I'm hoping someone here can help, I'm out of ideas and at the end of my rope. Sorry for the long post, but I want to provide as much information as possible to try and get an answer.

First, the particulars: 383 SBC with Edelbrock Performer RPM 6089 cylinder heads and Scorpion narrow body self-aligning rockers (They can be viewed here). Because the rockers are self-aligning, no guide plates were used.

There are a million posts & articles about how to properly adjust the valves. The method I used each time was to bring the #1 cylinder to TDC, then adjust 8 of the valves (I don't remember which 8 right now, but they are listed in many of these articles). Then, I hand spun the engine 360 degrees to bring #6 to TDC and then adjusted the remaining 8 valves. I'm 100% confident that I'm adjusting them correctly, save for what I say about my 0 lash below.

When I was first trying to get the car running (in October), one of the poly locks fell off and a rocker came loose. At that point, I assumed the engine builder I used didn't have it on properly, so I went and readjusted all 16 valves per above, at zero lash I tightened the nut another 1/2 turn, tightened the allen head to lock the nut down and done.

After barely driving the car all winter, I recently got it on the road. About 3 weeks ago, I heard one of the lifters start ticking. About a day later, the tick became a loud banging - another one of the poly lock nuts came off while driving, as did the rocker arm.

I took both sides apart, followed the same procedure as above and then this time turned the nut an extra 3/4 of a turn. Got done, car ran like crap & I still had some noise. I checked cylinder temperature, one of the cylinders was much colder than all of the rest. So I took the car to my brothers' shop and started over - following the same procedure as before, I adjusted each valve, had him check them (he's been a mechanic for 30+ years), then turned the nut 1 full turn extra. Got done, started it up - and they are still making noise.

Now, here is the odd thing - when adjusting them to 0 lash, there is definitely no up-and-down movement, but for lack of a better term the rockers rock back and forth. So basically, after you adjust & tighten it down, you can still grab the rocker and move it pretty easily from side to side, like if you were trying to twist it. My brother said he's never seen that before, but he doesn't have a ton of experience with full roller rockers.

When completed today, the car ran a little bit better but the noise was still present. It honestly doesn't sound like a typical lifter tick but more like a rattle. I have no idea if (1) the builder installed something incorrect as I've found multiple issues with other work he did, (2) there is something I did wrong, i.e. my 0 lash should be where the rocker doesn't move at all or (3) the heads and/or rockers aren't right for my application.

If anyone has any thoughts on any of this, please let me know. Thank you.

 

Most roller rockers are more noisy than factory rockers. I adjust mine one cylinder at a time rotating the engine on every valve ( I find it easier to get the correct adjustment that way). When the lifter is on the base circle of the cam I try to spin the push rod between my fingers, when it stops I give it another 1/2 turn and move to the next rocker and rotate the engine until that lifter is on the base circle. I use lock-tite on any rocker nuts that want to back off.

 

Did you check pushrod length when assembled?

 

The lazy Chilton's "put it in one place & adjust 8, then move it and adjust the other 8" method DOES NOT WORK for any kind of a performance cam. It barely works for weenie stock ones.

The first thing you have to GET RIGHT is to adjust each valve when it's on its "zero lift" point; i.e., when the cam as close as possible to 180° away from full lift ON THAT VALVE AND THAT ONE VALVE ONLY. This is quite easy, since once you find that spot for any given valve, you can turn the crank exactly 90° at a time and go through the firing order doing all 8 of that kind of valve (int or exh).

The second thing is to understand what you're "adjusting". What you're trying to accomplish is, take out ALL the VERTICAL play in the push rod, then tighten the rocker down some more so that when the lifter is at "zero", the push rod still depresses the center guts of the lifter partway through its travel within the lifter body. All of the "spin the PR with your fingers" kind of stuff you've heard, DOES NOT WORK; the best way is, once you get a lifter on its "zero lift" point, to jiggle the PR up and down as you tighten the rocker, until ALL the VERTICAL play is taken out; then tighten the rocker nut about ½ turn more. The last 1/16 turn or so, tighten the lock screw and the nut itself TOGETHER; be careful though, it's possible to put SO MUCH force on it this way SO EASILY, that you can break parts. Resist the temptation to gorilla it.

Best easiest way to locate "zero lift", although not absolutely accurate but plenty close enough for a hydraulic cam, is the "EOIC" method. That stands for "exhaust opening, intake closing".

As you turn the motor by hand, watch an exhaust valve. As that valve just barely begins to open ("exh opening"), that cyl's int valve is at zero. Adjust it. Whichever one it is, then turn the crank exactly 90° and adjust the next one in the firing order; repeat until all 8 are done. Then as you are doing the last one, watch the intakes and spot one that's fully open and beginning to close; continue turning the motor after you finish the last intake, then just as the one you identified reaches closing ("int closing"), adjust that cyl's exh. Go through all 8 of those 90° at a time.

The rockers being able to move side to side somewhat is normal. Don't worry about it.

 

Thank you very much for the detailed instructions. A couple of more questions...

1) I know this is common knowledge, but I want to make sure I'm thinking of it correctly: when you say the valve just begins to open, that means that the rocker for that particular valve will just begin to move down & compress the spring, correct? So when you "spot the one that's fully open", that would be the one where the rocker arm has fully compressed the spring?

2) In my (many) searches over the last couple of days, I've found another way that seems pretty popular - just wondering if this one has any advantages or disadvantages over the way you stated (i.e. is one easier to tell when the valves are open or more accurate):

Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Quick and Accurate Way:
First, view this simple chart below for Small and Big Block Chevy Engines and see if you can understand it. There is more of an explanation below the chart. For other engines you will use the firing order that matches your engine to create a similar chart. This chart is based upon "opposite" cylinders of your firing order. (see below)

Intake Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!
with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve

Exhaust Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!

You will notice that this is the same procedure and sequence as the intake valves listed above. Only now you are adjusting ONLY the exhaust valves the same way.
with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve
with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve
with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve
with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve
with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve
with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve
with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve
with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve

 

[IMG][/IMG]this is the way I do it and it works well. I always have the hardest time with finding 0 lash. So I adjust it as shown above just to be safe on start up. than i go through all of them again with the engine running to get out any clicking etc that may happen if i have it off a bit. If you do the "running" method. the best way is to get some old valve covers and cut the center out, flip up the piece you cut out and weld it to the exhaust side to deflect oil, very minimal mess

 

The way you posted is the way I usually give, and is the most accurate.

Either will work fine.

Discard the stupid Chilton's method and use one of the others.

Note that in either system, you do all the valves of one type going through the firing order, then all the valves of the other type. Doesn't matter which ones you do first, or where you start in the order, as long as you follow the order. Note that in either case, you'll be turning the engine in exactly 90° increments, which once you find your initial reference point (EO or IC in the one, or peak opening of a valve in the other) you no longer have to spot that occurrence on every other valve.

 

The lazy "Chilton" method is actually the recommended procedure in the factory service manual. With a longer duration replacement cam, I can see how it's possible that all lifters might not be exactly on the base of the cam while adjusting.

I really like the method where you adjust #6 intake at the point where #1 intake is fully open because it's foolproof. There's a 100% probability that the cam lobe will be way far out of your way so you can do your adjustment. I'm ultra lazy, so I would print out this chart in a 48 font so I wouldn't have to think at all while doing the job:


1 - 6
8 - 5
4 - 7
3 - 2

 

Stated better than I could:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...raulic_lifters

Got me wondering if your using a flat tapped cam and if you properly did the break-in with the correct oil.

 

No, it's a roller cam.

Thanks for all of the replies/good information. I'm going to try this again this weekend...hopefully for the last time (at least for awhile).

 

Well...either I am the worst valve adjuster of all time or something is amiss.

After adjusting the valves like three times, I finally decided to do it with the method(s) above. First, I did the "opposites" method (got the #1 cylinder intake valve at full lift, adjusted the #6 intake valve, etc.). When done, started the car...and noisy. At least one, maybe two on the passenger side were loud.

At that point, pulled the valve covers off again. Started doing the EOIC method. When I'd get the valve in proper position, I'd mark the nut at the 3 o'clock position, then loosen it. I then went strictly by feel, adjust the 0 lash and then do another half turn. I did this for all 16 valves and when done, all 16 were in exactly the same position - at least I was consistent. Started the car, still noisy.

Now, here are the issues - for a couple of the rockers, they "seem" to have more side to side play than other ones. For most valves, I could find the 0 lash point pretty easily (especially after having done it 6 times now), but a few others I was struggling with determine what was up and down play and what was the rocker moving side to side. For these valves (which, coincidentally or not) were on the passenger side, I'm not sure if (1) the 0 lash is incorrect because I couldn't tell up-down from the side-to-side or (2) the 0 lash is correct and the noise I hear is just the rocker rattling side to side. The noise seems more like a rattle than a tick, but I have no experience with this so I have no idea.

sofakingdom - you've been responding a lot to my other post about the fuel pressure, something you said struck a cord with me. I keep playing around with all these things but until I'm 100% the valves are adjusted properly, I might be doing all of this other work for nothing. I imagine a valve that is too tight or too loose could potentially be causing my hesitation, couldn't it?