stock intake manifold 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI
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Car: 1987 Chevy Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
stock intake manifold 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI
Hey, Anyone know what the stock intake manifold is for a 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI? or a good OEM replacement? I have to replace mine in a week or two. Not sure what the best option is. I guess I would like the stock one or a OEM just to make things a bit easier. also is there a how to list in here anywhere that details the best way for replacement and tools needed. Not real necessary the main thing is which manifold part to buy. I have the manual which details the how to but I have found that the Haynes manuals are lacking a bit. Thanks alot!
#2
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Re: stock intake manifold 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI
Why do you need to replace your existing manifold? It's not like they generally go bad. And are you talking about the base? Runners? Plenum? All of the above?
Pretty sure (without looking) that all the OEM parts are discontinued. The aftermarket doesn't really offer any TPI specific parts anymore either. Kinda leaves you with used parts, which brings us back to what's wrong with the used parts you have now?
Pretty sure (without looking) that all the OEM parts are discontinued. The aftermarket doesn't really offer any TPI specific parts anymore either. Kinda leaves you with used parts, which brings us back to what's wrong with the used parts you have now?
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Car: 1987 Chevy Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Re: stock intake manifold 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI
I guess I probably dont have to replace it. Im pretty sure its just the gaskets. and yes its just the base. I figured as long as I took it apart I would replace it while Im at it. But yes you are right probably does not need to be replaced it. I just noticed that its pretty hard to find anything new. Guess it will just be gaskets thank you for your reply and advice!
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Re: stock intake manifold 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI
Get a good name brand set of Torx bits. Make sure your Torx bit fits the bolt head TIGHT, and that it's fully seated before trying to back the bolts out. Dig around a bit looking at pictures of where the bolts are, before you start. Each side of the runners has a bolt from the middle of the intake - out. It's not a big deal, a long extension will let you sneak in from the opposite side to remove them. Reach under the throttle body and feel around for the vacuum line, and disconnect it before you break the plastic vacuum tubes to it.
When you're ready to go back together, throw away the rubber end seals for the intake if they're included in the set. Use a bead of RTV across the front and rear. Make sure all your gasket surfaces are clean as you can get them. Get a cheap 3/8-16 bolt from your local hardware store, and cut a few slots perpendicular to the threads. Run this modded bolt in and out of all the intake bolt holes, like a tap, to clean out all the old goop. Clean the threads on all the old bolts. Use a wire brush, or get a cheap 3/8-16 nut at your hardware store, clamp it in a bench vice and run each of the bolts in and out to clean all the crud and old sealer out of the threads. Get yourself a small jar of teflon thread sealer from the auto parts store, and apply it liberally to each of the intake base bolts. Coat all the bolts that will thread into aluminum with anti-seize. Use a torque wrench.
It's really not all THAT difficult, but people tend to tear up the bolts or have vacuum leaks because they don't use the right tools. If you skip the thread sealer, you'll probably end up with oil or antifreeze on top of the intake.
When you're ready to go back together, throw away the rubber end seals for the intake if they're included in the set. Use a bead of RTV across the front and rear. Make sure all your gasket surfaces are clean as you can get them. Get a cheap 3/8-16 bolt from your local hardware store, and cut a few slots perpendicular to the threads. Run this modded bolt in and out of all the intake bolt holes, like a tap, to clean out all the old goop. Clean the threads on all the old bolts. Use a wire brush, or get a cheap 3/8-16 nut at your hardware store, clamp it in a bench vice and run each of the bolts in and out to clean all the crud and old sealer out of the threads. Get yourself a small jar of teflon thread sealer from the auto parts store, and apply it liberally to each of the intake base bolts. Coat all the bolts that will thread into aluminum with anti-seize. Use a torque wrench.
It's really not all THAT difficult, but people tend to tear up the bolts or have vacuum leaks because they don't use the right tools. If you skip the thread sealer, you'll probably end up with oil or antifreeze on top of the intake.
#5
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Re: stock intake manifold 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI
Darn, missed a few things... Track down the O-rings for the fuel line connections to the fuel rail before you start. Make sure your gasket set has enough O-rings to do both ends of all the injectors, most sets only include enough for one end. Lubricate your O-rings, it's really annoying when you have to take it all apart because one O-ring got cut and is leaking.
You may want to change the thermostat while you're in there, the gasket usually isn't in the TPI intake set. It might be a good time to change the O-rings between all the tubes and rails in the fuel rail assembly, but it probably doesn't NEED to be done.
You may want to change the thermostat while you're in there, the gasket usually isn't in the TPI intake set. It might be a good time to change the O-rings between all the tubes and rails in the fuel rail assembly, but it probably doesn't NEED to be done.
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Car: 1987 Chevy Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Re: stock intake manifold 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI
Awesome thank you I will do all of this. I picked up the Fel Pro gasket set that includes everything and the O rings. I'm going to do it this Friday.
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#8
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Re: stock intake manifold 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI
Once you've got the original intake removed,..... flip it over and check for any excessive pitting around the coolant "ports". The "ports" are not used ( factory blocked ) at the back of the intake and I've seen many over the years that have had some nasty pitting in this area. Also be sure to chck the thermostat sealing area for the same problem.....
It the pitting is bad,... there could/will be a sealing problem now - or in the near future. Not tryin' to scare you, just that IMO it's better to install the best intake you can while you've got everything already taken apart !
It the pitting is bad,... there could/will be a sealing problem now - or in the near future. Not tryin' to scare you, just that IMO it's better to install the best intake you can while you've got everything already taken apart !
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Car: 1987 Chevy Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Re: stock intake manifold 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI
Thank you. I will look it over good. I did the thermostat last year and that was good.
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Car: 1987 Chevy Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Re: stock intake manifold 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI
Wow what a pain in the ***! I have had this car 23 years. Someone must have had the throttle body off before. 3 different size bolt heads? 2 of the torx bolts were seized on the throttle body. Had to cut the head off one with a dremel slice a notch in it then unscrew it. The 2nd one is the 1st one on the passenger side, can't get it with a dremel so I'm going to have to drill it out its down between the 3 pipes off the throttle body. Anyhow everything else is disconnected just have to drill out that bolt then it all should go fine. going to finish tomorrow
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Car: 1987 Chevy Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Re: stock intake manifold 87 IrocZ 5.0 305 TPI
I totally forgot to update this post. I did finish the job a couple weeks ago. All went great. Took my time and did it over 3 days. cleaned every part after taking it out. Yes the gaskets were totally shot. The only problems I had were seized bolts. one had to be tapped out. Other than that a little time consuming but not real bad. Runs fantastic now!
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