SparksAj

My car started squealing earlier today under the hood (which is freshly painted. whooo).
It appears to be coming from the alternator's general vicinity. It squeals while the a/c on, but really gets crazy when the A/c is turned off. Can i drive the car like this? Will it cause more problems?

Also, like i said, the hood is freshly painted. I went a day without a hood in orlando in the middle of a downpour, i've read water can damage the alternator, but i've also read a lot that the water won't hurt it any, should i have played it safe?

willexoIX

How old is your belt?

SparksAj

Belt is maybe 2 years old? Maybe less? I bought the car 14 months ago, the belt looked brand spankin new, and still does. I dont believe it's the belt, could the rain have affected it any?

willexoIX

Sounds like moisture. Our honda squeals like a banshee when its wet out, and I know what you mean about the rain, its getting old already and its just the start of the rainy season.

If the belt looks rather new, how about your tensioner? I had a loose belt before and it always squealed on startup, I thought it might be the alternator but it wasnt. I made a custom bracket for mine so I could reuse the old belt without the idler pulley.

SparksAj

Idk what the tensioner is unfortunately. I do plan on driving it tonight though. If I get where I'm going and can't start, will a jump get me going if it IS my alternator?

willexoIX

Im on mobile so not really sure what motor/year you have. My 89 v6 has a spring loaded belt tensioner next to the alternator. Im sure v8s vary by motor/year but I think some would use the alternator mount for belt tension.

If its a bad alternator you may be able to get jumped, but it wouldnt last very long at all cause the battery isnt being charged. Way less if your using accessories ( lights, electronics, etc). You notice any dimming lights when you hit the brakes or use the headlights or anything?

Only time I ever had an alternator causing my belt to squeal was when the pulley siezed.

SparksAj

So i drove it thursday night for about an hour, and yesterday for atleast a total of 23 hours roadtime. Didn't die, no electrical problems that are apparent to me. The squealing is there for about 5-10minutes after startup then goes away for the most part, it sometimes comes back while hitting the brakes(but only for about a minute)

So this tensioner is just where the loop the belt touches the alternator? Would it need adjusting or just be replaced?

willexoIX

Anyway you can take pics of all your accessories on the belt system? That way we can determine which tensioner you have.

If its tensioned by the alternator, you might be able to get more miles out of the belt by tightening it up some. If you have a spring tensioner, youll need a new belt, as the spring tensioner cant be adjusted, well the one on my car anyway.

SparksAj

Happen to have one handy actually.

willexoIX

You have the spring tensioner same as me. Id grab a new belt. The tensioner is the pulley right next to the alternator. Its a 15mm wrench or socket and you act like you are loosening the center bolt to remove the tension on the belt to change it.

SparksAj

Ok. So then I'm looking for a new serpentine belt? Is there danger in driving it for another day, maybe 2, like this?

willexoIX

Yea, new serpentine belt. More annoying than dangerous, though there really isnt any danger at all, im pretty sure its either moisture, or it could be the tesioner itself. Youll know when you change the belt. Hold on to the old one as a spare and keep it in the car. Youll never know when youll need it.

SparksAj

If it is the tensioner, how is that fixed? By tightening? Do I buy a new tensioner?

willexoIX

Yea you would buy a new one, less than 30 bucks IIRC. Its as easy as taking the belt off and removing two 10mm bolts. Unfortunately there is no way to fix our tensioner besides buying a new one.

I dont quite remember if it comes with the pulley, if not you would reuse the pulley off the old one. Over time the spring inside loses its tension, which cant keep the belt as tight as it needs to be. If its original, then its about that time to replace it. Its a super easy fix as well.

SouthSide2

Looks like you have great advice here.

I'd like to share a story, it goes like this.

Ten years ago my 90 RS died at a stop light. Could not restart it. So I pushed it into a parking spot put a quarter in the meter and walked to work. After work I called for a toe. When I got the car in my garage (with the parking ticket) I put a 5/8

Lurbie

iTrader: (3)

An old trick I used to do in the dealership was to take a dry bar of Lava soap, and with the engine running, press the bar into the serp side of the belt, just enough to wear some grooves into the bar of soap. If the noise stops it is coming from your belt. This could be due to lack of tension or a belt that's worn out. If the noise is still there after soaping the belt then it could be a bearing or brush noise from the alternator. You could try some electric motor spray lube on the bearings or brushes at that point and see how it fairs.

Great story, but a little short

SouthSide2

And now the rest of the story.

I put a 5/8" socket on the crankshaft balancer bolt and it would not turn. The engine was locked up. WTH? Bad thoughts were going threw my head. It must be something simple. It just locked up at a idle. Well maybe it's not the engine. Could it be the AC compressor? Water pump? Air pump? Power steering pump? Or maybe it's the alternator? I removed the belt to find the alternator locked up really good. Relieved... it's a simple fix. Amazed that the belt had such a grip that the starter could not turn it over.

I'm not saying to replace your alternator. Mine was original with 110,000+ miles. I never heard a clue it was going to fail. Never see one just lock up. I have replaced them because they stopped charging. On cars this old I would imagine it's been replaced once.

Something to think about.

willexoIX

Good story, though mine was more a nonstop squeak than a squeal when it seized. His only does it on startup but I agree it would be a good idea to check the bearings in the alternator.

I just recently regreased the bearings in mine and got rid of a barely audible squeaking. If only I knew then what I know now...

SouthSide2

So, are you happy ? Like... have you got it fixed ? I'm not the only one that reads this.

SparksAj

Sorry the day of my last post I lost my phone and just got a new one a few days ago. My belt actually just broke on an hour ago while on the highway. I'm on the side of the road waiting for a friend to take me to advance auto to buy a new belt. What tools are required?

willexoIX

If im not mistaken just a 15mm wrench or socket to loosen the tensioner to put the belt on should be all you need. The sticker on your rad support should tell you belt routing as well.

SparksAj

Air pump is seized up. What can I do to fix it today? Buy a new one?

SouthSide2

Most tentioners have a square hole for a 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. Use this to over ride the spring tension. Lever action.

A tire iron may be used if your find the right spot. This is a advanced ******* technique, so be careful, as most ******* techniques end in injury.

Good luck,

SouthSide2

I see I'm late on that response.

willexoIX

Depending on emissions in your area, temporarily you may be able to buy a non air pump belt, but im unsure whether or not the pulley will interfere with belt routing.

SouthSide2

The vains or wipers or the guts of your air pump may be the cause of the lock up. It is possible to remover them. This is a ******* job or a clever way to remover drag of the pump. This can be done with a screw driver or chisel and a hammer. You brake the guts in to little pieces. One must remove all fragments and leaf springs. There are lot of part in this pump. The only parts one needs to get it rolling again is the bearings. If ones bearing are worn real badly, burn up, missing... Stop and get a used pump. If bearings look good. Wash the gutted pump with a solvent, dry and oil with gear lube or wheel bearing grease. Motor oil is OK to just does not last as long. Motor oil also being lighter has less drag. This method will of course make the air pump no longer pump air and will effect emissions. One could do this as a quick fix, (not really quick removing all the bits) till a good pump was obtained.

With out the air pump you can and will smell a richer mix or raw gas. As the pump helps burn unburnt fuel left over from the cylinders. That why its pumping air into the exhaust.

SparksAj

New pump is on. Car is drivable. Stalls out after being at a light for more than 10 seconds though. I'll look into it in the morning. It's done this before, just never. to the extreme extent it is now, it's extremely jerky and wants to surge forward. I have an Ses code, though it only pops up while I'm at idle. Goes away once I'm in motion. I'm aware of the paperclip trick, I was just too exhausted to do it tonight