I finally got me another 3rd gen but a Camaro
But the problem I have is the motor is not firing at all
It’s got a 355 W/ comp cam and 5speed, hei setup but nofire........

Another thing my header burnt up my starter wire it’s a little red wire on the same post as the main battwire....don’t know if it’s a jumper wire or not?

I was sitting in traffic when it cut off on me.. running240F

 

Going to need a lot more info than that.
EFI or carb?
Back to basics
Have you got fuel in the cylinders?
Does the pump run?
Have you got spark at the plugs?
Do you have power at the coil?
If you are missing one or the other the engine won't fire up

Have you actually got fuel in the tank ?( not by the gauge )

 

It's carbed
No more electric fuel pump
I haven't got that far to check for spark
It's got fuel in tank
It was to late to check everything

But the wire on starter is on the main wire from the starter..is it a jumper wire for starter

 

No
More likely it is a main power feed to something ( like your coil that makes the SPARK )!
Connecting a wire to the starter terminal gives you power just the same as if you hooked a wire up direct to Batt POS (+) terminal

 

That wire came off starter ... But if it did ran to something I can't find the other half lol

 

That is probably one of three fuse links that originally came from the battery post of the starter to power various circuits on the car. Since the car has obviously been altered, it's hard to say what that fuse link goes to now. Safe bet that it powers the ignition coil through the switch.

 

Has no spark but has power to distributor

 

time to start testing
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_ic...n_module_4.php

 

I have the coil in the distributor.. So how would I test it

 

The coil in cap HEIs have had trouble with the cap burning out around the button that connects the coil output to the rotor. I would start by pulling the cap and visually inspecting the rotor, the button, and the cap around the button. It will be obvious if the cap is burned out as the plastic will be melted. This will require the coil and cap to be replaced. If the cap looks okay, then you need to start testing. First, use a 12v test light to check for primary ignition pulse to the coil. You say you have 12v on the pink or red BATT wire. You should also get a flashing light at the white wire(B-) of the coil, with the test light ground clamp grounded. If you have a flash here and the cap and rotor are okay, the problem is with the coil. If no flash, disconnect the three pin connector to the coil/cap and try the same flash test at the disconnected B- terminal of the connector with the test light's ground clamp on Batt +. If you get a flash this way, you likely have a bad coil. Test the coil between B- and B+ with an ohmmeter. It should read between .5 and 1 ohm. Testing the coil also involves checking secondary resistance and for a short between the windings and the frame. There are complete coil test instructions in the "no start, no spark" test for HEI.

You may also have a bad ICM, a bad pick up coil, or a faulty harness in the distributor. If the tests above don't point to a problem, you need to follow the GM "no start, no spark test for HEI. As far as I remember, it's test A12 in the factory service information. I don't have a way to post a link to my service info and my scanner is broken so I can't scan pages from my 87 Helms manual. Do a search on this forum. I'm sure that someone has posted this test sequence at some point. Oh, also try unplugging what ever Tach is connected to the TACH connector of the dist as a shorted tach circuit will ground the B- pulse and kill spark too.

 

My tach side of my hei has fire (test light grounded the stuck in tach side)
Went ahead and bought a msd coil for it still no spark
The cap looks burnt on inside prongs but doesn't look burnt enough to keep from running

 

By "has fire" do you mean the light flashes when you crank the engine? A steady light just means that you're getting power through the primary side of the coil. That doesn't mean you're getting the B- pulse to ground that charges the coil. The flash you see at this terminal with the test light grounded is the inductive snap as the primary coil circuit is opened and the built up current is released. It is this release of current that induces the high voltage in the secondary winding of the coil.

This first test is checking both the ICM's coil driver, which grounds the coil primary on the B- circuit, and the coil's primary winding. If the coil primary is shorted, there will be no flash in this test because the primary coil won't produce the magnetic field necessary to produce inductive voltage. You'll just see the 12 volts through the shorted winding from B+. If the coil is open, you won't get any light at all.

The test where you attach the test light to Batt+ with the coil disconnected determines whether the ICM is actually grounding B-. This doesn't even mean for sure that the ICM can support the necessary current draw produced by the coil. Even though you get a flash in this test, you could still have ICM trouble. However, in every case where I have had a flash in this test, The ICM proved okay and I got spark with a new coil. The harness in the base of the dist can come apart and short to the case so be sure to check it for broken insulation and good terminal contact. Keep in mind that ICM failure is common, pick up coil failure is right behind it.

The thing that sucks about testing coil in cap HEI is that there is no coil wire to check for spark on in order to eliminate problems in the cap and rotor. It isn't that uncommon to have the rotor short through to the dist shaft and this will kill spark.

 

I'll turn key on and light is steady on b-
But like I said I got a new msd coil
When I turn key off both b+ and b- are grounded witch I thing is normal but when key on both wires have fire (test light lights up) when light is grounded is it normal
I have no one to crank motor to test b-
Could my module be bad

Like I said I had a little red wire on starter that touched the header and started sparking could it have shorted something out for my ignition?

 

The power supply shorting shouldn't have harmed the module. The high current load from the short would have been on the other side of the short. Did you fix the wire? I almost always work alone. I hate to pull the other techs away from their work to crank an engine for me. I have become very good at setting up equipment to test things by myself. Get, or make, a test lead using a length of wire and two alligator clips. Use a small paper clip as a back probe to connect to the B- terminal, connect one end of your test lead to the paperclip and the other end to the point of the test light and set the light on the cowl where you can see it from the driver's seat while you crank the engine. Since you've replaced the coil, the coil probably isn't the problem. But are you sure that the cap, rotor, and all connections to the coil, including the little ground strap, are all solid? Did you verify to the best of your ability that the rotor is grounding to the shaft?

For the other B- flash test, use a 1/4" male spade connector to connect to the B- terminal of the three wire connector. Then use the test lead to connect to the test light and set it up so you can see it while you crank the engine.

If you can't get these tests down and verify what's going on, you could throw parts at this problem til your money's all gone and it still won't be fixed.

 

i went ahead and replaced cap, rotor button, coil. still no spark
test light doesnt flash stays steady when cranking

 

The steady light either means that the coil is shorted or that the ICM is not grounding the B- circuit. Since you've already eliminated the coil by replacing it, you need to have the ICM tested. Many parts stores can do this, as long as they have the tool. You can do it yourself with an ohmmeter if you know how to go through the factory test sequence but it's easiest just to have it done.

 

I finally got it running again
The module wen bad in the distributor got it back in timing
Runs like a top and loving the bump stick in it

Thinks for the help man