wont start
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Hagatna, Guam
wont start
Can somebody please help me. I have a stock 91 RS and it ran pretty good until about a week ago. then one day it starting sputtering and dying, I managed to derive it home and it died. I can crank it over and do see fuel being sprayed by both injectors. heres the problem it seems to crank forever then suddenly it will fire, run for all of 2-3 seconds and then die again, and wont start. I can smell fuel like it is flooded. the spark plugs are delcos, new cap and rotor. I checked for spark and it appears to be getting some spark. I have replaced the fuel filter, and ignition coil. mods that I have done are, removing the air, from the exhaust and capping them off, hollowed cat, disconnected the a/c (bad compressor) and disconnected the smog pump. a check did not show any trouble codes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've read articles here and think that you guys are the bomb, and have saved alot of people money. Hope you can do the same for me. Just for sh#ts and giggles my license plate reads SHTHPNS
(sh*t Happens) lol
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Joined: Jan 2000
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RS,
There is no doubt you have fuel. There are only a few other things you really need to run an engine: Air, compression, and ignition. The air should be admitted easily since you've remove the cleaner. Compression can be presumed if there have been no catastrophic engine failires or you don't have excessive mileage or oil consumption. The last thing is ignition at the correct time, and this can be elusive.
Check the spark for intensity. It should be able to arc across a ¼" gap easily while cranking. The key will be the timing. Check the static timing of the engine to make sure the timing chain has not slipped. Disconnect or bypass the EST control to eliminate the possibility of a failed ESC unit. Inspect the distributor cap and rotor for signs of carbon streaks, worn contacts, or moisture. Test the ignition coil resistance - primary windings should measure at about 0.5-1.5 ohms, while secondary windings should be between 5,000-15,000 ohms. Inspect the spark plugs for fuel fouling. Excessive liquid fuel on the plugs can ground the spark rather than allowing it to arc across the gap.
Waiting for results...
There is no doubt you have fuel. There are only a few other things you really need to run an engine: Air, compression, and ignition. The air should be admitted easily since you've remove the cleaner. Compression can be presumed if there have been no catastrophic engine failires or you don't have excessive mileage or oil consumption. The last thing is ignition at the correct time, and this can be elusive.
Check the spark for intensity. It should be able to arc across a ¼" gap easily while cranking. The key will be the timing. Check the static timing of the engine to make sure the timing chain has not slipped. Disconnect or bypass the EST control to eliminate the possibility of a failed ESC unit. Inspect the distributor cap and rotor for signs of carbon streaks, worn contacts, or moisture. Test the ignition coil resistance - primary windings should measure at about 0.5-1.5 ohms, while secondary windings should be between 5,000-15,000 ohms. Inspect the spark plugs for fuel fouling. Excessive liquid fuel on the plugs can ground the spark rather than allowing it to arc across the gap.
Waiting for results...
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92camaroJoe
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