Hey guys, I'm going to be replacing my oil pan and I wanted to leave the engine in the body, but I'm having little luck with this process. I've got the engine about three inches up in the compartment, and that's as far as she'll go. Now I can't jimmy the old oil pan out of there. I don't want to pull the engine for such a simple procedure (I only wanted to weld the pickup back onto the oil pump) and I was wondering if I could just pull the bellhousing and transmission to slide the oil pan out.

Now here's the question: how do I get to the bolts on top of the bellhousing? I can't see any way of reaching them, but I know it can be done because the transmission shop did it. How do you guys do it? Do you use some funky extension with universal joints? The Haynes manual says the only way to reach them with the engine in the car is to cut holes in the floorboard, which I think is horse crap.

Please help guys, and thanks in advance!!!

 

to get the top trans bolts i use a very long extension, like 30" or so and a universal impact socket, either deep or standard depending if they're studs or bolts and use a impact wrench. if i were removing the oil pan i'd pull the engine.

 

Easiest way to get them is to take them out first: i.e. set the motor back down, take out the distributor if you haven't already, and use a short 9/16" combo wrench from above before you take out the ones lower down.

 

RB83L69 is right..

you have to take out the distributor, the best way to hit the top bellhousing bolts is from up top..

unbolt the motor mounts and jack on the front of the engine..

you will have trouble getting the motor high enough but you can 'just' get the oil pan gasket past the bottom of the dipstick tube..

i ended up doing this on my '87 IROC and it 'is' possible but it's a bitch..

oh, one more thing, it will be easier to jack up if you unbolt the transmission mount (make sure you do this on a level surface or you'll end up having the motor and trans slide forward about an inch, HARD ot get it back )

make sure you wipe ALL surfaces with gas or carb cleaner or some type of solvent

you should be able to do the job in about 3-5 hours if you take your time and clean all your parts (like i did)

DISCLAIMER: if you use gas and turn yourself into a flaming bomb because you're too stupid to smoke or light a match when doing it, don't come to GMPerformance.org and demand compensation

 

another DISCLAIMER: you should know better than to jack on the harmonic balancer so don't do it!

jack on the corners of the block or use an engine lift and lift on the engine

 

Thanks for the help, guys! Colin, one note however... I'm not pulling the pan just to change the gasket, I'm going to have to pull the pump and weld on the pickup.

I've decided, after looking at it some more today, to just go ahead and pull the engine out. No more muss or fuss. If I can find another car in the next week or so, I'll scrap this block and start a new project... maybe a 427. This block doesn't have much potential left in it anyway. 2 bolt mains and already bored 60 over, plus stock heads with low compression. Besides, I already wanted a new project and this just gives me an excuse.

 

my bad, I didn't notice that

sounds like you need a 502 in that baby hehe..

later man