Hi everyone,

I have a 1989 Camaro RS (5.0L V8) with just over 108,000 miles that I recently purchased and it is having a rather strange electrical/voltage problem - if you can call it a problem.

I've done a lot of searching and reading on the forums here, and while I can find a lot of information regarding similar issues, I can't find anything that occurs like this issue.

I should note too that I am by no means a mechanic or electrician - I am a complete beginner in auto mechanics. I have wired up stereo and video systems within a car before, but not worked with mechanics much.

With that, what's happening is that sometimes, the voltage gauge within the car goes up to the red line and hovers there for a while, then it will settle back down to around 12-14 volts steady. Then it will go back, hover there all the way up almost, and then back down. I would say that it stays toward 12-14 most of the time, but it does go up quite a bit...

It seems like the turn signal also affects it to some degree when it goes up... They will flash faster or slower depending on where the voltage is reading. Also, at night the head lights will fluctuate when it happens, causing the lights to almost flash or flicker, which could be bad I'm sure for other drivers etc.

From my understanding, this could be an issue with the battery; alternator; or some of many ground wires. I tested the battery using a volt meter with the car off, and it read between 12-14 volts. I then tested the alternator with the car running, and it also tested in that range consistently. It was a short test, but correct during that time.

I don't really know how to check the ground wires or what to look for; I do see the ground going from negative battery terminal to body - it looks fine I think. Not sure about the others.

I did notice the car idle a bit slower too when I turn on the AC/Heat - not sure if that is related. Everything seems to work fine, except for the radio unit ... it doesn't come on (it is original) but makes a "pop" sound when you turn power on/off... Not sure if that affects anything but doubt it.

Anyway, any help or guidance you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated! I want to learn about this stuff and save as much money as possible. I love this car (owned one in the 90's) and just want everything to be perfect!

Thanks again!

 

This may, or may not relate to your specific issues. I'm sure others with more 3rd gen. specific advice will chime in.

With your signals changing speeds with the voltage change seen on the gauge, I'd say the voltage change is real (not a bad gauge).

And I'd say you are looking in the right places. I just went through the issue you describe above (headlights) with my '98 Olds Cutlass (P90). It had some severely corroded side-terminal connections, which I disassembled and cleaned. But that was no help, at least for the lighting condition described.

In this case, the local auto parts store was my / is your best friend. I removed the alternator for testing, and it failed. I also had them load test the battery (while it was still starting the car, it was 8 years old, and in my mind, highly suspect). It also failed a load test. With both components replaced, the charging system is nice and strong, and no more flickering lights at night.

I guess my point is, it could be either, or both. Both are easy to remove, and free to have tested. Not much to lose.

 

Thank you DynoDave! I know that I could easily remove the battery, I think it was installed in 2014 (seems to be on top of the battery)... I'm not too sure about the alternator.

It is odd to me that it will stay steady for a while sometimes... it almost seems completely random when it acts up, however it seems to do it quite a bit.

If anyone else has any ideas please let me know too.

Thanks!

 

The alternator isn't too hard to remove if you have a basic set of hand tools and a set of Torx bits, iirc. The serpentine belt needs to comes off the pulley on the alternator, but you can leave it mostly in place. Once that is off there are 2 bolts on the front of the alternator that you'll need to take off, one of which I believe is a torx bit. Then on the back there is a brace, plus the main charging wire (10mm nut), and a plug (be gentle with it as to not break off the retaining tab). Of course, you want to remove the battery first since there is a direct connection between the battery and the alternator and you can easily short out your wrench on the engine causing sparks and possibly melting things you need later.

I would start with what DynoDave suggested as far as getting the battery and the alternator tested. While you are at it you'll be able to check for corrosion on the battery terminals and the alternator.

 

Awesome, thanks for the advice Amorget!

I'll see what I can do - hopefully this weekend!

 

Take a look at the alternator and if you aren't comfortable with removing it from my written instructions I'll go take some pictures of my 92 TBI car and give you a visual guide to assist. I tried to find a video for you, but the only one I found was for an 86, which really isn't that helpful for 88-92 Serpentine setups.

 

I'll give it a look - I think I'm a bit scared of the belt if anything - hah... Do you just slide the belt over the pulley or do you have to loosen it in some way first?

Also, the local auto store will test them for free out of the car? (Any recommendations on where to go - avoid?

Thanks again!

 

There is a tensioner that keeps the belt tight. You put a wrench on the tensioner and relieve the tension and then slide the belt off. To put it back on your basically do the same thing. Here is a video on replacing a serpentine belt:


Don't let the video scare you, it is a whole lot easier on a Thirdgen.

I personally use my local O'Reilly Auto Parts for testing. At least my local one has fancy machines that do it and give you a print out of the results from the test. I wasn't impressed with the local NAPAs testing abilities. Every parts store I know of will test them for free because they want your business if the part is bad.

 

Awesome! That doesn't look too bad. It could probably use a new belt too anyway.

Any suggestions on battery/alternator/belts for good deals in case I need to replace?

I really appreciate the help!

 

I assume you don't need the Camaro to get to work on Monday?

If you want to save a few bucks: http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-7151-a...9-caprice.aspx

I have purchased several alternators and starters from them with no issues at all, along with others on this forum (you can search the aftermarket vendor review forum on them).

Other than that, imho, whatever parts store is close buy from them, assuming you like the people working there.

If you decide the replace the belt, I personally prefer the better brands, like Gates or Goodyear, compared to the cheap options. Not that I haven't used the cheap options, but the price difference is normally rather minimal. Also, if you do replace the belt take the old one and stick it back in the packaging that came with the new belt and throw it under the passenger seat or in the rear glove box. If something goes terribly wrong having a spare belt could save you a bunch of headache or a tow truck bill.

 

Hah - well, I don't *have* to drive it to work Monday, but I want to drive it to work! :P

Oh yeah, and should I just get a range of sizes for Torx? They seem pretty reasonable.

Thanks for the suggestions; I will definitely check out that alternator and look into everything else too. I really appreciate the help!

 

Ha, I know that feeling!

For the torx, buy a set that include a T45 and T50, then buy a stand alone T47 since most kits don't have that. Buy a good quality set because it really sucks to have a low quality torx bit cause the bolt to strip. Also, I find that with enough use they start to twist, so an easy Lifetime Warranty (such as Husky from Home Depot, Kobalt from Lowes, or Craftman from Sears) is really nice to have.

 

Awesome - thanks so much for all of the information!

 

Don't forget to check back and let everyone know your fix. It might help someone else in the future

 

Hey Rockguy,

Will do - I didn't get a chance this weekend to pull the alternator and battery to have them tested but I definitely will by the end of next weekend. I ended up doing some painting on the car today and trying to get the factory stereo to work (going to end up doing a replacement I think).

But I will be sure to post the fix once I know what it is!

Thanks!

 

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to update you in case you wanted to know the cause (or at least suspected cause right now).

I took it and had it tested and it seems that the voltage regulator is bad. I went ahead and ordered the alternator that Am suggested above and it should be here within a week or two, so I'll see if that fixes my issue and update the thread if so - hopefully that's all it is!

Thanks again for the help!

 

Just to follow-up; it appears that it was indeed the alternator that was causing the problem. At least so far - I just got it put in today.

Also, just to note for anyone that may run into the same issue, the bottom bolt on the alternator was a T50 Torx bolt instead of what you may see if you find videos etc. I tried to get this thing out before going to get the T50 Torx and it just wasn't happening... I actually broke the metal on the old alternator trying to move it back and forth just to loosen the bolt hah. (I should have listened to Am and made sure I had the T50!).

Anyway, so far so good - everything seems pretty steady now.

 

Sorry for multiple posts, but wanted to follow-up with a couple of questions if anyone would mind.

The voltage seems pretty steady most of the time now, and I don't get any light fluctuations etc. so that is okay. However, today I drove the car for a bit longer of a drive and noticed that the voltage does change at random times, but typically maintains a general amount between 12-14/15 volts. It sort-of "jumps" a little with the blinker still, not much and the blinker remains consistent, but it is odd. Is that okay?

Something else I noticed was that the idle seems to be a bit odd. When cold, it seems to stay up around 15k rpm and then drop around 10k rpm - but sometimes will drop a little lower. Finally, Once today after driving a while I cranked the car and it instantly dropped RPM and died... I re-cranked it and it was okay after that ... but that was weird to me. Any ideas there?

The A/C seems to have stopped working too (but that's a totally different post lol), and I believe that is unrelated.

So any ideas on this other stuff though? Is the idle normal? Last thing that I just thought about - when I was sitting idle, the temp rose pretty high *close* to red line, but went down with fan. I guess this is normal.

Anyway, any ideas on extra steps is appreciated!

 

I'm on my fifth third gen, if I remember correctly, all had a very small amount of voltage gauge bounce with blinkers on.

If you are still nervous about it, check all of your grounds, maybe add a new one, clean up the old grounds from battery to engine and frame.

Check the wires coming from your alternator. I had some issues on a different GM where the wire came loose from the connector and had lots of funny things with that, until i figured out the problem and put a new one in.

Good luck.

 

Hi Brett,

Thanks for the reply! I think everything is okay for now - it seems relatively steady and seems to be doing pretty good for now.

Thanks for the advice everyone!