Fixed all broken hoses/leaks I could find and tried unplugging the MAF too, no luck. Something interesting is today the car would act like it was still in clear flood mode after releasing the pedal, even after turning the car off and waiting it would still take a try or two for the injectors to fire again.

The car won't respond to any throttle either, if I try opening it up to keep the car running it'll just die right out. If it means anything the tach slowly rises while cranking, or usually will just peg all the way to 70 if she feels like starting right up.

I'm running out of things to check here...What do you guys think?

 

I'm wondering if the tps is bad. You can check the grey wire key on it should be about 5v.
The blue wire should be about .54 v. If you have the key on and have a bolt meter on the blue wire and slowly move the throttle open voltage should steadily increase. If voltage drops off a dead spot or it's not rising the tps is bad.

 

man this is getting out of hand.

can someone help this bloke out with a working ecm to throw in this thing just to eliminate the possibility of this thing being braindead?

the body may be willing but the brain could be stuffed?

this is why i have a carb...

 

Haha I was worried somebody would say ECM, if TPS tests good then I guess that's my next course of action....

 

with all the weird electrical/gauge readings,...is it possible to mix up the tach and "+" power to distributor wires on this motor/cap?

 

I was thinking the same thing. I wondering if that's why someone left it sit for so long.iirc 1227302 ecm

 

Has the fuel pressure been checked yet?

RBob.

 

Hey guys good news, there was an error on my part and I still had a vacuum line broken from the switch to the regulator, the plastic nub on the regulator where the line clips on is broken off so it's not perfect but fixed as best as I could for now.

Tach wasn't acting as strange, will peg to 0 with key on, slowly rise while cranking, and float between 15-20 with key off. Temp gauge will peg itself while cranking too.

Car was doing it's usual start-flood thing, until I realized I left the MAF unplugged from testing yesterday and plugged it back in. the car fired and ran GREAT for a few seconds before dying again. Darn!

After that I'm not going to point fingers at the ECM just yet, could this be MAF related?
Thanks guys

 

Surely there must be junkyards with hundreds of these cars in them. go hunting for an ECM

Wreckers in Australia are almost extinct these days which is a shame because Holdens use a lot of the same parts. sigh...

 

I found a good deal on an ECM so I'm going to go that way. I'm 88% sure it's toast. Injectors will not keep running (and now occasionally don't even prime), tach slowly rises to 70 if you leave the key in ON, fuel pump will not prime/run even with relay, oil pressure switch and all fuses good, and the worst offender: I tried pulling trouble codes today and couldn't even get a code 12!


Will keep posted......

 

The fact you couldn't get code 12 is a good indicator of a bad ecm. Unless the fuse is blown next to the battery.

 

At least you know that if it is the ECM, that 99% of the crap you would usually have to do with an old car will be done already...

 

Car is going to be the death of me, I got a good ECM and installed it today, I'm still having all the same issues. Car dies, no fuel pump, no SES light or code 12, no buzzer when you turn the ignition to on. My blinkers also are dead

Checked all fuses and the ECM one in the fuse box is showing a good 11.54 volts...What else could possibly be wrong???

 

I'd check all the power and grounds for the ecm



Next to the ecm should be a connecter that you may want to check too c207
From 87 maybe the same as 88 not sure.

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport..._1987_C207.gif

 

B1,a6,c16 all hot with the key on

 

Thanks so much for all the info TP! I'm going to go through all that tomorrow! As much as this car wants me to I'm not giving up just yet :P

 

why does dead blinkers and a dead buzzer sound vaguely familiar...

 

oooooooh, in the convenience centre! thats where your flashers live (2 of them). i had to ghetto a solution onto mine on the roadside once.

There seems to be a lot of wiring hooked up in series on these cars (daisychained if you will) and i had a stupid issue where there were no blinkers, no dash lights, no SES light, no start etc

Some piece of wiring had fried somewhere along the line and was not providing power to one side of the flasher unit. by applying power to that side independently (ran a ghetto 12v line from somewhere else and applied power to it, i suddenly had all my dash, gauges, blinkers and SES light back on. \

I thought that would be the end of it, but by that line of power being cut, several power sources into the fuse box also were cut which involved a serious amount of creative electrical work.

test light, fuses, wire and blade terminals - happy hunting

i really hope this this doesnt beat you

 

I feel like an idiot for not checking this stuff earlier, but after going through some wiring diagrams I've had to fix some of the PO's "custom wiring". It turns out while the fuse next to the battery was good, it wasn't even getting power. My positive battery cable was missing the wire that routes it to the junction box that sends power to the fan, fuse, etc. Now I've got 12v to both my ECM and fuel pump relay! Only issue is, still no SES on key ON or fuel pump action. I'm gonna try checking this ECM for codes and if that doesn't work, swap back in my original ECM.

It looks like what happened was the fusible link to the fan failed, and the PO wired it so if you connect one wire to negative and one to the positive, the fan will fire up. Does this need to be connected to the battery too? Something interesting is the fuse is getting power if you run the multimeter from the red wire to the battery's negative, but if you run the red wire to the orange wire, there's no current, regardless of whether key is on/off. Same applies to the fuse next to it.

Thanks guys!

 

Great news, look back at Post 10 for testing your fuel pump relay and ECM signal.
The fan hot wire goes to the fan relay . sounds like part of that circuit is faulty as well.


I think the hot at all times fusible link is hooked to the starter for the fan relay.

If you're referring to the orange wire on the other side of the oil pressure switch, this will not have power until the engine is cranking and oil pressure reaches at least four psi. If you jump or the switch connections the fuel pump would run all the time.

 

SHE'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm literally shaken, turned out I had two orange wires swapped around at the relay terminal i replaced, swapped them and SHE RAN LIKE A TOP! About time!

Only issue now is she's having a really high idle, but hey she's come a long way! I knew she could do it!

 

thats F****** awesome man - well done