Motor mount 1990 Z28
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 8
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From: Sacramento
Car: 1990 Iroc Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Motor mount 1990 Z28
Any tips on replacing motor mounts would be greatly appreciated . Doing it in my garage with the engine in. Also what are the best replacements ?
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 9
From: Northern, CA
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: Motor mount 1990 Z28
I used the Energy Suspension Polyurethane mounts and am glad I did. I don't want to go through that again for a very long time. By myself and for the first time it was a nightmare. If you go through the springs like I did than I ended up using 2 or 3 wobbler's on the end of my extension. I wrapped them lightly with electrical tape so they could move but not flop around. You may have a different part # but this is what I used. I don't really care for red suspension parts but decided to go with red on the mounts.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-ih4iuZa046d
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-ih4iuZa046d
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; Mar 22, 2013 at 04:14 AM.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,874
Likes: 2,431
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Motor mount 1990 Z28
Raise the car as high as practical, and support securely on jack stands located as far as practical from the scene of the impending crime.
Raise the engine from above, like with a cherry picker, rather than from below, as with a jack.
The bolts that hold them in have lock nuts inside the K member. The only thing that's really "hard", is holding the nuts still while backing out the bolts. It helps to have 2 people for this step.
One of those wrenches that has an extra elbow in it right behind the head, might be a good investment.
It's ALOT easier, almost actually "easy" in fact, if you remove the control arm through-bolts and let the arms down. You don't have to take them completely "off", but consider it a great opportunity to do so. If the car needs those bushings replaced, or new springs, do it at the same time.
Raise the engine from above, like with a cherry picker, rather than from below, as with a jack.
The bolts that hold them in have lock nuts inside the K member. The only thing that's really "hard", is holding the nuts still while backing out the bolts. It helps to have 2 people for this step.
One of those wrenches that has an extra elbow in it right behind the head, might be a good investment.
It's ALOT easier, almost actually "easy" in fact, if you remove the control arm through-bolts and let the arms down. You don't have to take them completely "off", but consider it a great opportunity to do so. If the car needs those bushings replaced, or new springs, do it at the same time.
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