I've got about 1000 (maybe) on my new 383. All aftermarket parts. Lunati roller retrofit kit, cam, pushrods, with Comp gold rockers on RHS heads. All parts were researched, measured, and measured again. Most lash setting procedures were fairly similar and they were set accordingly. ....and the engine runs perfectly.

Now....in the car and not on a convenient engine stand, I'm wondering what the proper procedure is for checking/tightening/adjusting? Do I have to basically start from scratch, rolling the engine over for each cylinder etc. etc., or is there an old mechanics method of how to check 'em and make sure all is good?

I found setting these full roller rockers, with the polylocks etc etc. to be a far less intuitive product to properly set as opposed to good ole stamped GM rockers. Took a good bit longer. For ME anyhow.

 

In the car, easiest way to set em is with the engine running. Back em off, one at a time, until they start to tick; tighten back up until it just quits; do all 16 as fast as possible; shut down; add your desired preload. ½ turn is a usual and customary amount for a street motor (i.e. intended to run many miles w/o further attention, not determined by any particular "performance" objective).

But if you're happy with the way it runs, it's not "necessary"; just, you might find that it runs EVEN BETTER, more specifically, smoother and more perfectly the same on all cyls.

With poly-locks, they WILL NOT stay permanently adjusted if you merely tighten the set screw with an Allen. Instead, tighten both the screw and the nut TOGETHER. This locks them in place MUCH more effectively. Be careful though, it's easy to split them at the threads, if you get carried away. With solid cams I got real used to doing this: I'd estimate about 12 - 15 ft-lbs on a 5/8" box-end wrench, along with the Allen key moving at the same time.

 

Thanks sofa for confirming the way I have been tightening my poly-locks.
Abubaca, to use poly-locks, the tops of your rocker studs must be flat so that the set screw can do it's job properly.
Some cheaper studs have a "snapped off" look to them, like a cheap import bolt.
This stud will work for a stock friction nut, but not a poly-lock.

 

That method of tightening is what I did. It's been over a year, and it was the first time I'd ever done it, but the final tightening after zero lash was something like 90 degrees (1/4 turn) of both the lock and the nut. Maybe it was 180, I don't remember, but the amount of turn was estimated to be a relative amount of intended torque, per the video I was watching. Again, I don't remember what it was exactly.

So do you guys think it NEEDS to be adjusted? I'm seeing no signs of chatter or anything, I'm just going through and doing my due diligence.

 

If it RUNS good, is IS good.

(which is not to imply that it can't run BETTER; only to say, if it doesn't "need" it, ... it doesn't "need" it)

New cars off the showroom floor with hydraulic lifters and adjustable rockers don't/didn't "need" readjustment. Nor for that matter did/do all the others with non-adjustable systems. (Pontiac, Olds, Buick, LSx, various Frod, later-model BBC, etc.) A well-built rebuild shouldn't either.

 

Thanks

 

As long as you set them all the same and are having no problems, leave it alone.
You did it right, stop second guessing yourself.