ok my 327 is still shaking at idle. but also smooths out during higher rpm's. i replaced all plugs. when i got to my number 8 plug it was wet like gas smell. so i restarted the motor after putting the new plugs in pulled the number 8 plug and its wet also. so i put it back in fired it back up for a few while running done a spit test on the headers. and every header pipe sizzled and are very hot even number 8 so im not sure if i have a dead cylinder or whats going on. i always thought if u had a dead cylinder the exhaust pipe for that cylinder wouldn't get hot enough to sizzle a liquid. i also took a good firing plug and put it in number 8 and number 8 plug in the other spark plug hole. and it still shakes waiting for the motor to cool down enough to pull the number 8 plug and number 2 plug. and see what the plugs look like the number 2 plug sparked good. i also took the number 8 plug out and put it in the wire itself and turned the motor over and it has spark. at any rate i ordered some power sealed premium moly rings cause i figure i got a dead cylinder. any help would be appreciated

 

Bet you may have a bad wire. Chased that for a bit finally found it arcing off the header. Wasnt til I was spinning it over I hear the clicking. couldnt see it while running. Hold off on rings its usually something real simple we overlook or overthink.

 

i put new wires on also. and all my wires are away from the headers. and it has a new hei dizzy cap and button.

 

before you go tearing down your engine, make sure you have good compression, do a leak down test, take valve covers off spin engine over, make sure you don't have a flat lobe on the cam, watch valve springs go up and down make sure they all move the same distance, you could have a burnt valve, if your number 8 has low compression put a little oil in number 8 and see if compression comes up, if it does it could then be rings if it don't then it could be a burnt valve.

 

yea i did stick my finger in the number 8 cylinder plug hole. and had my brother bump the motor over. all i could ever feel was some light suction but it never popped my finger out like the rest of them do. i also use mag1 10w30 oil it has high zinc in it. and the cam was ran in my 350 with no problems. all cylinders fired plus the heads came from the 350 also. when i tore the 327 down when i first got it. i put all new crank main bearings and rod bearings and cam bearings in. the piston rings on the pistons when i pulled it out a few were stuck so i soaked them over night and broke all the rings loose and cleaned them. they were really dirty. i also cleaned the cylinder bores out with the auto zone hone rental tool also.

 

ok pulled my valve covers off. and all my rocker arms are moving up and down like there suppose to. stuck my finger back in number 8. and i feel some suction but no air blowing passed my finger.

 

i also put some oil in the cylinder. and it might have changed a lil bit. i think i felt a lil more air pushing on my finger.

 

Just like said above….Doing an actual leak-down test will pin point things a lot better than sticking your finger in a plug hole.

Once you pass air into the cylinder, you'll be able to hear if it's leaking past the intake or exhaust valve….unless you already have plans to rebuild the whole thing anyway. This could be a classic example of a bent valve…but you won't know for sure unless you do a leak down test...

 

Yeah spit will sizzle. But you need a spray bottle and spray it good. Won't be wet if it's firing. Give it a cap. rotor and wires. Should do the trick. Even the best wires don't last long around headers.

 

Sorry the rest of the post didn.t pop up till after I posted.Unless the valve guides are so wore out the valves are hanging open, or bent/burnt valve. I broke two valve spring on my 327. It's got flattop(4 valve reliefs) TRW pistons with a 327/350hp cam(.447 lift). And I didn't bend a valve. Just to give you a ballpark.