I found my mostly stock L98 has a crack in the block, and obviously needs a replacement. Although I have built engine(s) before, my time is at more of a premium than money, so I am leaning toward a crate. However, the more judicious I am with the crate leaves more money to other upgrades (anyone got a spare 12 bolt?).

Intended use: nice weather, semi-daily, cruising car, with occasional 1320's with a friend in the club clash bracket racing.
Intake: I plan to stick with TPI, due to emissions as well as maintain "the stock look" of the car. I already have a Vortec base, SLP runners and a spare plenum. This is an area I can take future free time and follow the path the SoCal guys have blazed with porting.
Others: Currently have an auto, but have all the parts for a T56 swap. Rear is a stock 3.23:1 10 bolt, 180k-ish miles, posi still has some bias, but makes noise under load.

I've read horror stories about Blueprint brand crates here on TGO, so will exclude them.
GM - the only gripe is the price. No posts about problems. The only 350 is the ZZ5 that comes in a "turn key" package and blows the price. Which leaves 383s. The short block is identical between choices...

1) HT383 #12499101 is $4600. Iron Vortec heads, 9.1:1, similar to stock TPI cam specs. 340 HP @ 4500 RPM, 435 ft lbs @ 4000 RPM

2) Upgrade #1, total cost ~ $5050. Add LT4 hot cam ($200), beehive springs (on the shelf), .025 headgaskets ($120) replace the .051 and raise compression to 9.6:1, as the head come off to get the valve guides machined for extra lift ($100?). 390 HP? 435-449 ft lbs?

3) ZZ383 deluxe #19301295 is $6500. Updates to the aluminum Fast Burn heads with beehive springs. 9.7:1, LT4 hot cam (or close enough). 450 HP @ 5400 RPM, 449 ft lbs @ 4500 RPM

Piecemeal upgrades end up costing more than buy once and be done, so if/when I pull the trigger, I will be "stuck" with it for a long time. Is $1900 worth the 110hp increase? Will the higher hp engine be any more temperamental that a "mild factory replacement"? #3 is right at the limit the SoCal guys talk about still being able to pass emissions, so it can't be TOO lumpy...

Which to do you recommend, and why?

 

I went with the most expensive setup cause , well why not , ain't MY money we're talkin here , right ?

But seriously , as soon as you mention any kind of racing , it becomes a matter of buy the best you can afford if your going to be any kinds of competitive on the track .

Remember the old saying ;

Speed = Cubic inches X cubic dollars , squared

 

I haven't heard anything recently,but,there have been alotta GM 383's with oil consumption problems.They may have it straightened out now.They are on,IIRC,the 3rd piston/ring design.I would do some research tho befor sinking that kinda money into 1.

 

I just bought a l31r for $1970 shipped from jegs. Bought a lunati roller cam with ls6 springs and comp retainers.
I have under $2200 in the engine with a voided warranty. All new not rebuilt.

Great bang for the buck.

Edit: Sorry didn't see the "383"

 

Build a 383 yourself (read books and watch videos), buy $600 aluminum heads, and get a cam better than the hotcam (small for a 383) for under $3500. I built a 400+ horsepower 355 with a hotcam for under $2,000.

 

If youre sticking with TPI, don't waste your money on anything that peaks above 4500 rpm. No, you won't get that 110 hp increase with a TPI strangling it.
So, given your 3 options I'd pick the first.
But for cost effectiveness, the L31 crate motor recommended by RamIt is hard to beat.

 

You can make the same power if not substantially more by making your own build then going with a crate engine!!

By the way......

Better get to stepping to be able to hang with the Fr8Train!!!! That would be pretty cool dude you better get in a video

 

@init4fun - bracket racing is a small part of my intended use. And bracket racing is more about consistency than max power.

@jokerZ71 - Hopefully you are right about being over oil consumption.

@RamIt - ZZ4 short block is just $2400. AFR heads, cam/valvetrain, sheet metal, and various parts will drive the price up. I am not categorically opposite to a 350. I am looking for good bang for the buck that is mostly drop it in and forget it.

@IrocRoadRacer - Been there, done that. I have built and rebuilt engines. I don't do it professionally, so I would have to find/rent/buy tools, spend twice as long as a pro. I get paid well to do my job well, and I am not opposed to pay an engine builder to build it better and faster than I can.
Also, I am not good at sniffing/finding/haggling a killer price for good parts. $600 for a pair of AL heads are, in Sofa's words, cheeeaaaappp junk and not something that would last 10 years and 100k miles without needing to be rebuilt.

@86LG4Bird (& RamIt) - You're right about the TPI vs RPM/HP. Any of the 383 options will be in the same torque ballpark - only 15 ftlbs difference.
- OK, I found the L31 #12530283 for $2100-$2200 from Jegs, Summit, and Pace. It doesn't mention, so I assume a cast crank, which is still sufficient for my power/rpm levels. For going through the effort of changing engines, I think I'd still apply the #2 cam/valveguide $500 upgrades to this crate, which brings the total up to only $2700. Most of the benefit at 1/2 price! I will definitely add this to my options mix.

@GhettoBird52 - "more power from build your own" - Probably true, but I am not after absolute max HP, otherwise we'd be talking LS, turbo, SC, etc. Same point as above, for going through all the cost and effort of a replacement engine, I do want more power than stock. And that has to balance against me not wanting to have to mess with a temperamental engine, such as adjusting mechanical lifters.
Better get to stepping to be able to hang with the Fr8Train!!!! - You lost me on this. Please elaborate.

 

The L31 does have a nodular iron cast crank.It's a hard deal to beat.The L31/Hot Cam combo,when using the rite supporting parts is an almost guaranteed 400 HP @ a good price.