Just got a 84 z28 5.0, said to be original motor and trans. It runs and drives but needs work I was told it had been sitting for 3 years bought by this guy then given a tune up and sat for another 2 1/2 yrs lol , I'm gonna start with all new brakes and tires . Change all the fluids , plugs , wires , it has a new battery. Few things missing I've noticed already . so there's a few lines that aren't connected that look like they could go to the charc canister then some that don't or maybe for AIR pump, I know I got to get pics to show what I'm looking at just waiting for this rain to stop but I can't find any good pics or diagrams of where all my hoses and lines should be as far as the vac lines and the evap system and AIR system just need help figuring out what's what I'll have better pics in a day or 2 . It needs some body work in door jams and hinge pillars not too bad I'm gonna worry about the body work when it's running good on the road. Odo reads 46k the guy says its 146 as in its rolled over once . Any truth to that ? Anything that I'm missing ?? I'm also replacing the carb , what's the difference from the comp controlled carb to a non cc ?? Are most replacement carbs non cc? I was thinking about a Rochester 4 barrel

 

Welcome to TGO!

If you do a search for "Vacuum diagram" it should pull up the diagrams of where all the vacuum lines go. However, before you go running off and doing that, do you require emissions where you are?

I would personally keep the CC Rochester Qjet that's on it, it's fantastic 750 CFM 4 barrel carb and will get the same power and better MPG's as any Holley or Edelbrock you throw at it. I run one on my car and I have a 355.

Also, if you get rid of it you'll need to buy a new vacuum advance distributor which, if you need emissions where you are, you can't get. Also, you would need to get an adapter harness to control your transmission unless you have a manual.

As for 46 being 146? Yes, mine reads 52XXX but is actually 152XXX. The old odometers only went to 99999 before going back to 00000.

You've already started in the right direction by doing a full tune up. Cap, Rotor, Coil, Plugs and plug wires. With that done you'll at least have a good foundation to build on.

Hope this helps!

 

Don't forget to drop the tank and make sure it's clean as well. Old/bad fuel can make a mess of things, and if the fuel strainer is original it's probably about ready to disintegrate as well.

I agree on the emissions, if you aren't required to have them in your area ditch all that nonsense, give it a thorough tune up and keep it maintained. That will do wonders and keep it running cleaner than any of that archaic junk ever could, plus clean up and simplify your engine bay quite a bit.

The Rochesters have a bad reputation, but actually allow quite a bit of power and tuneability once you know what you're doing. Fully agree on studying up on them, this guy has excellent books; http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/how-...=9781932494181

 

Yeah keep the CC Qjet, unless it's worn out or warped. They're not much more complicated than a normal QJet. They're harder to tune for a high performance engine as they depend partially on the ECM, but they're perfect for a stock engine.
I rebuilt mine and had never worked on a carb before, now my car runs great.