Looking to build a 350. Got a high nickel block, cast crank and connecting rods. Engine also came with a new gasket set with all new bearings and piston rings. I want to keep it stock bore as the bores are very good, and I have the new piston rings. Ideas for parts for the build i.e flat top pistons, heads, cam etc would be a big help! Thanks guys!

 

1996-00 chevy truck/suv/van Vortec 350 heads, used $150-300
$90 hyper flat top pistons http://www.competitionproducts.com/S.../#.V3ybw9QrLDc
$103 cam/lifter set http://www.competitionproducts.com/E.../#.V3ycldQrLDc
$30 valve springs http://www.competitionproducts.com/H.../#.V3yfFNQrLDc
$20 timing chain http://www.competitionproducts.com/C.../#.V3ycyNQrLDc
$27 oil pump http://www.competitionproducts.com/M.../#.V3ydu9QrLDc
$103 vortec style intake http://www.competitionproducts.com/P.../#.V3yd-9QrLDc
$58 Fel pro MS98000TS vortec intake gaskets

With headers and a 600 cfm carb that will make about 300 HP

 

I strongly suggest staying away from flat tappet camshafts these days, since all the auto manufacturers have switched over to roller camshafts the EPA mandated that zinc be removed from engine oils used in automotive gasoline engines. The zinc was important for the livelihood of a flat tappet camshaft, especially the successful break in of one; many flat tappet cams wipe out a lobe before the engine is even broke in good, even when doing the break in by the book. Wipe out a cam lobe and all that metal gets into the engine bearings and usually cause the engine bearings to wipe out as well.

You can buy a zinc additive and use it in your oil, but it's something you will have to monitor the lifetime of the engine; again, especially during camshaft break in. It makes more sense to me to simply use a late enough year block to go with a roller camshaft and not have to worry about it period.

 

Only bad thing about the newer style 350 blocks is they do not have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump. Myself I like to use a mechanical fuel pump instead of a electric one on a carbed engine because its much easier to replace and safer in my opinion. Millions of chevy 350s are still running up and down the road with flat tappet cams. All truck L05 engines had them and many have held up for 3-400k miles. Use a lil zinc additive and you are fine. Of course roller is better, no doubt for many reasons. But for someone on a budget, a flat tappet cam is fine. Out of dozens ive watched my dad and uncles build I have never seen one wipe out a lobe. Main thing is breaking it in properly.

 

I'm looking to get a hydrolic roller.

 

Well is the block a one or two piece rear main seal? Is it a roller or flat tappet cam block? Usually the term "High nickel" blocks are associated with two piece rear main seal flat tappet cam blocks from at least 30 years ago.

 

2 piece rear main seal, it's a flat tappet cam. The motor was pulled from an early 70's motor home.

I'm gonna be sending the block out for honing here in a few weeks then I can get my piston situation figured out. I want to go with the hydrolic roller just for reliability and everyday use. It's going to be a daily driver/hot rod for the spring/summer of the year. The crank is out being turned cause the guy that had it before me removed one piston and marked the crank good with the rod bolt. Probably going to be turned down at least .020....

 

If it's a flat tappet cam it's going to cost you a bit for a conversion, several hundred. I personally have never done a conversion because of the availability of roller cam blocks so I'm not the official source but I thought you had to use retrofit roller lifters, a retrofit roller cam, a different cam retaining plate and you would also need something that replaces that spider that keeps the lifter plates in place. If you want a roller cam you might be better off getting a new block.

 

One of the companies makes an off road racing oil called ZRod. I believe it's amsoil or valvoline. Napa carries it. This is the stuff you use with a flat tappet cam. Studies show that the zinc additive in a bottle isn't all that great.

And no additive will kill those cam lobes in no time.

 

Definitely get a roller block.It's easier and cheaper than retro fitting an older block.

 

Hey guys, I am thinking on going for a hydraulic flat tappet.

Also, my bores are very clean, would there be a benefit to buying a stroker kit and not boring the block out just honing it?

 

NO.
"Stroker" and "Budget" do not belong in the same sentence.
Factory cast cranks are better quality then cheaper (aka aftermarket cast) stroker cranks.

 

Alright. Just wondering.

I have been considering this kit
https://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/inde..._detail&p=5729

And buying one of these cranks because mine is going to cost to much to grind

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...erm=crankshaft

Any thoughts?

 

Hey guys I scrapped the build. And bought a mildly built 350 off a buddy of mine. Bored .030 over, 882 with a valve job milled, Holley d.p, headers and a mild cam. Pulled running for $1000 maybe 5000k on it. Looking to see what the easiest way to make a bit more power out of it is. He estimated it at about 320hp.

 

New heads and intake. Those heads are terrible. Pick up set of used vortecs and the intake to go with it if you want to stay "budget". Aftermarket heads if not. If it was me, I'd swap the cam too since you'll already be halfway there during the head swap. After that, headers and a good exhaust if you don't already have them.

Oh, and not trying to knock your buddy, but that engine is more like 220hp with those heads.

 

882 heads are not that good, they came on my car when I bought it. The best thing I ever did for power was swap heads. I gained power in every RPM range as well as a more duration friendly compression.

If you are looking for a higher zinc oil try Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic has a minimum of 1200ppm of zinc according to shell. So far none of my lifters have any wear after about 6 years

Roller is better I would have probably saved for it but the previous owner of the car installed this cam and had the 350 bored 30 over. If it wipes out I will probably rebuild into a roller block. Although there are millions of flat tappet cams running just fine.