New 88' TA owner
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: '88 Trans Am GTA
New 88' TA owner
Just wanted to say howdy, this forum has already answered some questions and you're sure to see me ask some.
Just got myself an '88 TA. Story on how I got it is the motor on my daily driver (an '04 Jeep Wrangler, offroad modded) kicked the bucket (jumped timing chain which in turn did some really nasty damage). With no funds to get a new vehicle, no time to repair it myself and knowing that I couldn't keep using my motorcycle as a real daily driver, I was browsing CL one day and this guy had the TA up for sale and listed "or possible trades"...emails and calls ensued, and we traded even as he wanted a project.
The TA is in good condition. Fit and finish show it's age, no headliner, paint job is rough, no rust as far as I can see and I did look hard (even in the t-top channel). The engine is not original. It's a 350 TPI out of a 'vette but I don't know much about it other than the engine is in very good condition. The tranny was swapped or rebuilt and has a shift kit in it, the rear end was definitely re-geared but to what ratio I do not know.
I do have some stuff that needs to be done to it. When they did the engine swap, they either never hooked up the fan switch or it is broken so they wired a manual switch instead. I did this on my bike as well but eventually I want to hook it up so I don't have to remember to look at the temp gauge and turn it on while in traffic.
I get a little bit of detonation but before I start looking at the knock sensor systems, I am doing a full tune-up on it this weekend and running some seafoam through it (it definitely needs the tune-up).
Next order of business after that will be to take care of the leaks. I have a leak at the front drivers side pillar that drips on to my leg and I have a leak in the rear hatch that drips on to the rear seat.
I live in Long Island, NY by the way. I am no stranger to wrenching from bikes, to my offroaded Jeep to, dare I say it, Mustangs that I used to own...just new to the thirdgen world so I'm sure I will have plenty of questions.
Just got myself an '88 TA. Story on how I got it is the motor on my daily driver (an '04 Jeep Wrangler, offroad modded) kicked the bucket (jumped timing chain which in turn did some really nasty damage). With no funds to get a new vehicle, no time to repair it myself and knowing that I couldn't keep using my motorcycle as a real daily driver, I was browsing CL one day and this guy had the TA up for sale and listed "or possible trades"...emails and calls ensued, and we traded even as he wanted a project.
The TA is in good condition. Fit and finish show it's age, no headliner, paint job is rough, no rust as far as I can see and I did look hard (even in the t-top channel). The engine is not original. It's a 350 TPI out of a 'vette but I don't know much about it other than the engine is in very good condition. The tranny was swapped or rebuilt and has a shift kit in it, the rear end was definitely re-geared but to what ratio I do not know.
I do have some stuff that needs to be done to it. When they did the engine swap, they either never hooked up the fan switch or it is broken so they wired a manual switch instead. I did this on my bike as well but eventually I want to hook it up so I don't have to remember to look at the temp gauge and turn it on while in traffic.
I get a little bit of detonation but before I start looking at the knock sensor systems, I am doing a full tune-up on it this weekend and running some seafoam through it (it definitely needs the tune-up).
Next order of business after that will be to take care of the leaks. I have a leak at the front drivers side pillar that drips on to my leg and I have a leak in the rear hatch that drips on to the rear seat.
I live in Long Island, NY by the way. I am no stranger to wrenching from bikes, to my offroaded Jeep to, dare I say it, Mustangs that I used to own...just new to the thirdgen world so I'm sure I will have plenty of questions.
Re: New 88' TA owner
Welcome Aboard!
If the engine is running a factory TPI, there should still be an ECM installed in the right footwell. That will make it a lot easier to automate the cooling fans (back to original condition). Verify the fan relay is intact, and that battery power is available there (orange wire). With the ignition on, you should be able to ground the single black wire at a temperature switch on the right head and operate the fan(s). This switch is set at about 238° as a safety/backup for the ECM. The factory ECM programming operates the fan at about 221°F, so if you expected the fans to turn on at a lower temperature there may not actually be anything wrong.
You should also be able to jumper the yellow and black wires at the CTS and cause the fan to operate after an ECM delay.
Poke around the site (Search feature) to find threads on T-Top and door / garnish seal replacement and reconditioning. The headliner is not as easy to replace on a T-Top, but not impossible. The correct foam-backed material is usually available at fabric stores, and the procedure to properly remove and replace it are outlined here.
AS for the exterior, even if the paint is a bit rough, if the factory primer is intact and the car is rust free, try to keep it that way for now. Once corrosion starts, it's a downhill slide.
If the engine is running a factory TPI, there should still be an ECM installed in the right footwell. That will make it a lot easier to automate the cooling fans (back to original condition). Verify the fan relay is intact, and that battery power is available there (orange wire). With the ignition on, you should be able to ground the single black wire at a temperature switch on the right head and operate the fan(s). This switch is set at about 238° as a safety/backup for the ECM. The factory ECM programming operates the fan at about 221°F, so if you expected the fans to turn on at a lower temperature there may not actually be anything wrong.
You should also be able to jumper the yellow and black wires at the CTS and cause the fan to operate after an ECM delay.
Poke around the site (Search feature) to find threads on T-Top and door / garnish seal replacement and reconditioning. The headliner is not as easy to replace on a T-Top, but not impossible. The correct foam-backed material is usually available at fabric stores, and the procedure to properly remove and replace it are outlined here.
AS for the exterior, even if the paint is a bit rough, if the factory primer is intact and the car is rust free, try to keep it that way for now. Once corrosion starts, it's a downhill slide.
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