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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Looking for some help on the best method, material and/or solvent to clean and prep the deck for head gasket replacement. My CAST IRON deck is pretty mucked up and hope to find the most effective process out there. Hoping for a disc or something i can attached to my drill or dremel. I've read so many DON'T DO THIS or DON'T DO THAT that I figured I'd come the TGO for the best answers... Thanks in Advance. PHOTO BELOW
Re: Best way to clean engine deck for new head gasket
Tape newspaper, cardboard, plastic, whatever all over the lifter gallery and the cylinders. Wipe things down with lacquer thinner then tape it all down.
Razor blade first; then some of the scouring pads on an angle grinder, GENTLY and CAREFULLY; then lacquer thinner; lather rinse repeat. A drill works OK but is harder to control. The 3M "Roloc" pads are terrific, readily available at the parts stores. just, BE CAREFUL.
Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL with the grinding pads. They're VERY effective, and will leave divots in your block if you get too enthusiastic. It only requires a quick "wipe" with that, then the thinner, then another even quicker "wipe", then the thinner, etc. You want to avoid what the body guys call a "thumbprint", where the material is eaten away. If you don't have one of those you can use hand sandpaper but it takes longer. Get the automotive kind that's cloth on the back, it sheds FAR less abrasive than yerbasic paper sandpaper does.
All of this of course applies to the heads as well, if you're doing it yourself. Check the heads for any sharp edges or angles; if they've ever been resurfaced for example, the "corner" where the deck meets the chamber will be VERY sharp, and sharp edges like that promote detonation because they can get red-hot and act like a glow plug.
Vacuum all the schmutz out of the cylinders... rotate the pistons to the top 2 at a time and vacuum around the edge of the piston THOROUGHLY.
If you have to leave it overnight after that, wipe a little oil on the deck and cyl walls, and cover it wit plastic sheet or a garbage bag or something.
When assembly time comes, lacquer thinner the deck, lay the gasket on (part # side up), lacquer thinner the heads, use the sealer I described on the bolt threads and underside of their heads.
In case you can't tell, I REALLY like lacquer thinner as the cleaning solvent... it leaves no residue, and eats through just about anything.
Did you ever identify why it had "zero" compression?
Re: Best way to clean engine deck for new head gasket
Wire wheel (not the wrapped ones, the "fluffy" looking ones, and a helper holding the shop vac works wonders. Scraping a block tends to get crap down in the water jackets and headbolt holes unless you're really careful. I don't have the patience.
But as mentioned, cover the lifter valley real well. I tape the edges of the piston/wall with painters tape. Vacuum when done.
Re: Best way to clean engine deck for new head gasket
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
Tape newspaper, cardboard, plastic, whatever all over the lifter gallery and the cylinders. Wipe things down with lacquer thinner then tape it all down.
Razor blade first; then some of the scouring pads on an angle grinder, GENTLY and CAREFULLY; then lacquer thinner; lather rinse repeat. A drill works OK but is harder to control. The 3M "Roloc" pads are terrific, readily available at the parts stores. just, BE CAREFUL.
Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL with the grinding pads. They're VERY effective, and will leave divots in your block if you get too enthusiastic. It only requires a quick "wipe" with that, then the thinner, then another even quicker "wipe", then the thinner, etc. You want to avoid what the body guys call a "thumbprint", where the material is eaten away. If you don't have one of those you can use hand sandpaper but it takes longer. Get the automotive kind that's cloth on the back, it sheds FAR less abrasive than yerbasic paper sandpaper does.
All of this of course applies to the heads as well, if you're doing it yourself. Check the heads for any sharp edges or angles; if they've ever been resurfaced for example, the "corner" where the deck meets the chamber will be VERY sharp, and sharp edges like that promote detonation because they can get red-hot and act like a glow plug.
Vacuum all the schmutz out of the cylinders... rotate the pistons to the top 2 at a time and vacuum around the edge of the piston THOROUGHLY.
If you have to leave it overnight after that, wipe a little oil on the deck and cyl walls, and cover it wit plastic sheet or a garbage bag or something.
When assembly time comes, lacquer thinner the deck, lay the gasket on (part # side up), lacquer thinner the heads, use the sealer I described on the bolt threads and underside of their heads.
In case you can't tell, I REALLY like lacquer thinner as the cleaning solvent... it leaves no residue, and eats through just about anything.
Did you ever identify why it had "zero" compression?
Thanks Sofa...no i haven't figured out out the ZERO compression yet. I ordered a better valve spring compressor last night. Got tired of dodging the flying springs and chasing down retainers etc, Figured while i wait for that to arrive i can prep the block for reassembly and check the lifters...
