Gotta brag~

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Apr 15, 2016 | 02:20 PM

#51

stephenscamaro

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Joined: Jan 2016

Posts: 129

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From: Hermiston, Oregon

Car: 1988 Camaro

Engine: 2.8 to 383

Transmission: 700r4

Axle/Gears: 3.42

Re: Gotta brag~

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tibo

Are you guys talking about my block? If so, I think you are noticing that I've had it machined to accept O rings. More common for boosting sbc. A properly done sleeve should almost be invisible. If they were that obvious to spot I'd want nothing to do with that block....

LOL I wasn't going to say anything rude when I initially thought it was sleeves. I was going to say I had never seen them done like that before

Would his mod be helpful for non-boosted engines?

Apr 15, 2016 | 05:25 PM

#52

Tibo

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Joined: Jun 2003

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From: Desert

Car: 1991 Z28 Vert

Engine: 383 single plane efi

Transmission: T-56

Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s

Re: Gotta brag~

Sure it would help for a non-boosted engine but it is totally unnecessary. Be akin to putting a full roll cage in a stock 300hp street car.

Apr 15, 2016 | 05:44 PM

#53

Tibo

Supreme Member

iTrader: (15)

Joined: Jun 2003

Posts: 5,028

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From: Desert

Car: 1991 Z28 Vert

Engine: 383 single plane efi

Transmission: T-56

Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s

Re: Gotta brag~

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireDemonSiC

I thought about that, however decided against the drilling. For what I'm doing, I found it unnecessary and just kept the mods basic. IE smoothing out the lifter valley, enlarging and radiusing drainbacks, .030 holes in the ghallery plugs. smoothed and ported the rear main cap and etc.

I used a Melling M55 standard volume pump with a 70psi relief spring. with 10w30 it holds around 25psi at idle woith a 180-200F oil temp.

I watched those videos when I was building my motor. Cool stuff they're doing, but the drilling wasn't really needed. My setup is hotter than what they built and I don't even need it.

M55 oil pump is all you need. Even using 5W-20 you'll still have ~25psi at idle. As an added point, there are several good articles advising for the use of 5W-20 for newly built engines.

Apr 20, 2016 | 11:11 AM

#54

stephenscamaro

Thread Starter

Member

Joined: Jan 2016

Posts: 129

Likes: 0

From: Hermiston, Oregon

Car: 1988 Camaro

Engine: 2.8 to 383

Transmission: 700r4

Axle/Gears: 3.42

Re: Gotta brag~

How far down should my pistons be in the bore if the deck was machined to 9.005?

Apr 20, 2016 | 12:57 PM

#55

MoJoe

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Joined: Jan 2009

Posts: 887

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From: Golden, CO

Car: 87 IROC

Engine: L31 350

Transmission: T56

Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44

Re: Gotta brag~

I didn't see in the thread if you are building a 350/355 or 383... The nominal height of crank+rods+piston in a SBC is 9.000" or 0.005" in the hole with a 9.005" deck height.
350: 3.480/2 = 1.740 + 5.700" rods + 1.560" compression height pistons = 9.000"
383: 3.750/2 = 1.875 + 5.700" rods + 1.425" pistons = 9.000"
383: 3.750/2 = 1.875 + 6.000" rods + 1.125" pistons = 9.000"

What pistons did you get? What are their compression height? Cheap rebuilder +0.030" "350" pistons are typically less than 1.560", open quench too far, drop compression, for a poor performing engine.