse.

post #25

 

My multimeter says dc then 10A under that and im about to go check with that setting, and on 9v BAT. LOAD TEST setting, which is what i check my battery volts with usually. (ill be back)

 

I got nothing on those 2 settings anyways im guessing my meter doesnt have the rite setting then. But i did set it to 200 ohms and checked injector plug and got 3ohms, I dont know if that helps but, I also looked under steering column and saw 15 wires going up the column and 10 were to one huge plug connector and the other 5 went elsewhere, so maybe i can see if it has vats this way? because i cant find any info on google where to find the memcal number at on the ecu

 

the dc 10 amp sounds like a ammeter, you stated earlier the noid light didn't even come on with the key on so the ecm injector driver is bad or the injector power fuses are blown or the ecm ground has a connection issue.

 

If the car is cranking (not firing) with spark then the ICM might not be sending a pulse to the ECM and in turn to pulse/fire the injectors? If this is true, how could one lie to the ECM and tell it to pulse the injectors? Hope this is not a hijack.

 

Ok so the icm isnt the problem? Also where are these ecm grounds located at? Oh and what do you mean the injector drivers I have never heard about that

 

If your asking if your icm is bad and you can trick the ecm to fire the injectors then id have to say most likely not lol but then agin im new to this whole fuel delivery type of system so who knows.

 

I think you could take the ignition white wire tach signal and tie it to the reference pulse high signal to send a 5v square wave signal to the ecm.

The grounds for the ecm should be behind the passenger side cylinder head.
The light blue wire on the injectors for cylinders 1,3,5,7 are the ground side of the injectors.
The light green wire on the injectors for cylinders 2,4,6,8 are the ground side of the injectors.

The pink/blk are the keyed hot 12v to the injectors.

 

you really need to get a test light or figure out your vom to see if you have power to the injectors.

 

ok so im very confused rite now but i understood what you said about the grounds but the injectors plugs go to a harness so i dont think ill be tearing up the harness to check those grounds but the ecm ground is basicaly on the back of the block bolted to the motor??? And if it is how can i see and or make a better connection with it if its back there lol sounds like im reading something wrong

 

How much will this cost?