If I stay fuel injected and I swap my manifolds out with headers do I have to have a heated o2 sensor or can I get by with original o2 sensor. Ive heard the heated o2 sensor is the way to go but what is the difference?

 

The O2 has to be hot to work. If it gets too cold, it sends inaccurate information. That's why cars with feedback carbs used to idle in open loop...the data from the unheated O2 at idle was not reliable.

I don't think you "have to" switch to a heated O2 with headers, but it's a great time to do it.

Something like this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231672384675?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I kept my stock O2 sensor with hooker 2055 shorties and it was fine. Still went into closed loop. With long tubes, not so much. I had to switch to a heated O2.

 

I switched to a heated O2 because my headers relocated the sensor all the way back to the collector and it was taking a long time to heat up and stay there. Once I switched I had a lot less drivability issues.

 

Right every one of them: as all these guys said, the deal is not so much whether it "works", but rather, how long it takes before it starts to.

Best power source for a heated one is the fuel pump power feed. Comes on at the right time.

 

Its actually an extremely easy modification to switch from a single wire to a 3-wire.

 

Thanks for the replies. When I go that route I will look into putting a 3-wire heated o2 sensor in then. Im sure somewhere on here I can find the best way to wire it. Thanks guys.