Ebay

I have heard its a Ford pattern too. Still a dumb pattern to use given they use the same pattern on the LS intakes they make and try to market. Knowing some guys are going to put them on LS applications using the stock throttle body. Its a dumb over sight on their part and costs them sales.

 

Yeah I agree its dumb. I have a ls to ford adapter on my wilson elbow lol

i cant seem to find that intake. Do you know who was the seller?

 

I bought the last one the Ebay seller had.

Just saw these popped up even cheaper on Amazon.

 

I am going to have to build a compressor relocation bracket setup.

 

Just felt like updating this post. Since the heads came off and I replaced the JEGS head bolt set that had 4 broken bolts with ARP studs, I have been driving the thing as a daily. It has a set of noisy LS7 lifters in it and I have been running 1.6 rockers on the intake and 1.5 rockers on the exhaust. The Rhoads V-Max lifters pushed the IVC a bit early for the compression ratio and small 218/228 cam on a 108 LSA. Currently running the L31 marine cross ram manifold that I did some port work to.

I have a custom grind cam for it and a set of Lunati lifters that I believe are made by Morel. The cam is an Erson that Lloyd Elliot and I speced together. It is like 272 @ 0.006, 219/219 @ 0.050 on a 112 LSA and 0.544 lift with 1.6s. I am going to advance it to a 108 ICL when it goes in. I am planning to put an Indmar L31 marine manifold on it when I have it apart. The Indmar manifold is kind of like a tunnel ram, has a massive plenum and will have a Fitech 92mm 4 bolt LS throttle body on it.

I have been too busy with other things to pull it apart and it is difficult to pull apart an engine that runs as well as this one does even if the lifters are a bit loud. I ran the van across a CAT scale and it is 6,940 lbs with a full tank of fuel and me in the driver seat. Longer term I plan to convert to 58x engine management so that I can swap in a 6L90E. With the current 3.73 rear gear it could really benifit from that 4.03 1st gear in the 6L90E, compared to the 2.48 1st of the 4L85E. 2nd gear in the 6L90E is similar to 1st in the 4L85E.





It gets all the beans occassionally and runs out nicely. This is on 93 pump gas, it is noticeably stronger on E85. Not many E85 stations where I have been driving lately though. While it makes power to 6,200, I only spin it ~5,500 rpm for longevity.



Still gets worked a bit too. This was towing a 7,000 lbs tandem axle enclosed trailer loaded to the roof when I moved my mother earlier this summer. It has plenty of power for towing which is what I built it for. I ended up having to ditch the electric fans and put a clutch fan back on it. Duramax fan blade with a Trailblazer PCM controlled EV clutch. The P59 controls the EV clutch as needed, saving power and fuel when it is not needed. The PCM will engage the fan clutch in response to ac pressure and engine or transmission temperature, keeping all the vitals where they need to run. Very important piece of the puzzle when you are running a high compression engine for a tow rig in the heat of Texas summer. The fan noise makes it sound like the engine is screaming, but it is only in 3rd with the torque converter locked, turning ~3,000 rpm on that climb.

 

Just an update on this engine. I have upgraded it to 24x ignition, changed the cam to an Erson 219/219 @ 0.050 on a 112 LSA roller and the intake manifold to an Indmar MCX with a drive by wire 90mm LS3 throttle body. It is still alive and kicking, running stronger than ever. There are times I wish it did not have a ~7,000 lbs brick wrapped around it feeding power through a dang 1-ton truck driveline though. It would FLY in a 3,000 lbs car especially with a cam that raised its peak HP up to about 6,200-6,500 rpm. Still only spinning it like 5,600-5,700. It still has more in it off the line even with the 3.73 gear in it but it really needs a locking differential for me to really unleash it as it just spins the right rear effortlessly if I do not use the PE delay and some WOT timing removed under 3,000 rpm.

 

I've forgotten the details of this 383 (but I do recall there were many).
Heads in particular. I see the new cam specs.
Where do you suppose peak HP RPM occurs? Peak TQ RPM?

EDIT. I see where you indicate that peak HP is at 6000+. That's with the 219 (@.050") cam?
FTR: My 357 with 232/236/108 LSA in on a 104 ICL makes peak HP at 6200. Flat to 6500. (10.25:1 with 34° timing)
I never could get a 383 to go that far with that cam spec. I was working through the iterations with various software and always ended up with a "tow truck" engine, as it was described to me!
By the way, that thing sounds pretty good. I'm sure it surprises more than few folks when you get the lane you want on the highway.!

 

It probably makes peak TQ about 3,300-3,500 rpm and peak HP about 5,500ish with the 219/219 cam. The dynamic cylinder air peaks about 3,300-3,500 which is indicative of peak VE and the maximum airflow through the MAF peaks about 5,500. I was saying that I feel like the rest of the setup would love a cam that carried more RPM in something lighter.

I think it does surprise a few people. Generally though it is the ones that want to cruise along at 10-15 mph under the speed limit on a 2-lane highway and then suddenly they are flooring it when a passing area opens up to try to keep you passing them. I do not play around with that foolishness. I am already hammer down and coming around.

I am running a dual 3" to single 4" exhaust on it with a Howe Racing Merge Y and a 30" long AP truck muffler now. Ended up having a fairly aggressive tone at WOT. That being said just cruising along it is not very noticeable inside. The factory van air cleaner housing has a more noticeable drone than the exhaust. It spins right at 2,200 @ 70 mph.

I had a lot of people telling me this engine would not make any torque because of tunnel ram style intake, the 210cc head ports, the single pattern 112 LSA cam grind and the dual 3" to single 4" exhaust. Could not be farther from the truth. Even running ~1,600 rpm @ 50 mph, it just looks at 5-6% grade and laughs while it loafs up it in overdrive with the torque converter locked. Rolling 50+ it rarely leaves lean cruise at 16.5-17.5:1 AFR. It was in lean cruise this whole video.

https://youtu.be/R5iUgeWADuA?si=iICCxOk1gqBkwTVs

 

I am running Mercury Marine IGN-1A coils on it with 0.070" gapped plugs. I have actually had it accidentally as lean as 18.5-19:1 misfire free. Those coils are not joking around, each bank is fed by a 40 amp relay and 40 amp fuse. At full load I am only feeding them about 6 msec dwell where they draw ~10 amps each at 13.3 volts but they are capable of substantially more dwell and spark energy output than I am currently using.

 

I forgot to mention this engine is about to see one last change. The Morel sourced Lunati hydraulic roller lifters in this are JUNK. They have always been noisy and seem to bleed off. Occasionally bleeding off so much that I get some misfiring and lifter tapping on startup. Well that is about to change. Found a set of NOS Crane 10510-16 long travel solid roller lifters that were built for the OE lifter dog bone setup and are long travel. For now I am going to run them tight lashed on the hydraulic roller cam. I will eventually have a solid roller profile cam ground on a steel core with an OE style step nose that is in the 224-228 @ 0.050 range, probably 110 LSA and 0.580-0.600 lift. A cam like that should maintain my low-midrange torque yet allow me to carry peak power out to 6,000-6,200ish and shift in the 6,500 rpm range.

 

And what do those lifters weigh?

 

Far less than an OE style roller lifter. The stock dog bone retention setup is also far better than the aftermarket retro-fit link bar crap durability wise.

I am also only looking at doing something like 268/274 @ 0.020, 226/228 @ 0.050, 0.580-0.600 lift as well, so nothing super high velocity. Where lifter weight is going to be a huge issue.

 

But I have a never used set of old Crane Cams link bar solid roller (Ultra Pro series 11542) - 205g for the pair.
Someday I would like to use them.


11552-16


superseded a couple of times 11552-16 11519-16 ?

 

Those look nice. I am just not a fan of the link bars on something that is going to run a bunch of street miles. The horizontal link bar looks better in that regard, but I have not used one yet. Some of the horizontal link bar are nice because they use springs under them to push the lifters out of the bores for an easy cam swap without pulling the intake.