Hi Everyone,

The a/c recently stopped working in my 1989 Camaro RS (L03 V8/305 5L “E” engine). I know little to nothing about a/c systems other than the research I’ve done on the forums and Google, so I wanted to get your opinion(s) on the best approach to handle the situation. I’m not a complete novice when it comes to technical things (I recently replaced the alternator with advice from the board here - thanks!), but I am definitely not a pro and basically learn through doing/asking.

I bought the car a little over a month ago and it has 108k miles on it. I believe the a/c was working fine when I bought it, however it was still pretty cool out so I didn’t use it for several weeks - and I was also not driving it while waiting on the alternator replacement. Anyway, now the a/c seems to have stopped working (and by working I mean it still blows air just fine, but it is just hot air).

I did as much research on the boards and troubleshooting as I could, but I think I’ve reached the limits of my technical knowledge.

Here are some notes on what I’ve tried/things I’ve noticed:

- It doesn’t seem to be related to the alternator replacement. The belt is just as tight and the engine runs just fine.
- The compressor clutch does not spin when I turn on A/C and I cannot turn it manually. It feels stuck.
- I tested for voltage at both the small connector on the back of the accumulator/receiver/dryer? (round and snaps on) and tried testing on the connector on the front near the belt (the resistor connector). I didn’t see any (or very, very little - .03v?) voltage on either connector. The resistor connector was pretty funky - melted plastic or goo? Sorry, I'm terrible with terminology.
- With no voltage there, I tested the voltage at the “pressure switch” that connects to the accumulator. The connector itself (that plugs on) had good voltage - I believe it was 12v strong.
- From searching around, I saw where people tried to “jump” the pressure switch by using a paperclip. I tried this by taking the connection off of the pressure switch prongs, inserting a paperclip into the connector, and then tried starting the car with the a/c turned on… The car tried to start but then died, so I tried again with the same result. I started to smell something, so I decided it was a good idea to stop trying.
- I believe this is still the original system - it is R12. The screw on caps are missing so I am unsure of which port is for what function.
- I do not have any testing gauges etc. currently for testing pressure.

I’m not very confident in trying to directly “jump” the compressor from the battery as I have read differing opinions on doing that … and I also do not understand how to do it. I’m trying to save the R12 system if possible and spend as little as possible as cash is a bit tight right now. But Summer is coming up quick!

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!

 

Usual reason for your situation, is the refrigerant has all leaked out.

Usual reason for that is, the system has leaks. Putting refrigerant back in isn't the answer because it'll all just leak out again.

You can unplug the plug from the switch on the accumulator, and with the engine running and A/C turned on, stick your paper clip in the pins. The comp should run. Don't leave it running for more than a few seconds; it's not going to get cold so don't bother.

First thing you'll need to do is find the leak(s). Then you'll need to fix it(them). Then you'll need to recharge the system.

Don't worry about the cost. Don't beat us around here over the head with it, especially. It'll cost what it costs, no matter how much you hammer us on here about it. Parts stores don't solicit sob stories and judge them by their entertainment value and price their parts accordingly.

Since you have to have a license to buy R12 these days, retaining that isn't a good choice. Rather, convert it to R134A. Buy a new compressor, the right oil (you'll need some kind of "medium" viscosity, the 75 grade is about right), new lines (or at least the rubber sections: you can cut off the crimp ferrules and use REAL A/C hose clamps instead, NOT the heater hose ones hanging on a card at AZ), all new O-rings, the "adapter" port valves, a new accumulator, and a new orifice tube (get the red/orange Frod one, for about a 96 Crown Vic, it's a better match to a GM R12 system with R134A in it than the GM R12 one). Before you start, make sure your cooling system is working right, especially the rad fan. Once you get all the parts come back and we'll walk you through changing all that out and making it work and STAY working.

 

Hey Sofa,

I see - I tried paper clipping the pins with the engine running and a/c on and the compressor ran fine so I removed the paper clip quickly.

I didn't mean to place a big emphasis on the cost and I understand it will cost what it costs. I just wanted to get advice on the most cost efficient means of getting it worked out I guess.

I will check out everything you mentioned and look into the conversion too. I appreciate the help!