tcrisp

I am trying prime my oil pump and I don't see oil coming out of the push rods . Does any body had this problem with a new rebuild motor . The motor is a 350 tpi. What could be the problem?

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

First , make sure your turning the pump the correct direction , which will be the same direction the distributor turns . Next , make sure your turning it fast enough , what are you using to turn it with ? Last , it can take a full minute or minute and a half for oil to appear if your turning it much less than a couple hundred RPM (at a 600 RPM idle the pump is turning 300 RPM)

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

First, you're wasting your time doing all that. THE ENGINE will do it all by itself, FAR better than you possibly can with your drill, within acoupla seconds of running.

Second, if you're not using a tool that includes a distributor body, then you have a MASSIVE internal oil leak; the passage that should be feeding oil to the right lifters, instead is just dumping all the oil the pump moves, into the lifter gallery.

Third, you're wasting your time. If you built the engine right, it has all the lube it needs in all the right places, to survive several minutes of running; all you are accomplishing by messing with it that way, is washing all that great stuff you smeared everywhere, off of the parts it belongs on and into the bottom of the pan.

Stop that uselessness and finish assembling the motor, and DON'T try to start it until it is COMPLETELY READY. Develop the discipline of COMPLETELY FINISHING before the first time you hit the key: and by COMLETELY FINISHING, I mean, all wires, all vacuum lines, all fluids, the rad cap, the air filter, the hood, EVERYTHING, ready to DRIVE OFF before you hit the key the first time. Grow some self-confidence.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

What Sofa says , when discussing a brand new build , is 100% correct , the proper use of assembly lube should protect the engine just fine till the oil pressure comes up . The one time I went to the bother of making an actual pre oiler was on an engine that sat a bunch of years , was only disassembled down to a short block (crank & pistons left in place and untouched) and heads done and reinstalled with all new gaskets . That engine was totally bone dry , didn't have any assembly lube cause it hadn't been further apart than a shortblock (Cam , lifters , and oil pump were replaced and they did have assembly lube) and the pre oiling made sense to me in that one instance . I will include a shot of a pre oiler made out of an old distributor .

Something else to consider here as a side point is that on any piston engine aircraft larger than a Cessna , there is an electric oil pump that builds up the oil pressure before the crankshaft is rotated each time it starts up . Never is the crank to be moved without a pressurized lubricating system for the specific reason of having the least wear possible during the start . A tenth of a second without oil pressure on each start up may be acceptable in the automotive world , but in an application where lives actually depend on the reliability of an engine , even that tenth of a second without oil is considered too much ....

I didn't go into all that with the OP cause that's not what he was asking , a question of the benefits/detriments of pre oiling , he was asking why his pre oiling wasn't giving the expected results .....

Ron U.S.M.C.

I always fill the oil filter with oil when I do a oil change.
I use the taller filter and am surprised at how much oil it actually holds.


I don't know if that makes any difference in your application.


It seems as though it would.

cardo0

Yea, if u understand the oil flow path u will see to get oil out the p-rods is has to go though all the tight clearances in each lifter first and through the oil galley before that. Like has been said w/o a dist the oil galley just dumps oil down back to the pan. Ive heard some say the oil will come out the p-rods after a long time of priming - but im not believing it.

Yes, if the engine was assembled correctly the only lube it might need is a to coat the rocker arms/vlv train with your normal use oil - use a good ol' squirt oil can.
In fact i would expect to much of that pre-lubing will wash out some good assembly lube on the brgs - u better start it right away then.