personal experiences
personal experiences
with running a full modern synthetic oil in flat tappet engines?
everyone says do this dont add that , add that, no dont etc.
lets just hear some personal stories so i can make my decision
half say you need to add zinc to modern oils or run rotella and the other half say running synthetic is fine.
any stories? i currently got castrol edge 10w 30 in my z28 .
everyone says do this dont add that , add that, no dont etc.
lets just hear some personal stories so i can make my decision
half say you need to add zinc to modern oils or run rotella and the other half say running synthetic is fine.
any stories? i currently got castrol edge 10w 30 in my z28 .
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Re: personal experiences
If running synthetic oil in a flat tappet engine was bad, there would be a warning on the oil bottles. Just think of trouble it would cause for the oil brand if an oil harmed an engine. Not all engines use roller cams. That makes them more expensive to build.
Zinc in oil has been greatly reduced but that doesn't mean it's still a necessity. There are a lot of more modern additives that can still do the job. The quality of modern oil is also a lot better than what it used to be.
I know racers who will run the cheapest Walmart oil they can get and it does the job just fine.
Every oil in my race car is synthetic but that's just personal preference.
Zinc in oil has been greatly reduced but that doesn't mean it's still a necessity. There are a lot of more modern additives that can still do the job. The quality of modern oil is also a lot better than what it used to be.
I know racers who will run the cheapest Walmart oil they can get and it does the job just fine.
Every oil in my race car is synthetic but that's just personal preference.
Re: personal experiences
If running synthetic oil in a flat tappet engine was bad, there would be a warning on the oil bottles. Just think of trouble it would cause for the oil brand if an oil harmed an engine. Not all engines use roller cams. That makes them more expensive to build.
Zinc in oil has been greatly reduced but that doesn't mean it's still a necessity. There are a lot of more modern additives that can still do the job. The quality of modern oil is also a lot better than what it used to be.
I know racers who will run the cheapest Walmart oil they can get and it does the job just fine.
Every oil in my race car is synthetic but that's just personal preference.
Zinc in oil has been greatly reduced but that doesn't mean it's still a necessity. There are a lot of more modern additives that can still do the job. The quality of modern oil is also a lot better than what it used to be.
I know racers who will run the cheapest Walmart oil they can get and it does the job just fine.
Every oil in my race car is synthetic but that's just personal preference.
and good point!
Re: personal experiences
And again like I recently said in another "which oil is best" thread , the whole synthetic VS conventional "debate" comes down to one of personal choice , the whole "Ginger VS MaryAnn" thing . Pick whichever ya like and keep the ol dipstick clean .
Oil that's low on level and high on dirt ruins engines , no matter what bottle or can the oil comes from ....
Oil that's low on level and high on dirt ruins engines , no matter what bottle or can the oil comes from ....
Re: personal experiences
You all may find this interesting. Some do. Like me. Some don't. And they probably haven't read it because of it's length.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
It's a bit of a read but will give you some insight into what's available.
A shortcut to the end reveals that additives (like zinc) are not necessary if a quality oil is selected in the first place. What's more is that any additive could take a decent oil and ruin it due to incompatibility between the two.
My choice: Quaker State Ultimate Durability full synthetic. It's also recommended that the lowest cold viscosity and the lowest hot viscosity value should be used that will still maintain adequate hot engine oil pressure. A properly built and maintained hot rod engine generally falls into the 5W30 category.
Again, no additive.
I would scroll through the list and find where your Castrol Edge 10w30 lies.
EDIT: I just skimmed over the paper and found it's recently been updated. And for what it's worth, I only concern myself with the first 10 entries or so. That part of the list has a couple of additions that broaden my choices somewhat.
However it is interesting to see where some of "big name" oils end up on this list.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
It's a bit of a read but will give you some insight into what's available.
A shortcut to the end reveals that additives (like zinc) are not necessary if a quality oil is selected in the first place. What's more is that any additive could take a decent oil and ruin it due to incompatibility between the two.
My choice: Quaker State Ultimate Durability full synthetic. It's also recommended that the lowest cold viscosity and the lowest hot viscosity value should be used that will still maintain adequate hot engine oil pressure. A properly built and maintained hot rod engine generally falls into the 5W30 category.
Again, no additive.
I would scroll through the list and find where your Castrol Edge 10w30 lies.
EDIT: I just skimmed over the paper and found it's recently been updated. And for what it's worth, I only concern myself with the first 10 entries or so. That part of the list has a couple of additions that broaden my choices somewhat.
However it is interesting to see where some of "big name" oils end up on this list.
Last edited by skinny z; Apr 14, 2018 at 10:10 AM.
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