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Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 02:09 PM
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Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Spent the last week or so searching and reading, so please forgive me if some of this has been asked before. I've just found a lot of usefull, yet conflicting information in regards to my setup.

Can anyone think of anything else I would need to do with this combination I am running. I plan on buttoning up the engine this coming week so I want to make sure I don't over look anything, ruin something, or hit a road block that someone else could make me aware of.

I had my numbers 1987 L98 block machined along with the 083 heads. I had the block bored 30, had the crank ground and polished. Had the block tanked and fluxed and bearings installed. I am running KB flat top 4 valve pistons. Heads had 3 angle, and port n polish. I took them back today and had new springs to accommodate 1.6RR's, screw in studs and guides and anything else needed. I know there not Vortecs and some guys frown on putting this type of work into 083 TPI heads, but I like them and would rather stick with them. I have read numerous times that 083's done right with a good port job flow just as well or better than stock vortecs. I also at the time didn't want to go with a different intake so that was another reason with sticking with them initially.

I plan to run LT4 Hotcam along with 1.6RR's. I tried asking the guy questions but it seems when you ask a machine shop owner questions and you mention anything about reading something online or on a forum, they seem to get pissy?!. I was trying to find out for a fact with this block and heads, changing the rockers and LT4 cam would I also need to change push rod length or go to a hardened pushrod or a specific kind or if anyone who has done this same setup knows the correct length. I will also be running stock style roller lifters.

I know alot of guys have done this on Vortec blocks and Vortec heads and the consensus was yes, new pushrods needed to be installed as the geometry would change too much and it would cause the pushrod to bind. I Wanted to make sure I needed to do this as well on the L98 with 083's with the setup I am going to run.

I was going to stick with the stock TPI setup and possibly just do SLP runners. I had read the main choke point on these engines is the TPI can't flow enough air past a certain RPM, even more so when the hotcam is installed. So doing any major head work would be a waste without upgrading air flow through them. So I ordered a HSR (Weiand) with BBK TB. I have tall valve covers already to accommodate the rockers. I already have all the items for the HSR like fuel rail, and 24lbs injectors. I plan to get a tune but I am really leaning towards an alternative option like a megasquirt or Accel control module to handle everything.

Am I missing anything major I need to swap or upgrade outside of what I have already done? I will be running 55HV oil pump, and I went with a standard single row HD timing chain I read was good with these blocks. I am mainly looking for input from those who have been down this road before and have sound experience on what works and what doesn't. If I need to go with a different cam or lifters please feel free to throw it out there. This car is my weekend toy but also a backup driver so I don't mind a rough idle but I also don't want to run a huge stall or canister for vacuum.


Thanks in advance for any help and pardon if some of this is repetitive questions.
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 09:52 AM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

+1 on the tune
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 09:59 AM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Sounds close to my build, different cam, and I went with slp runners this time.

If you aren't milling the heads a bunch, stick pushrods should be fine, but it's always good to use a checker.

I would recommend a standard volume oil pump.
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 10:10 AM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

On the timing chain, I'd recommend running the Cloyes True Roller, double row unit. That's what I used on my L98 and it works wonderfully. The Hot Cam should agree quite nicely with a Stealth Ram intake.
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 11:35 AM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Originally Posted by Pat Hall
On the timing chain, I'd recommend running the Cloyes True Roller, double row unit. That's what I used on my L98 and it works wonderfully. The Hot Cam should agree quite nicely with a Stealth Ram intake.
Only reason I didn't go double roller was the 20 or so threads I came across where people had clearance issues. Everyone recommended the Chevrolet Performance 12371043 HD timing chain for easy fitment and non stretch. I wanted a Cloyes as I have lived by them on every other car until I read the responses.
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 11:36 AM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Originally Posted by Johnny Blaze
Sounds close to my build, different cam, and I went with slp runners this time.

If you aren't milling the heads a bunch, stick pushrods should be fine, but it's always good to use a checker.

I would recommend a standard volume oil pump.
I had read some places that the HV would be over kill. I can take it back I guess, I just didn't want to NOT have adequate oil pressure on a new engine. I wanted to make sure everything was getting lubricated very well.
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 02:49 PM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Last few smallblocks I have built, I used a standard melling pump, 60 psi ilde cold, 20psi idle warm, 30 psi cruising at 2500rpm, give or take a few.

I also am using the single roller on my l98.
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 10:10 AM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Originally Posted by Johnny Blaze
Last few smallblocks I have built, I used a standard melling pump, 60 psi ilde cold, 20psi idle warm, 30 psi cruising at 2500rpm, give or take a few.

I also am using the single roller on my l98.
Gotcha... I ordered a standard melling pump. I had upgraded my pan to the 5qt pan and the parts store only had the 55hv in at the time so thats why I went with it as well. After reading about the HV running even 5qt pans dry on stock oil return engines I would rather not try to use it.
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 10:20 AM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Originally Posted by Johnny Blaze
I went with slp runners this time.
So your running identical setup minus the cam and HSR I will be running? I was trying to get info on which would be more beneficial, affordable and cost effective on the SLP vs HSR. I know I would have more into the HSR when it's done and the SLP would be easy to port match and toss on, but I wasn't sure if the SLP's would flow enough still or would the matchup with ported 083's on the hot cam be a compliment to it. Are you running aftermarket engine management or do you just have a tune done? I was looking into megasquirt, Accel, or possibly getting the hardware to tune myself. I am not an expert on tuning by any means, I am a Software Engineer so I have a little capacity for picking up on things like this. I just want to make sure I am going the right direction so looking to see what others have ran with similar setup.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:57 AM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Huh, I never noticed others saying they've had clearance issues with the Cloyes double roller chains. I'm running the True Roller double chain behind a stock 1988 L98 timing cover and haven't had any problems. As far as oil pump goes, I put in the Melling high volume and used the stiffer spring they included with the pump. My 60 psi gauge is pegged when the motor is cold. Once it's good and warmed up it drops down to around 50-55 psi. I'm also running the stock 5 qt. pan, and I've never had it run dry so far. Guess I've been lucky on both.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 09:38 AM
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From: Charlestown, IN
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Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

You can have too much oil pressure and volume. All the big name SBC builders, always say not to use High volume, high pressure pumps.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 09:40 AM
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From: Charlestown, IN
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Originally Posted by CreativeIndy
So your running identical setup minus the cam and HSR I will be running? I was trying to get info on which would be more beneficial, affordable and cost effective on the SLP vs HSR. I know I would have more into the HSR when it's done and the SLP would be easy to port match and toss on, but I wasn't sure if the SLP's would flow enough still or would the matchup with ported 083's on the hot cam be a compliment to it. Are you running aftermarket engine management or do you just have a tune done? I was looking into megasquirt, Accel, or possibly getting the hardware to tune myself. I am not an expert on tuning by any means, I am a Software Engineer so I have a little capacity for picking up on things like this. I just want to make sure I am going the right direction so looking to see what others have ran with similar setup.
Pretty much,

Check out my build thread.

I ran a HSP before and was tempted to go with one again, but I wanted the TPI look, and got a great deal on SLP runners.

I am porting the crap out of my Base and SLP runners now. I am running factory ECM with a tune. My stuff is still apart atm.
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Old May 2, 2013 | 07:30 AM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Originally Posted by Johnny Blaze
You can have too much oil pressure and volume. All the big name SBC builders, always say not to use High volume, high pressure pumps.
Yeah I agree, it is possible to go overkill on oil pressure, but I do like the fact that I have a solid 60 psi or better when I first crank up, then down to around 50-55 psi when it's nice and warmed up!
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Old May 2, 2013 | 08:11 AM
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From: Charlestown, IN
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Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

GM engineers say 10psi per 1000 rpm.


Just like your blood pressure, higher is not better.


I have a solid 60 psi when cold, even with an old small block. At operating temp its 20psi at idle, plenty.
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Old May 2, 2013 | 09:41 AM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

On my fresh motor, my warm idle (550rpm) psi is around 10psi. I have one of those standard psi/ volume anti-cavitation at high rpm pumps and high psi pin oiling solid roller lifters sooo that sucks a bit of volume and psi.
She cranks right up to 55psi cold then 35 at 2800rpm.
Its a bit nerve racking some times but it'll be just fine.
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Old May 3, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Originally Posted by Pat Hall
Huh, I never noticed others saying they've had clearance issues with the Cloyes double roller chains. I'm running the True Roller double chain behind a stock 1988 L98 timing cover and haven't had any problems. As far as oil pump goes, I put in the Melling high volume and used the stiffer spring they included with the pump. My 60 psi gauge is pegged when the motor is cold. Once it's good and warmed up it drops down to around 50-55 psi. I'm also running the stock 5 qt. pan, and I've never had it run dry so far. Guess I've been lucky on both.
Yea I am not sure... I just know that a simple "Double Roller Clearance Issue" search in google will return pages on pages of links from this forum and Corvette forum, and a few others on this exact issue with the double rollers. The consensus seemed to be to use the Chevrolet Performance HD single row chain. I believe the clearance issue was on the top gear behind the sprocket between it and the block rubbing. Either way, I didn't want to grind anything down or take a chance so I went with the HD chain. Good to know some don't have the issue though
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Old May 3, 2013 | 04:37 PM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

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Old May 3, 2013 | 04:49 PM
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Re: Bolting my L98 back together, need some input.

Input eh? I don't have much input sad to say HAHA... My only input is I came home to several large UPS and FedEx boxes today. Included in them were my heads back from machine, my hotcam, comp magnum rollers, LS Roller lifters, chromoly push-rods, head gaskets, ARP engine bolt kit, regulator for the HSR, belt drive pullys and belt, aluminum alternator and PS brackets, the correct M55 oil pump, 5qt oil pan, and a slew of other gaskets and my plug wires. I ordered it all from summit and jegs and I guess they are day shipping as I half expected this all to come next week.

Need my HSR I bought from a member on here to show on Monday and I will be slapping this engine in on Monday if everything goes back together correctly.
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