Since I'm having no luck finding a 2 bolt 1 piece seal roller block(was looking to machine one for splayed caps) figured I'd ask for anyone with experience. First, my goal for this engine... Bulletproof bottom with a setup capable of 12's on the motor. Don't wanna spend the money for a stroker, wanna stay with a bored 350. Then wanna do direct injection nitrous. Just "enough" to go 10's. I'm not going bracket racing on the weekends. Not going to Oklahoma to be on street outlaws. Just wanna go to the track once or twice a year with a stock looking car and have people dropping their jaws, lol. Anyway, will a studded regular 4 bolt block be OK for what i want? 350 TBI truck motors are a dime a dozen.

 

A studded 2 bolt block will be ok.

 

I figure it'll take about 6-650 HP to do what I want. I know you know your stuff, but just a studded 2 bolt? I'm not on that much of a budget that I don't mind finding a 4 bolt block. That being said I'll pick up a truck motor just for a little extra piece of mind. Thanks!

 

Remember that part of how much power it will take depends upon the machine work, tolerances, material of the parts used, RPM it spins to to make that power as well as the AFR and ignition. Basically you would want to build the engine to where the block itself was the weak link.

 

http://www.competitionproducts.com/S...artments/1224/

Have you ever checked out this place? In the long run, this could save you a lot of BS.
Be sure to check out the BROOM SHEET - Clearances section. Super deals sometimes.

 

A bone stock 2-bolt bottom end can handle enough power to easily put an F-body into the 10's. A tiny nitrous shot if needed will be safer than spinning it to high revs NA to make the same power.

 

Yup a 2 bolt studded would do it

But if you can find a regular late roller 4 bolt i would do that

My gm block 4 bolt made 400 whp all motor, ran 11.40's and i sprayed 150 to run 10.63. I would feel safe to 700-750 hp on a 4 bolt studded on spray. More on turbo

 

I'm saying even 2-bolt BOLTED caps will suffice for this application.
If you want to put more beef into it, no harm in that of course. Studding it is cheap and you might want that piece of mind when your 10-sec goal becomes a LOW 10-sec goal
I ran an ARP-bolted (not studded) rebuilt 2-bolt bottom end for 6 seasons of drag racing pushing a B-body into the high tens, and occasionally a 100-shot getting it down to 10.3's. Spinning it to 7000-7100 on the shifts. I'm not recommending you rev it that high; I had evidence of cap walk and non-symmetrical bearing wear, but mine was an experiment .
The bottom end configuration requirement (2-bolt, 2-stud, factory 4-bolt, splayed 4-bolt/stud) is more dictated by what rpm you intend to spin it to than by a mild N2O shot required to put you into the 10's. Stick to 6500 rpm shift points, and the as-built factory bottom end will be fine.

 

If its going to machine shop, might as well go studs imo

 

You could see how much they would charge for splayed mains and O rings. However the link NoEmissions posted has a good deal for that all forged 350 sbc.

 

Thanks guys! Think like I said I'll pick up a truck block this winter just for that little extra piece of mind. Unless... Just out of curiosity, if I could find one, would a zz4 short block suffice? They come up occasionally, and I'm really bummed I let mine go a few years back for only 1500. Not looking to go low budget, but don't wanna spend more than necessary.

 

Yes, a ZZ4 short block would be perfectly fine for your stated goals.

 

We use a GM 010 4 bolt studded. Engine is very beefed up with the best rods and all that jazz I'll spare the details though. We spin it 8500 all day at the track for years.