A better option at this time would be to replace the CTS ;
probably $15 well spent.
You said you got readings off it when you tested it but you haven't said if you tested it to see if it has the same readings as the chart in TP's post above ????

It may well be working but it could be working wrong!

if the ECM doesn't have the correvt engine temp information ,then the amount of fuel supplied will be wrong.

 

So I move on to what?

 

Could you please explain why I should forget about the CS switch? If it's no good then what's the purpose of it being there?

 

Chevy86 IROC-ZOn Probation**Join Date: May 2009Location: Far WestPosts: 4,632Car: 1986 Camaro Z28 IROC-ZEngine: 350 Tuned Port Injection, for now.Transmission: 700R4Axle/Gears: Posi - 3.23Classifieds Rating: (17)Re: EGR temp sensor has been discontinuedQuote:Originally Posted by*joshwilson3*So, the only thing the switch does is throw a code?My EGR valve was bad, but I never got a code. I replaced the valve. But thought about taking the switch off to test it. But if it's only purpose is to send an SES light and doesn't affect the EGR valve operation. Then I won't bother trying to pull it as it was stuck last time I tried pulling it.I still get knock counts on acceleration under load. So, I'll just test the solenoid then.WRONG. The EGR Temp switch (known as sensor) grounds itself. THere is a small needle like piece of metal that bends with heat. So when the intake manifold reaches aprox. 132*, the EGR Temp Switch (sensor) grounds out which sends a signal to the ECM that the operating temperature has been reached. Then the ECM sends a current signal to the EGR Solenoid. With the current sent to the EGR Solenoid, it opens the little EGR Solenoid valve that allows vacuum to be applied to the EGR Valve via vac lines. Then the EGR Valve opens and allows exaust to enter the intake which helps with emissions as well as maintain lower temperatures inside the combustion chamber.

 

The EGR Temp switch (known as sensor) grounds itself. THere is a small needle like piece of metal that bends with heat. So when the intake manifold reaches aprox. 132*, the EGR Temp Switch (sensor) grounds out which sends a signal to the ECM that the operating temperature has been reached. Then the ECM sends a current signal to the EGR Solenoid. With the current sent to the EGR Solenoid, it opens the little EGR Solenoid valve that allows vacuum to be applied to the EGR Valve via vac lines. Then the EGR Valve opens and allows exaust to enter the intake which helps with emissions as well as maintain lower temperatures inside the combustion chamber.

 

So having a bad CS switch/ EGR time delay switch/EGR temp switch. Whatever they want to call it, wouldn't make my 88 iroc 5.7 liter tpi car run RICH????????

 

Last chance.
You will notice there are only two of us trying to help you and one is about to leave permanently!
You keep PM'ing me to help you but you won't listen to what is being said

As I have EXPLAINED several times before ,the cold start switch operates the cold start injector.
If the switch is not working the the injector is not working.
End of story

The CSI problem can be fixed later.

It had a purpose once when it was working ,
the fact it is not working now is NOT the cause of your rich running which is the problem I thought we were currently trying to solve ?

 

Why are you now talking about the EGR temp switch ; a completely different item to the COLD START SWITCH we have been talking about

This is what a EGR temp switch looks like.
Only 1 wire , not 2 wires that the CSI switch has.

 

I understand and I don't mean to make anyone of you upset, I'm just trying to fix my car, I can't afford to take it to a mechanic so I have to figure stuff out myself, my knowledge of this engine is not nowhere as good as both of you. I would like to continue trouble shooting my RICH running issue, I've been very appreciative towards both of your help. Maybe I'm hard headed or simply just dumb! My entire point of this thread is to figure out why my car is running rich and not staying on after it warms up. I'm willing to move forward, but have no clue where to restart. So I ask you guys please just bare with me and please try and help me figure out what to do next.

 

So I'll forget about this. What else could I test/do to figure out my car issue?